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Should I be fixing the crack in this table / how could I fix it?

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Forum topic by Shubha posted 07-10-2015 11:23 PM 889 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shubha

13 posts in 563 days


07-10-2015 11:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: crack table top fix

In finishing up my table from a reclaimed bowling alley lane, I cracked the edge in one seam. Basically I stupidly screwed in a screw in that seam, so it’s now cracked but there is a screw in it so it’s not something I can just squeeze back together.

I put wood putty on the underside of it in the crack. I also have these horizontal bars going across the bottom of the table so it’s possible the crack wouldn’t be able to extend. Also bowling alley lanes are attached together with nails so maybe that will also keep it stable?

Any thoughts on whether I need to fix this for structural integrity? And if I don’t, if there’s some other way to sort of seal it up so that crumbs and stuff don’t get in it? I was hoping there was some sort of clear wood putty but I can’t find one. I’m afraid of using resin because it seems complicated and I’m new to this and don’t want to mess this up anymore than it is.

This photo shows the horizontal bars…the cracked bit is in the lower right hand side.

And then this one shows the crack from the top of the table.


11 replies so far

View Bogeyguy's profile

Bogeyguy

548 posts in 1535 days


#1 posted 07-10-2015 11:45 PM

Take the screw out, force glue down into the crack, top and bottom, clamp it with bar clamps, relocate the screw you removed. Drill a pilot hole for the screw.

-- Art, Pittsburgh.

View leatherstocking's profile

leatherstocking

22 posts in 519 days


#2 posted 07-10-2015 11:50 PM

Should be fairly easy to weasel some glue into the crack, and clamp it, after removing the screw of course.
The under frame will not shrink as it dries out, but the table top will. Your top will likely crack again from this phenomenon. Sorry no time right now to properly explain.

-- John, BC, Canada. Wherever I go, there I am.

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

2228 posts in 1913 days


#3 posted 07-10-2015 11:51 PM

force the glue through the crack by either using a shop vac or compressed air, clamp ,leave it for 12 to 24 hours ,sand if necessary.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View Ghidrah's profile

Ghidrah

667 posts in 689 days


#4 posted 07-11-2015 01:56 AM

Like the rest I’d flood the crack and clamp, remove the leg, drill out the existing screw hole then plug it with the same mat as the table. Predrill for the new hole then reset the leg.

-- I meant to do that!

View BurlyBob's profile

BurlyBob

3695 posts in 1732 days


#5 posted 07-11-2015 04:35 AM

There’s a two part resin out there you can use to fill the crack after the glue up. It’s easy to find at craft stores. Another option is a two part epoxy, that too is easy to find at any hardware, lumber or big box store. They are not that hard to use and easy smooth.

View Gopher's profile

Gopher

27 posts in 1413 days


#6 posted 07-11-2015 04:59 AM

Flood crack with glue – Remove screw – Clamp tight for 12 hrs.
Drill out screw hole with a forstner bit to match a 1/2” or 3/4” dowel
Glue dowel in hole. drill pilot hole for screw.

-- Ted T. Aiken S.C.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

2406 posts in 1776 days


#7 posted 07-11-2015 07:13 AM

Are all those metal straps and legs screwed to that solid wood top have any provisions for wood movement?? If not there’s going to be more cracking in the future.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View leatherstocking's profile

leatherstocking

22 posts in 519 days


#8 posted 07-11-2015 03:09 PM

As Alaska notes you will want to provide for seasonal wood expansion/contraction. One way would be to file all the screw holes, except the middle ones. I mean file them to be slots, so the screw can slide when the wood moves.

-- John, BC, Canada. Wherever I go, there I am.

View bondogaposis's profile (online now)

bondogaposis

4036 posts in 1818 days


#9 posted 07-11-2015 06:02 PM

You could fix it easily as others have said, but there isn’t much point unless you allow for wood movement in your design because it will assuredly crack again. I would make all of the holes in the metal cross members over size so the the wood is free to move.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View leatherstocking's profile

leatherstocking

22 posts in 519 days


#10 posted 07-11-2015 06:15 PM

http://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/seasonal-movement/

A good explanation.

-- John, BC, Canada. Wherever I go, there I am.

View soob's profile

soob

223 posts in 675 days


#11 posted 07-11-2015 06:18 PM

What are those straps for, anyway?

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