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Kickback problem - table saw technique help

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Forum topic by Lloyd Davies posted 43 days ago 609 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Lloyd Davies's profile

Lloyd Davies

83 posts in 219 days


43 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Hello,
I am making an end grain cutting board and would like some advice on the best way to make a cut. Is it safer to make the cut as show in Picture A below or as in Picture B. Help much appreciated for a table saw beginner. Picture A has the big advantage of knowing that all my finished pieces will be the same width. With Picture B I will have to rely on the accuracy of my fence as I will have to adjust it for the 17 or so cuts I will be doing.

Thx, Lloyd

PS I could not figure out how to embed an image in a forum post so please check the links below. Sorry for the inconvenience.

PICTURE A

PICTURE B

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

20600 posts in 715 days


43 days ago

Lloyd, you want to cut the board so that the waste or cut-off falls to the outside of the blade. In this case picture B is the best cut if you want to avoid kickback potential which happens when a piece gets trapped between the blade and the fence. This is a much safer procedure than the cut you are showing in Picture A.

A crosscut sled would sure come in handy for this project. With a stop block it would give you consistent width cross cuts without having move a fence and the hold downs would prevent kickback. But you can get by with cutting as in Picture A if your saw is well tuned and you use a long enough push stick. In fact, if you go to Marc Spagnolo’s video on making an end grain cutting board this is the process that he uses. It is not the safest but it can be done. Another option would be to use your miter gauge with a sub-fence attached to your regular fence that stops in front of the blade. This would give you consistent cut-offs without having to move the fence and allow space that would not result in the piece binding between the blade and fence.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View miles125's profile

miles125

1419 posts in 899 days


43 days ago

Are you just banging out repetitive strips from the slab? If so, cut the slab in half for better ease of handling and go with A and a push stick. Ample WD40 for easy sliding also helps.

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

View Lloyd Davies's profile

Lloyd Davies

83 posts in 219 days


43 days ago

Yes Scott I agree; a cross cut sled would be ideal for this. I have favorited a couple her on LJ that I want to make at some point in the future. I keep thinking about upgrading my table saw to a saw stop so I don’t want to make one that will be obsolete with a new saw. Perhaps I should either bit the bullet and get the saw or just make a sled.

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3036 posts in 915 days


43 days ago

This guage works well too and saves remeasuring.
Probably a crosscut sled is you best bet if you are just starting out.

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

7615 posts in 1112 days


43 days ago

I second Bob #2’s gauge. It’s easy to make one of these, and repeatable cuts are safe and easy.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View closetguy's profile

closetguy

303 posts in 785 days


43 days ago

I would do “A” because it is easier to control. As long as you have a good blade and a push stick, it will work. You have to keep pressure on the board and keep it moving. If you loose focus, slow down, stop halfway through, or let the board turn, kick back will become a reality. I agree with miles125, a shorter board is safer, because it is easier to control and is less likely to turn the board through the cut.

I use a sliding table with a stop block. By the time the board gets halfway way through the cut, it is free and clear of pinching against anything on the right. I also use a push stick. There is a box behind the saw to catch each strip as it falls off the saw.

-- I don't make mistakes, only design changes....www.dgmwoodworks.com

View Chris Wright's profile

Chris Wright

360 posts in 374 days


43 days ago

I’ve cut chess boards doing it like in Picture A. I’d use a miter gauge to get a square end then cross cut the strips, using a push stick of course. And Miles, I’d never use a petroleum based lubricant (i.e. WD-40) on anything that comes into contact with wood, it will prevent any finish from sticking to the wood. If you need a lubricant, use something like a paste wax instead.

-- "At its best, life is completely unpredictable." - Christopher Walken

View miles125's profile

miles125

1419 posts in 899 days


43 days ago

Chris, i’ve used wd40 for prob 20 years precisely because i’ve never had a finish problem with it. Wax is the last thing i use.

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

View douginaz's profile

douginaz

171 posts in 895 days


43 days ago

I’m with closetguy – and the set up he has shown if a cross cut sled is not going to happen. As stated, use a push stick on the cutoff and you should be fine.

No comment on the WD-40.

Later,
Doug in AZ.

-- If you need craft books - please visit our small business at http://www.wittywife.com

View Julian's profile

Julian

688 posts in 419 days


43 days ago

Wd40? No thank you. It may work for you, but I’ll stick to paste wax on my tables, thank you. Make a crosscut sled and then you’ll be cooking with gas.

-- Julian, Park Forest, IL

View niki's profile

niki

428 posts in 973 days


43 days ago

On the pictures, I can see that you are going to cross-cut using the rip fence as a guide which is big “NO, NO”...there is a great risk of kickback….

Go as Closetguy is showing on the picture…IMO, it’s the best and correct technique to cross-cut pieces to the same width…I would clamp the workpiece to the sled fence for every cut to avoid some Oooops’s…

Regards
niki

View Lloyd Davies's profile

Lloyd Davies

83 posts in 219 days


42 days ago

OK thanks all

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com

View EEngineer's profile

EEngineer

275 posts in 507 days


42 days ago

No WD-40. Paste wax is only a problem if you get some with silicone in it (car waxes are notorious for this). Good ol’ Johnson’s floor wax is cheapest and best for wood working.

-- "Find out what you cannot do and then go do it!"

View Dustmite97's profile

Dustmite97

181 posts in 113 days


35 days ago

Picture B will work as long as you use a crosscut sled or even a miter guage.

-- Remember, measure twice, cut once

View panther's profile

panther

36 posts in 136 days


35 days ago

i say make a panel cutting sled it is much safer than a or b

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