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Bottom bandsaw wheel knocking/rubbing problem

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Forum topic by leonmcd posted 09-24-2007 08:51 PM 1379 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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leonmcd

204 posts in 2694 days


09-24-2007 08:51 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw wheel problem rubbing

I have a two year old Grizzly 14” bandsaw that has started knocking/rubbing on the bottom wheel. One spoke of the wheel is grazing the end of the drive pully. If I turn by hand it touches. If I pull back and forth on the wheel, I don’t feel any movement but if I pull and turn it stops rubbing. Mighty small clearance between drive pully shaft and wheel spokes.

I haven’t taken it apart to investigate but was wondering where to start. Either the wheel is warped (only one spoke touches), or the wheel bearing is bad (doesn’t feel like it), or the drive pully has moved (doesn’t seem to be loose and don’t know if it can move).

Anyone experienced this type of problem before? I did some internet searches and all I found was the warped wheel problem. Is this a common problem with bandsaws? Seemed fine for the last two years.

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "


14 replies so far

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WayneC

12300 posts in 2820 days


#1 posted 09-24-2007 09:09 PM

Have you got a strait edge that you can use to test the wheel to see if it warped? I would start there I think.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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leonmcd

204 posts in 2694 days


#2 posted 09-24-2007 09:16 PM

I’ll check when I get home this evening. Is this a common problem with two year old bandsaws?

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "

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WayneC

12300 posts in 2820 days


#3 posted 09-24-2007 09:21 PM

It is not something I have seen on my 15 year old delta. But it would be quick to rule out.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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markrules

146 posts in 2838 days


#4 posted 09-24-2007 09:39 PM

After you check to see if the wheels are co-planar, I’d check the pulley on the motor to see if it has moved on the shaft. There is a small set screw holding it in place. It probably can’t move much, but it doesn’t take a lot of movement to create a contact point with the wheel. I’m guessing that the cast wheel isn’t exactly symetrical and that the moved pulley has found the largest spoke. If it hasn’t moved, and can’t be moved back, I’d try putting a extra washer between each mounting bolt on the motor, bringing it back away from the wheel.

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Bob #2

3808 posts in 2744 days


#5 posted 09-25-2007 01:44 AM

If I was a betting man I put a fiver on the belt pulley loosening and slipping over a skootch.

There is nothing else to move unless you have a bent wheel or shaft and that’s highly unlikely.

Pull it off and check it and let us know.

p.s. there is /are one or two set screws on the pulley body that should be contacting the flat of the motor shaft.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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frank

1492 posts in 2928 days


#6 posted 09-25-2007 02:13 AM

Hi Leon;
I have had this happen to me after breaking the blades before and the wheel goes cockeyed from the sudden release of tension. Look to where you adjust the tension on the blade at and see if your wheel won’t pop back into place. Sometimes you have to back out the tension nut some more till you get a good amount of play in the wheel and then it will go into place.

Just some two cents thoughts….and I all-ways look for the simple explanations first, as there is not much to go wrong in that area of the bandsaw.

Thank you.
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://rusticwoodart.tumblr.com/

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Karson

34902 posts in 3123 days


#7 posted 09-25-2007 02:16 AM

I’m betting on one of the Wheel or the pulley has moved on the shaft.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

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frank

1492 posts in 2928 days


#8 posted 09-25-2007 02:17 AM

Hi Leon;
—-well I guess you can disregard my solution from above as I now see that you are talking about the bottom wheel, ....oh well….
GODSPEED,
Frank

-- --frank, NH, http://rusticwoodart.tumblr.com/

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bryano

546 posts in 2656 days


#9 posted 09-25-2007 02:32 AM

I had a problem like this when my blade broke. the rubber on the wheel poped out of its groove and caused a bump. all i had to do was pop it back in place. The first few times i used it afterward it tended to vibrate a little. After a little more use that problem went away on its own.

-- bryano

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leonmcd

204 posts in 2694 days


#10 posted 09-25-2007 02:41 PM

When I got home yesterday, I gave the end of the drive pully a coupla whacks with a rubber mallet. Problem solved. This weekend when I have more time, I’ll look for the set screws and lock it down.

I’m not a betting man either so I won’t send Bob#2 a fiver. Karson also won his bet but I’m not sending him any money either.

Reminds me of the guy that took his car to a mechanic with a transmission problem. The mechanic put the car up on the lift, got a hammer, and gave something two taps, and put the car back down. Sure enough, the transmission was fixed. The guy ask how much he owed and the mechanic told him $101. The guy was outraged! Two taps with a hammer for $101 was robbery! The mechanic explained that the hammer taps only cost $1. So what was the $100 for the guy asked. Knowing where to tap, the mechanic replied.

Thanks for all the input. This LumberJocks thing works pretty well, don’t you think?

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "

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Bob #2

3808 posts in 2744 days


#11 posted 09-25-2007 02:50 PM

Glad we all could help.
That’s what wood forums are for.
This place has some of the most giving folks on the planet.
Tust in case the set screws are a little loose in the threads you could put a bit of locktite on them while you have it apart.
If they have a bit of grab when you tighten them it’s probably not necessary.
Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

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WayneC

12300 posts in 2820 days


#12 posted 09-25-2007 03:08 PM

Reminds me of when I was in the Air Force. We were trying to launch a B-52 and one of the engine coulings would not close. There were two mechanics with the technical manuals out studying them. Going step by step through the process. They were at it for over 30 minutes. As we got close to the time we needed to start engines and it appeared we were going to be late. A chief showed up. He hopped out of his car. One well placed hammer blow and we were on our way.

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

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Dick, & Barb Cain

8693 posts in 3022 days


#13 posted 09-25-2007 05:38 PM

Before you tighten the set screws back it out all the way. Sometimes they use double set screws, to keep them from loosening. Also there may be an indentation where the original setting is. That’s my ten cents worth!

-- -** You are never to old to set another goal or to dream a new dream ****************** Dick, & Barb Cain, Hibbing, MN. http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.com/gallery/member.php?uid=3627&protype=1

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leonmcd

204 posts in 2694 days


#14 posted 09-25-2007 06:01 PM

Dick – Thanks, I’ll check it out before I tighten them.

I must be getting old, I remember when it was ”two cents worth”.

-- Leon -- Houston, TX - " I create all my own designs and it looks like it "

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