Spreading Contact Cement

sounds silly but have you tryed a wallpaper spreader the plastic type for getting the bubbles out behind the paper

-- cut it saw it scrap it

I spray it now but in the old days I used to use a pc of low pile carpet. Just stapled a block of wood to the back for a handle. At least it was cost effective.

I use a small piece of the formica itelf. Kinda like a small spatula if you will

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

pommy: Not specifically a wallpaper spreader but I have made my own plastic spreaders out of 4mm coroplast, old credit cards, ...

bentlyj: No low pile carpet at hand. I’ve got a little med-heavy pile, but no low. :(

-- Chunk

I just built an island including laminating the top, made this tutorial about it. http://www.hoistman.com/HoistMan/Laminating.html I used a dispossable glue brush for the small places and a small smooth roller for the large areas. The contact cement I used is water based and the roller cleaned easy.

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

The “J” roller is used to apply pressure to the laminate AFTER the glue is spread.

-- Don, Pittsburgh

I save all of those “fake” credit/enrolled cards. Use them once and give them a toss.

I like the glue brush but never heard of such a thing. Time for some research.

“The “J” roller is used to apply pressure to the laminate AFTER the glue is spread.”
Ever watch This Old House? The Tom Silva spreads the glue with a J-Roller. I always use it to roll out the laminate to make the bond too, but that’s what he does.

-- Chunk

48 for $10.50 http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000347/1083/Disposable-Glue-Brush--12--48-pieces.aspx

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

I use a disposable chip brush of an appropriate width, depending upon the size of the project.

I will also use old hotel room “key cards”. I travel a lot!

I’d be careful about using “old credit cards” since the number usually does not change, even when expired. Old credit cards should ALWAYS be cut up before disposing.

Cheers!

-- Dave; Lansing, Kansas

DuH! Glue brush aka Acid Brush. I’ve got a whole box of them. I’ll go back to bed now.

-- Chunk

I don’t like the squeegee method, it just doesn’t work well (clean) for me. I can’t control the glue at the edges and it will always squeeze out and runs done the edge of the workpiece. I guess I need to refine my technique?

-- Chunk

I’m sure I saw this in a mag recently, fit a piece of pvc pipe over a paint roller so it fits snug. That’s it. Spread the glue. When it dries, the glue comes right off the pipe.

-- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood.

oooooh now that’s an idea. cheap, recycling, and right up my ally. Thanks juniorjock!

-- Chunk

I wish I could take credit, but I can’t…... Just wish I could remember where I saw that. But I did think it was a good idea. Thanks Chunk.

-- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood.

It must be 1-1/2” because that’s the size that I don’t have. I’ve got 1/2, 1, 2, 3 and 4 but not a single sliver of 1-1/2”. I wonder if 1-1/2 EMT would do???

-- Chunk

A cheap paintbrush of what ever size is good for the job 1-2” usually. Then throw it away. Keep it in water till your done with it and it won’t dry out.

-- The smell of wood, coffee in the cup, the wife let's me do my thing, the lake is peaceful. http://web.me.com/deceiver6/Deceiver/Craftsman_on_the_lake/Craftsman_on_the_lake.html

I use bondo spreaders and scraps of laminate.

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop Southern Oregon

When I am doing larger areas I use a 4” roller and simply toss the the roller cover. They are a couple of bucks, I believe.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

roller or cheap sprayer (dedicated)

you can put a used roller with uncured glue on it in a plastic bag in the freezer and use it the next day.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

juniorjock

I tried the 1-1/2” pipe over a paint roller. I got to say that it worked very well! Thanks for the tip. The only down side was that the pipe wants to ride up and not stay where it’s supposed to. But it’s a great tip never-the-less.

The next can of contact cement that I buy I’ll try the green can water based stuff. The issue that I have is that I typically put laminate over MDF and MDF has a tendancy to suck up the glue which means two coats. So if I use a brush of sorts, that means that the brush hardens at about the same time at the glue on the MDF rending it almost worthless. Maybe the zip-lock bag is the solution between coats on MDF.

Thanks all!

-- Chunk

I’m glad it worked pretty good for you Chunk. I finally found where I saw the tip. It was in the Vol. 31 / No. 185 issue of Woodsmith. They said to use the 1 1/2” pipe, so you were right about that. The tip says that only a small amount of the glue will stay on the pipe and it should peel off easily when it dries. I know what you mean about the MDF. The last time I had to spread glue on MDF I used a small foam paint roller. I think I used twice as much glue as I should have between the MDF and the roller sucking the glue up.

-- JJ...... I guess you could say I'm a 54 year old "juniorjock". — Make things with wood.

I wouldn’t say that the glue “peeled off easily when it dried” but a little mineral spirts on a cotton rag with some elbow grease worked ok. I’m going to try a smaller roller next time, maybe something like a 3” trim roller.

cc

-- Chunk

Chunk – sorry I did not see this question earlier.

Here is a picture of what I use.

I get good results with the foam rollers of the 6” and 9” variety.

Another part of the equation for success is the type of glue. The green waterbase contact cement is easier to handle and gives better results than the solvent based adhesive like WeldWood that you get off the shelf at the Lowes and HD.

I do two or three coats on the borders as necessary to get a build that will hold if the material is soaking it in. There are directions on the can for this.

For instance, high density particle board soaks in less than medium density because it is compressed more tightly. The edge will need more than the top on any material. The field should have sufficient adhesive applied on it but the edges are the most important.

I don’t mess around with trying to reuse rollers. If I am getting goobers of any size I toss the roller cover and apply a new one. The smallest goober will create a bump. Keep the applicator clean so that it lays down a pure and uncontaminated coating of adhesive. That means sometimes you can reuse it and sometimes you can’t. It just depends on how the project is going. In the winter there is a longer open time on the roller and in the summer the glue dries faster on the roller.

Larger pro shops have spray applicators which reduces a lot of these issues.

It is also important to be sure the surfaces are free of dust and debris.

I was taught to use 1/2 pvc pipe or slats from a blind to lay the laminate on top of then pull them out to apply the laminate. I find that heavy plastic or visqueen works best because the laminate lays right on the intended surface and then the plastic is pulled out producing no failure in alignment.

I use lacquer thinner on a rag to clean up or some of it when rubbed a bit will roll up and come off of the surface.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Most important make sure everything is dust free and the area your working in also.
Dust has a way finding its way on to the contact surface.
It depends on the wood your applying it to. Most cases you will need to apply at least a couple coats to the wood service and one coat to the laminate. The service needs to dry before mating them together.
You can apply with a roller or get a cheap spray gun and spray on both service areas. If you are spraying make sure your in a well ventilated area. To flatten use a J roller.
Practice on a sample piece to get the feel for what you need to do, before you work on the good piece.
Good Luck.

-- Eric, Illinois, www.wooddesignsbyeric.com

I prefer a roller to get an even coat. Spraying works well in certain environments but rolling isn’t as messy. Brushing or trowling leaves furrows and uneven drying.

-- Dan, Sterling Alaska, http://sullcon.homestead.com/ Before you criticise some one, walk a mile in their shoes...then you will be a mile away and you have their shoes!

I use a roller like Todd C. stated. Disposable ones are the best…no cleanup! Lays down a nice even layer of cement.Also, use a J-roller to press the laminate down, remembering to work from the inside towards the outside edges. Then cut off any overhang with a router.

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

http://virutex.com/texturedpebblelikeroller.aspx
They make special rollers for contact cement. The rollers are available from places who sell laminate and contact cement. I’ve gotten them from most decent hardware stores and even Home Depot. Cheap china bristle brushes work well. Trimming the bristles helps.

-- Whatever!