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Blade for miter saw

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Forum topic by Rustic posted 1746 days ago 1390 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Rustic

3126 posts in 2193 days


1746 days ago

I have a 10 inch Ryobi compound miter saw. I am getting alot of tearout from the stock blade. The saw hasn’t been used all that much. My question is can I change the stock blade for a fine tooth blade? or is there a certain type of blade that I need to get?

Thanks

Rick

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI


12 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5367 posts in 1973 days


#1 posted 1746 days ago

Stock blades are notoriously poor. A good blade should improve the cut a lot. What to get depends on what you’ll be cutting and the finish you want. Generally 60T to 80T will do well. Assuming you start with a high quality blade (don’t bother with anything else), more teeth tends to mean a cleaner cut if all other parameters are equal (they’re not usually), but more teeth also means a more resistance to the saw, more strain, and a slower cut, so don’t think more teeth is automatically a free lunch but is a good start. You may hear that you need a low to negative hook angle for a miter saw blade….not true with a standard CMS, but true of a slider. Still, it’s best to stay with a moderate to low hook angle of roughly 10° or less, and avoid the 20° hook angles intended for general purpose and ripping blades.

The Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB blade is one of my favorites (~ $70). The Hi-ATB grind has the lowest amount of tearout of all grinds, but can also wear a bit faster…an excellent choice for fine finishing cuts in hardwoods, a poor choice for laminate flooring and non-ferrous metals. 5° hook, made in Italy, world class blade. The Forrest WWI is a very similar blade but tends to cost quite a bit more. Their 80T 010-080, and 010-280 are also an excellent choice and an even cleaner cut due to having more teeth, but I haven’t tried these personally.

The Freud LU79 (TK), LU80 Hi-ATB blades, and LU85 ATB blade are all excellent choices as well. They also offer the LU91 60T specifically for sliders, but is still a nice choice for a CMS. For less money you can get into a Freud Diablo thin kerf….not quite to the same level but still very good.

For less money yet, Holbren’s got a great deal on the Oshlun line. 80T, ATB grind, large C3 micrograin carbide, copper silencers and are surprisingly well made and good performers for ~ $30.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 2419 days


#2 posted 1746 days ago

Rick, I have replaced all my stock blades with Forrest blades. I have found that blades supplied with a tool are generally not the best blades to use. If they can cut corners somewhere it seems that the manufacturers are putting blades of less than sterling quality on their tools because they are cheaper. Certainly replacing it with a quality blade should improve your cut.

Another option you can do is to replace the insert in your saw and turn it into a zero clearance insert similar to replacing the throat plate in your table saw. This will help improve the quality of your cuts as well. The biggest problem of course is that doing bevel cutting will widen the kerf. But 90 percent of the cuts I make on my saw are done with the blade at 90 degrees.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View sry's profile

sry

146 posts in 2205 days


#3 posted 1746 days ago

I don’t have any specific blade recommendations (still using the stock dewalt blade that came with my saw)

Here’s how I solved my tearout problem:
1) Replaced the plastic insert in the table with a zero-clearance insert I made from 1/4” MDF
2) Double stick taped another piece of MDF on the fence

Not only has this eliminated tearout from my stock blade, but it’s amazingly easy to line up pieces without any lasers or anything.

View Rustic's profile

Rustic

3126 posts in 2193 days


#4 posted 1746 days ago

Thanks guys you are truely a wealth of information to a newbie on CMS.

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

View SteveMI's profile

SteveMI

845 posts in 1892 days


#5 posted 1746 days ago

Rick,

I have an older lower end Delta and found great improvement with going to a Diablo blade. Since it is mainly for 2×4 and getting boards to rough length I didn’t go beyond that grade.

Also, I found that my saw was coming down on very slight angle causing fuzz and tearout mostly on one side of the cut. Check to see if your issue is on both sides of the board you cut. If the tearout is on one side more than the other, check the blade alignment. I forget how I adjusted mine, but the cuts became much cleaner. After the alignment I just had to kiss the edge with a sanding block.

Steve.

View TheDane's profile

TheDane

3647 posts in 2260 days


#6 posted 1746 days ago

The right blade can make all of the difference in the world.

I had a lot of tear-out with my miter saw … I picked up a Freud 80-tooth thing kerf cut-off blade on sale ($48) at a local machine shop. Now my miter saw cuts clean and true.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Rustic's profile

Rustic

3126 posts in 2193 days


#7 posted 1746 days ago

Thanks again guys. I am going to try some things mentioned here and see how that works. Will keep ya posted.

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 1867 days


#8 posted 1746 days ago

The blade is the thing…as stated above….I only use forrest blades for fine work…..for junk ripping…and cutting…I switch back to the stock blades. For the price I haven’t seen anything cut as well…but don’t waste them if you are just cutting dimensional wood….if I worry about tear out on the crappy blades…I just run a piece of tape around where the cut is….or I tape on a piece of sacrifice scrap to the piece before cutting…works everytime.

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View grizzman's profile

grizzman

6775 posts in 1901 days


#9 posted 1746 days ago

i have a 80tooth frued on mine…works very well…but any good atb blade with carbide tips will be better then what your useing…...hows things in mich…use to live in johannesburg…and grand rapids and dearborn…loved mich as a kid…good luck with your new blade

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Rustic's profile

Rustic

3126 posts in 2193 days


#10 posted 1745 days ago

Things are goin here Grizzman. I was born and raised in Flint. Thanks

-- www.carvingandturningsbyrick.com, Rick Kruse, Grand Rapids, MI

View thecraftsman's profile

thecraftsman

9 posts in 1749 days


#11 posted 1745 days ago

I have found that some times the cheaper blades have a good carbide, but they are not sharpened properly or at all. I have taken what seems to be a bad blade and sharpen it with a diamond sharpener and been amazed on difference of the cuts. From the factory normally you will find a finer quality blade have a better cut out of the package than a cheap one. The expensive name brand blades believe they have one shot in making the customer happy. The big difference comes in how long the the blade with hold its edge. Cheap carbides will not last long, high quality carbides will last a long time especially on hard wood.
You may also want to put a stabilizer on your saw with install your blade. This keeps the vibration & flexing down on the blade. There are single and double stabilizers. I own both, but I have the double on my table saw and it helps out mostly on long rips and cross cuts. For finer cuts the more teeth the better the cross cut on any saw.
If you still get some tear out, you add a thin strip on the back side to give support to the good board.
Hope this helps you.

-- Eric, Illinois, www.wooddesignsbyeric.com

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2059 days


#12 posted 1745 days ago

I replaced the stock blade in my Crapsman 10” SCMS some time ago. I went with a Freud Avanti 80 tooth. I dont remember if its a neg hook blade or not. I do get very acceptable cuts in all materials and it was not an overly expensive blade. I believe I paid somewhere around $50 at the big box store.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

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