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How big of a table saw sled to make/Blade brand recommendation

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Forum topic by Tom posted 07-03-2015 11:05 PM 1199 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Tom

130 posts in 525 days


07-03-2015 11:05 PM

I’ve decided that I want to give woodworking a try (beyond home repair stuff) and that it’s time to make my Ryobi (BTS 10) table saw a bit more user friendly/useful. I’ve seen videos for making a crosscut sled so that was going to be my first project. One issue I have with the saw is that the table is..well small. Is it safe to build the sled a bit wider than the table? There’s been a few projects that I’ve used it for and not having a good way to get a square cut for a wider piece of board stinks. The miter thing that came with it is pretty much garbage; it rattles in the track and has problems with anything more than about 4” wide.

Also…any recommendations on blades? The one in there is the original and it’s gone through a fair amount of lumber plus laminate flooring…3 bedrooms and a large bonus room…so it’s not cutting as nice as it used to.


14 replies so far

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 950 days


#1 posted 07-03-2015 11:15 PM

I used a 2’x2’X1/2” birch ply project panel from Home Depot.

I use quarter sawn hardwood runners in the miter slot.

I use a forrest ww2 full Kerf 40t blade for all final cuts.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

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knotscott

7215 posts in 2840 days


#2 posted 07-04-2015 12:19 AM

For that saw you’ll definitely want a 3/32” thin kerf blade. For value, it’s tough to beat the Diablo D1040x (40T) or D1050x (50T), or the Irwin Marples equivalents for $30-$35. If you specifically want a crosscut blade, go for 60T or 80T. CMT ITK and DeWalt Precision Trim series are also good values. If you want top end, I’d look to Infinity, Forrest, Ridge Carbide, Tenryu Gold Medal, Freud Industrial, or CMT Industrial, but I think the precision of those blades will exceed the precision of the saw. I’d avoid the Irwin Marathon or Classic, Avanti/Avanti Pro, Skil, Ryobi, Workforce, Oldham contractor, DeWalt construction, HF, and Vermont American blades….those are no better than a stock blade.

Saw Blade Bargains

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#3 posted 07-04-2015 12:21 AM

I had that saw when first starting out. Make your sled deep enough (front to back) that you can crosscut 12” wide pieces. Extend your runners at least 6” in front of your sled.

As far as blades go, get a 24 tooth Diablo rip blade from HD (<$30) and make a zero clearance insert for your saw. I have been very impressed with the quality of cut from this blade.

Edit: Scott is the acknowledged “blade guy” but I think with this saw, you will be happier with the 24 tooth and ZCI.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Tom

130 posts in 525 days


#4 posted 07-04-2015 01:02 AM

I plan to get a dado set (book says it will work on the saw) and make a dado plate for the saw. I’ll have to buy the lumber for the sled, my scrap collection isn’t that large. I’ll probably be really upset with myself for not making one years ago.

I was looking at a 40 tooth Diablo blade at HD; they rate well and won’t break the bank. For some reason a $15 blade makes me think “low quality” and while I’m on a budget I’m not on that much of one.

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2198 posts in 945 days


#5 posted 07-04-2015 09:02 PM

Basically make it as wide as your table saw top and deep enough to cut a 12” wide board.
Mine is something like 30 deep X 40 wide.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View Tom's profile

Tom

130 posts in 525 days


#6 posted 07-11-2015 05:51 PM

I’ve got my sled mostly done..but does it need to be varnished/waxed or can I just start using it?

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2154 days


#7 posted 07-12-2015 12:14 AM

I just waxed the runners.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View patcollins's profile

patcollins

1420 posts in 2329 days


#8 posted 07-12-2015 12:44 AM



I was looking at a 40 tooth Diablo blade at HD; they rate well and won t break the bank. For some reason a $15 blade makes me think “low quality” and while I m on a budget I m not on that much of one.

- Starfury

That is a good choice for a general use blade.

View daddywoofdawg's profile

daddywoofdawg

1010 posts in 1039 days


#9 posted 07-12-2015 01:16 AM

use some car wax on the table and the runners and the slot,make sure there is no silicone in the wax though,it gets on the wood and can cause problems with some finishes.Any finish on the sled is just so it looks good, no need for it.

View ForestGrl's profile

ForestGrl

445 posts in 550 days


#10 posted 07-12-2015 03:23 AM

Diablo blades (made by Freud) are a very good value. On my Unisaw, I use mostly mainline Freuds (their LU84 combo blade, glue-line ripping blade LU74, and Ultimate Cutoff blade LU85), but my Makita SCMS came with a Forrest, and I really like that one too. The Ultimate Crosscut is really overkill unless you’re making something like cedar lawn chairs where the end-grain shows, then it’s well worth the investment, the end-grain is highly polished by the blade. When we built our deck out of Ipe, the Freud rep advised me on the best miter-saw blade to use for that super-hard, waxy wood (can’t remember the model#), and it did a fabulous job.

Freud used to make Avanti blades, but I don’t know if they still do. Around 2010, people were posting that the Avanti quality was way down, so buyer beware on those.

-- My mother said that anyone learning to cook needed a large dog to eat the mistakes. As a sculptor of wood I have always tried to keep a fireplace. (Norman Ridenour)

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7215 posts in 2840 days


#11 posted 07-12-2015 10:28 AM



....Freud used to make Avanti blades, but I don t know if they still do. Around 2010, people were posting that the Avanti quality was way down, so buyer beware on those.

- ForestGrl

IIRC, Freud ceased making the Avanti line in June of 2009 due to the amount of overlap between the Diablo, Industrial, and Avanti series. The Avanti (and Avanti Pro) line is now very cheaply made in China, and is no longer what I’d consider a woodworking blade….untensioned stamped steel bodies, small poorly brazed lower grade carbide, poor machining and precision, etc….very much like a typical of a stock blade.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View BasementShop's profile

BasementShop

69 posts in 765 days


#12 posted 07-12-2015 02:02 PM

When I built my cross cut sled, I kept enough overhang on the left side to allow for clamping stop blocks onto the sled. I use a contractors saw and haven’t ‘tuned it up’ beyond that.

I’d strongly recommend you include a sled stop of some kind to keep from going to far. It’s the one feature that I really wish I had included when building mine.

I also use a small extension in the back of the saw. You need to keep the sled from tipping when you get to the last of your cross cutting.

You should do all you can to keep all of your fingers.

Good luck!

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1592 posts in 889 days


#13 posted 07-12-2015 04:08 PM


I used a 2×2 X1/2” birch ply project panel from Home Depot.

I use quarter sawn hardwood runners in the miter slot.

I use a forrest ww2 full Kerf 40t blade for all final cuts.

- TheFridge

Same here. Nothing too elaborate, heavy, or just plain obtrusive. I hate storing jigs and fixtures and if you get carried away, table sleds can get out of hand. I hate storing the one I have now.

Freud Premier Fusion for cross cutting and rips on the table saw. Freud on the Radial Arm Saw and Skil saw too.

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

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timbertailor

1592 posts in 889 days


#14 posted 07-12-2015 04:09 PM

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