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Forum topic by ajosephg posted 10-07-2009 03:43 AM 5275 views 2 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1880 posts in 3703 days

10-07-2009 03:43 AM

Topic tags/keywords: spray gun hvlp overspray

Been thinking about acquiring a HVLP system to mainly spray oil based polyU. Concern is if the overspray would coat everything in my shop (including me) that is not covered. (A spray booth in my situation is not practical.)

If overspray is minimal it seems like this would be 1000% faster than brushing and higher quality finish could be obtained.

Like to hear if any of you have been there done that and what the results were.

-- Joe

9 replies so far

View Sawdust2's profile


1466 posts in 4229 days

#1 posted 10-07-2009 03:55 AM

Well, I use an Apollo HVLP. There is no real comparison with the old compressor sprayer.
But you are correct that you will still need to cover things.

I’ve seen, but not yet built, a “portable” spray booth made out of three doors, sheets of insulatoin, whatever. They just hinge and fold in on each other. The center section often has an exhaust fan behind some furnace filters. I think that that would solve almost all of my overspray problems.Just set it up in front of an open door or window.


-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

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2828 posts in 3427 days

#2 posted 10-08-2009 03:01 AM

Joe, I’ve used both and the HVLP does cut down on the overspray, but not totally. With your HVLP, you spray with only about 7lbs of pressure, but high volume. When I’m spraying with my conventional compressor and gun, I usually spray at about 35 lbs pressure, less volume, but the pressure creates a lot more overspray.
Lee is right, I would check out building a small portable spray booth and exhaust out a door or window. Instead of spraying Polyurathane, have you considered lacquer. Dries fast and easy to use.

-- John @

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28 posts in 3295 days

#3 posted 10-08-2009 07:31 AM

Joe I too do not have room for a spray booth. My advice is to go waterbourne. The newer finishes are dust free within 15 minutes (depending on humidity – temp etc.) I have sanded many a bug or dust mote out between coats without problems. I use a cheap old wagner hvlp system. Hvlp is the way to go. The finest water based finish I have found is called Crystalac, available thru Mc Feeleys catalogue. They also sell Apollo equipment. Please give this stuff a try you will not be dissapointed. Many fine finishes to you, KB

-- KB1KnoB

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117232 posts in 3719 days

#4 posted 10-08-2009 07:39 AM

I’ve seen simple plans for shop made pull down booths

-- wood crafting & woodworking classes

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2387 posts in 3689 days

#5 posted 10-08-2009 08:12 PM

I cannot give you any advise on the lack of a spray booth. Seems you need to have some sort of set up or at least cover your equipment. I would like to agree with Huff, I spray lacquer myself with great results and convenience. Quick dry times and easy application. Spraying lacquer you would want to make sure you don’t spray around any pilot lights or anything that can ignite as lacquer is flamable.

-- .

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1880 posts in 3703 days

#6 posted 10-08-2009 08:31 PM

Some follow-up questions

1. If I would hang three tarps (back and 2 sides) and spray lacquer in there, would the overspray that gets out be like dust on stuff it falls on so it could be wiped up with a cloth or vacuum? (I’d wear a respirator of course.)

2. If I’d spray a waterbased finish, would the overspray get out of said “room?” Also, are Crystalac finishes as transparent as polyu or lacquer?

BTW – No pilot lights or ignition sources in my shop. I’d turn off the air compressor so as to prevent contactor sparks.

Covering all the machines would not be a big deal, but the stuff that hangs on the walls, the wood, windows, floor would not be practical to cover.

-- Joe

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661 posts in 3342 days

#7 posted 10-09-2009 12:20 AM

I have used HVLP for a number of years. My spray booth in my garage consists of a third in depth of an old fridge box, ( namely an Amana french door fridge box) , which is fairly wide, a box fan and a filter held with bungi cords turned on high. Overspray is down to a minimum (if any) and the garage stays clean.
I have sprayed articles from stair treads to finished furniture pieces with this method, yes there have been the odd mistake here and there but I have been to some of the furniture factories out east and as long as the air moves away from the project, you can end up with a great finish. Until recently, most furniture and cabinet factories used very little else. Air scrubbing is not necessary in a small shop. As explained by CessnaPilotBarry your problems should be minimal.

-- Methods are many,Principles are few.Methods change often,Principles never do.

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2828 posts in 3427 days

#8 posted 10-09-2009 03:20 AM

Joe, A quick follow-up to your question about the overspray. Spraying lacquer, the overspray is dry by the time it lands on anything. I’ve never had any overspray actually stick to anything. Again, I spray lacquer and I’m sure it would be different for Poly finishes, simply because of the much slower drying time for those products, but simplest spray booth will help on any finish. Good luck.

-- John @

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2387 posts in 3689 days

#9 posted 10-09-2009 03:26 AM

As to your question regarding overspray lacquer, you need to turn your pressure at the gun as low as you can get it in order to get the spray to atomize. I feel less is better with air pressure. I actually use a rol-air compressor and turn down the regulator down to 35 and I have another regulator at the gun I turn down to around 25 to 30 or so. This seems to minimize any overspray. But any overspray with lacquer would be more of a dust because of the very quick dry time.

-- .

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