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Tablesaw and Dust Collection question

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Forum topic by ChunkyC posted 10-02-2009 05:25 PM 4004 views 4 times favorited 33 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


10-02-2009 05:25 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw dust collection

I have a Delta 10” Contractor’s Saw. The rear of the saw where to motor, belt, etc is located is all open. If this were enclosed would the dust collection get significantly better or is just more work than it’s worth?

Chunk

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135


33 replies so far

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Bothus

428 posts in 1923 days


#1 posted 10-02-2009 05:59 PM

Hi Chunky, (can I call you Chunky?)

I don’t know if it is more work than it is worth but I recently read an article (in Fine Woodworking I believe) that showed exactly how to do that to improve dust collection.

I think I have the magazine at home. I bought it just because of that article. I still plan to do that to my Craftsman contractor’s saw.

I will find it and get it the info to you one way or another.

Take care.

Jerry

-- Jerry Boshear, Professional Kitchen Designer, amature woodworker.

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#2 posted 10-02-2009 06:03 PM

If you could let me know what VOL No. it is, that would be awesome.

Everyone on the forums calls me Chunky. Everyone that knows me personally calls me Chunk. Only my enemies call me late for dinner!

Chunk

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3599 posts in 1941 days


#3 posted 10-02-2009 06:44 PM

Hey Chunky( beats being called Fatty!): One of my saws is an old 1985 Crapsman contractor that I re-built years ago. It’s a cutting dude, and dead-on accurate. But I had the same problem(as a lot of us do/ did). Belt drive, motor hanging out the back, etc. I took a piece of stiff drawing paper, looked at and measured all the openings in the back, drew it out, and made a 1/4” plywood cover for it, allowing for motor tilt, etc. Sealed it up with a.c.&h tape( the silver stickey-backed type), and got rid of 80-90% of my dust problem out the back. You might try that and see if it helps. Quick, homemade fixes are usually the best. Hope this helps.

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#4 posted 10-02-2009 06:53 PM

“( beats being called Fatty!):” LOL :) too funny!!

Ockham’s Razor! – More often times than not, the simplest solution is the correct solution.

But… I really want to get every molecule of dust that I can. My shop is in my basement (90% finished) and I try to keep as much of the dust out of the rest of the house as I can. Because I’m a life long bachelor I’m the one doing all of the cleaning. So an ounce of prevention …

Fatty

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#5 posted 10-02-2009 06:55 PM

BTW: It’s FWW Vol 205 June 2009. Great article!

CHunk

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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Rick Dennington

3599 posts in 1941 days


#6 posted 10-02-2009 07:02 PM

Ok—another question? Do you have a dust “hood” under the bottom of your saw hooked up to a d.c. or shop vac. Combined with the two,under the saw and out the back, it should help. But remember-you’ll never stop ALL the dust no matter how hard you try—it’s just impossible.

Tubby!!

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#7 posted 10-02-2009 07:24 PM

Tubby, (Love it!)

Yeah my Delta comes with a dust shoot that mounts horizontally under the saw. It has a 4” flange for my dust collector hose. I’ve been cutting a lot of MDF the last couple of weeks. I’ve forgotten how much dust one cut of MDF makes.

I know that I can’t stop all of the dust, but the more that makes it to DC, the less vacuuming that I have to do. Well I should say, the less vacuuming the Roomba has to do. :)

I’ve been reading the article that bothus referred too and it has opened my eyes to dust collection. Like making sure that all of the holes in the saw are covered. The ones for the tilt and height adjustment, between the saw base and top. etc. Seems pretty basic but it’s something that I hadn’t considered.

