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Lumber prep for table saw, getting one edge straight.

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Forum topic by spidennis posted 06-29-2015 02:26 PM 817 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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spidennis

6 posts in 1977 days


06-29-2015 02:26 PM

12’ Lumber prep and getting one edge straight before cutting on the table saw.

I know it’s been asked before, and I know of some of the different options …..
I tried a hand plane but that’s just not good enough …..

I’d really like to find a 12 foot straight edge ….
a 12’ metal wall stud is one thing I’ll look for as a straight edge
what else could I use that is 12 foot or even 14’ long?

so if I had a straight edge I could do a couple of things …...
i could get a better edge with a hand plane or
I could use a router which I think would be my preferred low cost method

I have a table saw, and I have a makita surface planer …....

but I’d really like to have a tracksaw, but that’s not in the budget right now …..
does anyone see a problem with setting up a track that long? or even 14’ long?


12 replies so far

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

841 posts in 2438 days


#1 posted 06-29-2015 02:40 PM

That’s a long board! What will you be doing with it? You could attach an 8’ and 4’ length of plywood that has a straight edge using a long straight edge and/or string to make sure the 2 pieces are aligned. Attach them with screws and allow the edge to overhang your lumber slightly. Then, run the plywood edges against the saw fence.

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1748 posts in 601 days


#2 posted 06-29-2015 03:03 PM

If you have router table and some infeed/outfeed support, you can use it as a jointer. Shim the outfeed side of the fence out (1/32 – 1/8” depending on wood type, cutter and router hp) and set it flush with the cutter diameter. Use a feather board to hold the board tight to the fence on the outfeed side of the cutter. You can also do the same with a sacrificial fence on the tablesaw that is offset out and flush with the blade on the outfeed but I find it easier and safer to do it on the router table with roller stands aiding with in/out feed.

If you prefer to use a straight edge, I don’t see any reason it won’t work. Just make sure it’s good and stiff and won’t flex when you clamp it down. If your wood is planed flat, you might try a MDF shelf board that they sell at the big box stores. I’m pretty sure they sell 3/4” in 12’ lengths at pretty low cost and unless it’s been stored poorly, the factory edge is usually pretty straight. Just make sure whatever you’re using for an edge guide won’t dig into the soft core.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1832 days


#3 posted 06-29-2015 03:08 PM

I’m assuming by Makita surface planer, you mean a powered handheld one? If so, you could snap a straight line with a chalk line, and then plane down to that. If its a lunchbox-style planer, you could attach lengths of plywood to either side as a base, and run it on edge through the planer until you’ve taken a full-length pass.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View crank49's profile

crank49

3981 posts in 2433 days


#4 posted 06-29-2015 03:50 PM

Pull a chalk line tight as you can, on the convex edge (higher in the middle) and strike a line.
Machine or plane down to this line.
Then with this line as a reference you should be able to rip a parallel cut on the opposite edge on the table saw.

If using a hand plane it should be a jointer plane, a #7 or #8.
If using a router, square tubing can be bought from a fabricator that would make a nice edge to ride the router base on. Extruded aluminum 1 1/2” square would be best, but a little spendy. Steel tubing cost less but not as straight.
either material can be bought up to 20ft long.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

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spidennis

6 posts in 1977 days


#5 posted 06-29-2015 04:05 PM

You guys got me thinking …...... but now i’m leaning towards the “upgrade” path ….. so say I just got the track sections and used that as my “straight edge”, and then got the saw later? ...... I haven’t looked into the cost of just the track yet …

edit: even the Grizzly is gonna cost some coin, let alone Fesstool! 50 bucks for 55” x3=150 bucks
https://www.grizzly.com/products/55-Guide-Rail-for-T10687/T24872

oh. btw, I cut 1/4” strips for making wood strip canoes, or at least it’s canoe like …..

http://phoenixboatworks.com

View rwe2156's profile

rwe2156

2192 posts in 943 days


#6 posted 06-29-2015 04:26 PM

Nice looking canoe. That square back is like my Ghoenoe. I bought some 1” tubular steel in 20’ lengths, but not straight enough.

I’m thinking rip down 2-8’ strips of ply at least 12” wide then use offset fishing line stretched tight along edge to verify straight. Cut to length and scab leftover on the joint.

Would a 12’ sheet of drywall be straight enough to use to align the plywood?

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

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spidennis

6 posts in 1977 days


#7 posted 06-29-2015 05:00 PM

Problem solved! ...... so in this canoe casket that i build I use 2” wide strips of plywood for the keel and stringers ….. and I had three spares left over ….. perfect! two go end to end with the third one joining them together on top. cost zero! then I’ll use the router to true up the rough edge and then it’s ready for the table saw.

Thanks y’all, it really helps to bounce stuff off someone else vs letting it bounce around inside just your own head sometimes ….

View BinghamtonEd's profile

BinghamtonEd

2281 posts in 1832 days


#8 posted 06-29-2015 05:05 PM

Wait, back up a second…canoe casket?

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

841 posts in 2438 days


#9 posted 06-29-2015 05:14 PM



Wait, back up a second…canoe casket?

- BinghamtonEd

Must be for Boromir :)

View HokieKen's profile

HokieKen

1748 posts in 601 days


#10 posted 06-29-2015 08:12 PM



Wait, back up a second…canoe casket?

- BinghamtonEd

I was wondering why there was a pillow and why there wasn’t a seat or paddles.

-- Kenny, SW VA, Go Hokies!!!

View spidennis's profile

spidennis

6 posts in 1977 days


#11 posted 06-29-2015 08:13 PM

Yup. It’s a canoe casket.
took me awhile to design …...
and just getting around to launching it into the marketplace.
kinda a tough market to crack but I have a lot of potential customers!

Anywhos ….... the plywood straight edge and router did the trick!
but I did find the 3/4” ply at 2” wide did have a bit of flex …
If I was to do this over again I’d make it at least 6” wide to cut down on the flex.
note: I already had the 2” wide stuff ready …...


Wait, back up a second…canoe casket?

- BinghamtonEd


View hotbyte's profile

hotbyte

841 posts in 2438 days


#12 posted 06-29-2015 08:23 PM



Yup. It s a canoe casket.
took me awhile to design …...
and just getting around to launching it into the marketplace.
kinda a tough market to crack but I have a lot of potential customers!

Hope you’re not counting on repeat customers! :) :) :)

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