LumberJocks

Help with Drum Switch on Grizzly Shaper

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Shanem posted 07-10-2015 01:42 PM 1335 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Shanem's profile

Shanem

128 posts in 1931 days


07-10-2015 01:42 PM

So I bought a used 1 1/2 hp grizzly shaper. The previous owner upgraded to a 2hp leeson motor (110402). He attempted to wire the switch but it only works in reverse. I’m trying to wire it up for FW/Rev but the grizzly manual only has color codes and no T numbers. Also, there is no make or model on the drum switch. must be a Taiwanese one. It has 6 connection spots on each side.

Any help with wiring this for 220V?


12 replies so far

View REO's profile

REO

889 posts in 1539 days


#1 posted 07-10-2015 10:01 PM

is it a capacitor motor?how many leads available in the packing head of the motor?what are the letter and number designations on the switch?

View JeffMartineau's profile

JeffMartineau

78 posts in 518 days


#2 posted 07-10-2015 11:01 PM

Do you have a clearer picture of the switch? In general, you can follow this pattern for what you want to achieve:

Edit: Don’t forget the ground and neutral, usually green and white. The drawing doesn’t show their positions, but it should be marked on the switch. I see the NS flag, are you in the Halifax area?

-- -Jeff. My shop is huge, it just doesn't have a ceiling. Or walls.

View 01ntrain's profile

01ntrain

146 posts in 535 days


#3 posted 07-10-2015 11:28 PM

That connection is temporary, right?

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4230 posts in 1664 days


#4 posted 07-11-2015 12:03 AM

That diagram will work for a DC motor (note the +/- indicators), but not for a typical AC induction motor. What does the wiring diagram on the motor look like? I may not be possible to reverse directions on it.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View JeffMartineau's profile

JeffMartineau

78 posts in 518 days


#5 posted 07-11-2015 12:38 AM

Searched the interweb and found the wiring diagram for the motor. Good news is it is reversible yaaay! I’ll try to make the drawing user friendly for you!

-- -Jeff. My shop is huge, it just doesn't have a ceiling. Or walls.

View JeffMartineau's profile

JeffMartineau

78 posts in 518 days


#6 posted 07-11-2015 02:54 AM

WARNING:

THIS SETUP WILL PERMIT YOU TO CONTROL THE MOTOR, BUT IT WILL ALWAYS HAVE A VOLTAGE GOING TO IT. UNPLUG THE MACHINE AFTER EVERY USE !!!

THE 2 HP LEESON IS A CAP START, CAP RUN. THIS SWITCH IS MADE FOR CAP START, INDUCTION RUN. YOU NEED A NEW SWITCH.

And sorry for the NS flag, wouldn’t want to insult a true Newfoundlander!

-- -Jeff. My shop is huge, it just doesn't have a ceiling. Or walls.

View Shanem's profile

Shanem

128 posts in 1931 days


#7 posted 07-12-2015 11:30 PM

Hey jeff,
I just hooked this up as you have indicated, doesn’t spin. Just hums in both directions.
I removed all jumpers as you identified by the red arrows. Is this correct?

View JeffMartineau's profile

JeffMartineau

78 posts in 518 days


#8 posted 07-13-2015 09:16 AM

Hard to say. You should not need those jumpers on a regular switch, but without being there to test it’s operation, I can’t really say yay or nay. It did work in the one direction before, so maybe it does operate on a different pattern than what I thought. Is this the original switch?

-- -Jeff. My shop is huge, it just doesn't have a ceiling. Or walls.

View Shanem's profile

Shanem

128 posts in 1931 days


#9 posted 07-13-2015 10:17 AM

it is the original switch. Here is the switch wiring diagram from the manual. It only has wire colors and no T#’s.

View Shanem's profile

Shanem

128 posts in 1931 days


#10 posted 07-13-2015 10:22 AM

In addition to the jumpers they have indicated, there are metal connecting strips between U-5, R-blank top, S-blank bottom.
I looked to see if these colors are universal and could not find anything definitive.

View REO's profile

REO

889 posts in 1539 days


#11 posted 07-13-2015 08:58 PM

You will find the “T” numbers on the leads of the motor inside the packing head of the motor. your goal with the replacement harbor freight motor is to switch the T5 and T8 leads. The original diagram may not be any good for the new motor.
One line goes to T1
one line goes to t4 which is connected through the switch t5 in CCW and t8 in CW
t2 and t3 are tied together and connected through the switch to T8 in CW and to T5 in CCW

copy and paste this into your browser for a pictorial.

https://www.google.com/search?q=wiring+a+single+phase+reversing+drum+switch&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=985&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CCAQsARqFQoTCPGF__f92MYCFUcTkgodnkUATA&dpr=1#imgrc=EmpEX3ISfIZZoM%3A

View Shanem's profile

Shanem

128 posts in 1931 days


#12 posted 07-14-2015 12:53 PM

Thanks all for your replies. I got fed up with the switch not working so I decided to disassemble it and see exactly how it made connections in FW/Rev. While doing so I discovered that a contact had melted and wasn’t making a connection in forward. So after all this I need a new switch….

Encase anyone down the road has an issue with this particular switch and wondering how it makes connections, here goes.
In Forward:
R,5, Blank
All closed
6,S, blank

In Reverse;
U,R,blank
All closed
S,V,blank

These switches are cheaply made with a plastic cog that initiates small contacts. I believe I am going to just buy a double pole switch and manual change 5&8 if I ever need to reverse. And down the road if I find I do it often, I will buy a better quality drum switch.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com