Chunk

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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Rick Dennington

3599 posts in 1941 days


#8 posted 10-02-2009 08:08 PM

Yea—I forgot to mention about the holes and any openings around the top where the saw connects to the base. I”ve got a Delta UniSaw X5 w/ a 52” r.c., and a Biesemeyer fence. When I got the saw set up, and d.c. hooked up, that dude would throw dust out the back, down the sides, etc. Coludn’t figure it out. I had my wife to watch while I run a piece through. It was coming from all those places. I fixed it like I did my Crapsman. Sealed it up with the forementioned tape. Stopped that nonsense. Also any little holes exposed,too.
Sounds like you got it well in hand, so get set up, start building, and post some shop shots. I’ll be looking for them. Porky !!!

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#9 posted 10-16-2009 02:37 AM

Just a little update on my quest for better table saw dust collection. I’ve done a few “mods” to the tablesaw. One is I cut cardboard and use blue tape to fill the hole in the rear of the saw where the motor sticks out. This works great but I can’t tilt the blade so this will have to be improved. I’ve covered the holes around the blade height adjustment, again with a strip of blue tape, I’ll get something a little more permanent in the future. But the most noticeable change of all came after I used expandable foam (Great Stuff) around the table top and the sides of the saw. Man what I difference this made. Obviously it’s a combination of all of the things that I’ve been doing but after this one, the dust collector actually pulls saw dust off of the top of the table down into the saw. I couldn’t believe it when I saw it happen.

I plan on trying to box in the back of the saw, something like that was described in FWW as discussed above, but there’s very little room between the top of the table and the motor when tilted on my saw. This has me concerned as how to “box” the motor in while keeping full range of motion on the tilt axis.

Thanks for you help!

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View pinakBERT's profile

pinakBERT

14 posts in 2444 days


#10 posted 10-16-2009 03:27 AM

I bought the magnetic plexi covers from dustroyer. I just checked the site.. but I guess they stop production… Eric didn’t have my saw on there site a few months ago, So I measured it up, and he made a set for my Delta 36-979. Fit pretty good. Dust doesn’t go out the back. It also has the dust port underneath it. Most of the dust that comes from the TS is when its coming up above the blade. So unless you have an above blade dust hose you’re not going to be 100% dust free.

Only thing is I have to take it off if I make any angle cuts. But that doesn’t happen too often.

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#11 posted 10-16-2009 03:40 AM

dustroyer is basicly what I have except mine looks like cra It’s just card board and blue tape. P)

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5387 posts in 1979 days


#12 posted 10-16-2009 03:55 AM

FWIW, closing off the back of the saw like you have done is a HUGE improvement, but like has been mentioned above, you need to collect above the table as well. My system picks up from the OE blade shroud port, a belly pan underneath, and a Shark Guard with port. I realize how well the Shark Guard works when I forget to hook it up and dust goes everywhere…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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Lynden

51 posts in 1894 days


#13 posted 10-16-2009 09:02 AM

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KingGordon

16 posts in 1890 days


#14 posted 10-17-2009 04:34 PM

I built my dust shroud from a plastic roofers pipe jack boot flashing bought at home depot. The pipe jack boot is almost exactly the right size for the bottom of my craftsman contractor’s saw. I attached it with some mounting tape and a few pieces of plywood to fill in the gaps.

Then I cut a 4” piece of PVC at a 45 degree angle and inserted it into the flashing. The rubber boot allows me to adjust the PVC anywhere I want, so it can be put directly into the sawdust stream as it comes off the blade. I found that with this setup so close to the blade almost no dust escapes and I don’t need to seal off the back of the saw. And it’s cheap, too! The boot jack was about $4.00 and I already had the PVC from the rest of my dust collection system.

Maybe this would work for you too?
!

From Untitled Album
(Table Saw Pipe Boot)!

!

From Untitled Album
(Table Saw Pipe Boot – Inside)!

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ChunkyC

856 posts in 2001 days


#15 posted 10-17-2009 06:02 PM

KingGordon:

“Yeah my Delta comes with a dust shoot that mounts horizontally under the saw. It has a 4” flange for my dust collector hose.”

It’s the rear of the saw that’s the issue but that’s a most excellent idea.

-- Chunk's Workshop pictures: http://spadfest.rcspads.com/thumbnails.php?album=135

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