Can't cut walnut

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Forum topic by hunter82 posted 10-12-2009 02:34 PM 1548 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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12 posts in 3919 days

10-12-2009 02:34 PM

I have a fairly new bandsaw with a timberwolf blade. I have never had a problem until now. I am trying to resaw some walnut and it barely cuts and smells like it is burning when it is cutting. What to I do. Is it my blade or is walnut just that hard. thanks for the help.

17 replies so far

View lew's profile


12382 posts in 3930 days

#1 posted 10-12-2009 02:37 PM

Sounds like the blade is dull. Another thing that happens when you resaw is that the wood pinches the blade. You may have to insert a small wedge into the kerf to prevent the wood from closing up on the blade.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View sry's profile


147 posts in 3783 days

#2 posted 10-12-2009 03:26 PM

I was just dealing with this problem over the weekend (resawing walnut, smelled like burning, and with timberwolf blades as well). Turns out the problem is that I forgot to replace the 8 tpi blade I was using before with the 4tpi blade for resawing. Burning at 8tpi turned into a hot knife through butter at 4tpi.

Also, at the very least you’ll want to clean (and possibly resharpen) your blade before continuing, since you probably now have burnt walnut on it.

View hunter82's profile


12 posts in 3919 days

#3 posted 10-12-2009 03:36 PM

Thank for the input. I will check it but I am pretty sure that I have a resaw blade. It is 3/4 of an inch thick, and pretty sure that it is 4 tpi. I will check it though

View sry's profile


147 posts in 3783 days

#4 posted 10-12-2009 03:50 PM

Assuming your blade is sharp, the problem is probably a chip clearance issue. That is, a combination of the feed rate and gullet size (which is usually related to tpi) means you’re generating chips faster than you can clear them out the bottom of the cut.

There’s a general rule for how many teeth to have in the material. I think it’s somewhere in the neighborhood of 6-8, but someone with more knowledge than me might want to verify that. So for my 2” walnut I’m resawing, 4tpi works great. However 4 might be too much for 6” stock, for example.

You might try calling suffolk machinery directly (the people who make timberwolf blades). I’ve found them to be very helpful in guiding you towards the proper blade for your particular application.

View Kindlingmaker's profile


2658 posts in 3702 days

#5 posted 10-12-2009 03:59 PM

I used TW blades and switched to the Wood Slicer from Highland and what a difference for resawing. They don’t like nails though…

-- Never board, always knotty, lots of growth rings

View mtnwild's profile


3474 posts in 3702 days

#6 posted 10-12-2009 04:05 PM

Are you feeding the wood in a fixed position? Sometimes the blade starts to wander off line and will bind. Try free handing the cut, no jigs or fences, or best a single pivot point by the blade. Watch your feed rate, don’t hurry or force wood. Good luck…...........

-- mtnwild (Jack), It's not what you see, it's how you see it.

View mtkate's profile


2049 posts in 3500 days

#7 posted 10-12-2009 04:26 PM

I had a similar problem the first time I tried cutting hardwood with my bandsaw – turns out that the blade was simply not tight enough.

View hunter82's profile


12 posts in 3919 days

#8 posted 10-12-2009 04:31 PM

Yeah the blade was wondering over the material, but I was forcing the cut. The material I was cutting was around 10” wide. So I might need a blade with fewer tpi. I will call Suffolk to see what they suggest.

View Karson's profile


35140 posts in 4576 days

#9 posted 10-13-2009 05:42 AM

Under some condition you might have the blade in upside down. Where the teeth are pointing up. It that’s the case make sure that you turn the blade inside out.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Appomattox Virginia †

View OregonBurls's profile


580 posts in 3323 days

#10 posted 10-13-2009 05:51 AM

I go thur blades like crazy but I cut burls and there is a lot of grit in the burls. Definitely sounds like a dull blade.
Just one pass on a hard serface can dull all the teeth. But I cut walnut all the time. I just have to have a sharp blade.

-- Greg, Southern Oregon, What can I say but God Is Good!

View Scott 's profile


103 posts in 3534 days

#11 posted 10-13-2009 06:09 AM

Karson, been there done that. You may think that its a rookie mistake but I’m sure the best of woodworkers have done that atleast once. What size BS are you using? If it’s a 14”, the combination of the 3/4” blade and the walnut may be a little much for it.

-- Scott, South Carolina

View hunter82's profile


12 posts in 3919 days

#12 posted 10-13-2009 07:16 PM

yeah it is a 14” bandsaw and the blade is turned correctly.

View Walnut_Weasel's profile


360 posts in 3397 days

#13 posted 10-13-2009 07:33 PM

I have cut close to 6” walnut with my 1/4” timberwolf without a problem though I did have to slow the feed rate down significantly. I would be interested in knowing what you find out.

-- James -

View studie's profile


618 posts in 3322 days

#14 posted 10-14-2009 11:49 AM

Alignment has been a big issue for my bandsaw. Truing the blade made all the difference. Try setting the blade by turning the guide shaft left or right on a scrap piece, worked for me.

-- $tudie

View Sawdust2's profile


1466 posts in 4263 days

#15 posted 10-14-2009 02:04 PM

I was using a 3/4” resaw blade on my 14” Jet with riser. That is just too much blade for the saw.
I switched to 1/2” amd the results improved significantly.
I, too, used the Woodslicer from Highland Woodworking but have recently used a 4TPI 1/2” from Morse and got great results at a less expensive cost per blade.
While TW was (is) good for general BS work I have never had any luck with one as a resaw blade.


-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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