Not that kind of sawing logs the real kind, geeez….
I pulled these logs out thinking they were ready and rip for the picking but after sawing a few logs, I found that they needed to cook quite a bit longer, they'd been in the spalting pit for close to 2 years and thought I could shut the pit down as I have enough lumber to last me for the next few years or longer but these on the ground are going back in, they just aren't quite ready yet, no spalting what so ever on these.
The log without bark is Chinaberry the others are Arizona Ash
Hey Jim another thing about the saw, I didn't use the factory stand that came with it I instead built a custom wooden stand with storage and built in mobile system
Tom, they are 11 - 13 inches, I had to chisel some of the back and outer skin on a couple of the logs. One I had to take a slice off with chain saw to narrow it down a bit.
Mike, I bought the riser at the same time I bought the saw after reading comments and reviews and have not regretted it, the only thing that I've noticed is that it took a full inch from the vertical support to the blade reducing it from a 14" to a 13" but giving me 13" from the guides in full up position to the table.
I mill the logs into 1 1/2 thick boards, I than place them stickered on a drying rack inside of a 8×10 metal storage shed since I don't have a kiln nor room for one I have to allow them the 1 + year drying time.
Tom, the table height is 43" the stand height is 22" I do not remove the bark, if you notice in the pictures I make the first pass then turn the log so that its laying on the sled then I make another waste pass to remove the top skin thenI move the sled in 1 1/2" increments, I do not remove the bark, if you go back through my blogs you'll find where I made the stand, all cuts are made with an 1/2" custom made blade from local supplier.
Arlin thanks, I think I also have a blog on the sled as well, I don't coat the ends like you should but I've never had a problem with splitting perhaps I'm just lucky and yes they are stickered on a drying rack.
Poly, shellac and latex paint work as well for coating the ends
from what I learned when I went to a seminar on wood science it works best if you cut the boards and introduce the cultures to the end grain, even just a tiny dab will do it. they cut the boards and add the culture then sticker stack them in rubbermaid containers and they can get a complete spalting process done in a week. The cultures are also available to purchase and you can even get different colors! it's really neat IMO
So glad I posted this, you had put me onto somthing, I just came from fine woodworking member site and read up on DYI spalling and it was explained just what you mentioned and I just so happen to have several 30 gallon plastic containers, thanks for leading me onto this. I already have several sacrificial pieces of Spalted hackberry
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