Good Ripping Blade for Solid Edge Joining?

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Forum topic by Trucker posted 07-07-2015 12:45 PM 939 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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20 posts in 1082 days

07-07-2015 12:45 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blade diablo

Hi Everyone,
I recently lent my table and miter saws to my uncle in-law who returned them both with dull blades and a big blade gouge in the table saw fence….lesson learned…be careful who you lend your tools to…especially in-laws (maybe a little too much of a generalization…). He told me that he was only cutting laminate flooring and base trim. Anyone else had the experience of going from really sharp to completely dull (barely able to cut through pine studs) when putting down 400sq. ft. of flooring???

Anyway, he will be paying to replace the blades and fence and I was wondering if I could turn this into an opportunity to try a new table saw blade. I was using a Diablo 80-tooth blade and was burning a lot of my rip cuts, but the cuts were still really smooth and seem to glue up really well. After getting the suggestion to go to a combination blade from another post that I put up on Lumberjocks I have already bought a Diablo 50-tooth combination blade, but I haven’t taken it out for a test drive yet. Since my uncle in-law will be paying for another new blade I was thinking about getting a Diablo 60-tooth blade for crosscutting to reduce the burning that I got with the 80-tooth. Hopefully that all makes sense…

Any suggestions? I would be really interested in feedback from anyone with experience using any of these blades to rip thin (less than 1/2”) pieces that get edge glued. I’m making a bunch of cutting boards and it would be great to get glue-ready pieces right off the table saw.


6 replies so far

View CM02WS6's profile


61 posts in 1342 days

#1 posted 07-07-2015 12:59 PM

Ripping with 60-plus teeth is sure to lead to burning. For ripping, go with a ripping blade. I have a 24 tooth Freud Industrial LU87R010 blade and was just plowing through some 8/4 white oak with it last night. I really like it for ripping thick stock.

For ripping thin pieces, a combo blade would work fine too. I had the Diablo 50 tooth you mentioned and it was good. Was my first “real” blade and I was happy with it. However, I recently got a 50 tooth Combomax from Infinity Tools and it is much, much better all around.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4931 posts in 3960 days

#2 posted 07-07-2015 02:35 PM

24 tooth thin kerf for smaller motors, 24 tooth full kerf for saws with bigger motors (horsepower). I use “glue line” rip blades from Freud and Onsrud with good results.
Combo blades have their place, and I use them for smaller jobs. When it comes to big jobs with long cuts, I use blades specifically designed for the needed cut.
As a point of reference, the flooring, if it is prefinished, may have aluminum oxide in the finish to reduce wear. That stuff is death to blade teeth. It is HARD.
Second, the burning may be an indication of improper alignment of the saw.
While you’re putting on new blades and fence, be sure to recheck all the alignment.


View rwe2156's profile


2926 posts in 1480 days

#3 posted 07-07-2015 02:52 PM

First, yes, laminate flooring can ruin a blade pretty quick, especially with a cheaper blade, so I believe it.

Second, you can’t rip with an 80 tooth blade without burning which also ruins your blade.
You can, however, rip thin strips with a xcut blade.

For general use, I recommend a 24 or 30T flat top rip + a 60 tooth ATB x cut are pretty standard.
For plywood I use an 80T laminate blade.

Always use the best blade you can afford and there are perfectly fine blades without going to a Forrest.

I’ve had good luck with both Freud and CMT.

Sounds like you’ve got a contractor saw there so be sure to go with thin kerf blades like Bill said.

The only Diablo blade I used was in my miter saw and I wasn’t impressed it didn’t hold it sharpness very long.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2921 days

#4 posted 07-07-2015 02:53 PM

I get a” jointer quality” cut with a 24 teeth Diablo on my table saw. I never cut plywood nor do I cross cut with this blade, Just rip cuts.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View CharlesA's profile


3322 posts in 1797 days

#5 posted 07-07-2015 03:19 PM

There are a lot of good blades out there these days, but you can’t go wrong with a Freud Glue Line Rip blade. I don’t use it on 2×4’s, plywood—just for hardwood, particularly for glue-ups.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View toddbeaulieu's profile


814 posts in 3004 days

#6 posted 07-07-2015 05:41 PM

Lots of great advice here that I agree with. I just want to mention one additional point. With a true rip blade you get a nice flat bottom, which is awesome for dados and rabbets, including for those times when you’re too lazy to change into a dado set. I use my Freud 24 A LOT for ripping and love it. I use my Forrest ATB when making a lot of cross cuts.

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