Rusted/stuck screws.

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Forum topic by Bill White posted 06-24-2015 09:27 PM 765 views 0 times favorited 19 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Bill White

4406 posts in 3380 days

06-24-2015 09:27 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question tip

What do you do to free rusted or stuck screws?
Just got my 100 year old spoke pointer, and a couple screws are pretty well seized. Been squirting ‘em with WD 40. Just don’t wanna break any castings or twist off the original blade holding screws.
Operators are standing by.


19 replies so far

View ColonelTravis's profile (online now)


1156 posts in 1314 days

#1 posted 06-24-2015 09:38 PM

PB Blaster

View bondogaposis's profile


3969 posts in 1771 days

#2 posted 06-24-2015 09:40 PM

PB Blaster

- ColonelTravis


-- Bondo Gaposis

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile


150 posts in 1862 days

#3 posted 06-24-2015 09:40 PM

WD-40 is not really great for this. Try something like Kroil or PB blaster. Spray it on and let it sit. Sometimes people will spray it on and soak a paper towel in the stuff and let it sit in that.

If this doesn’t work you can also try electrolysis which does a great job of removing rust and freeing stuff up.

Good luck.

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View Kazooman's profile


615 posts in 1372 days

#4 posted 06-24-2015 09:47 PM

There are many other penetrating oil products you can try. I have used liquid Wrench Super Penetrant with good success. Other options include heating the part with a torch if you can do so safely, given the location. Another method that often works is to sort of ” shock” the part to break the rust. Secure the piece well, place a screwdriver that fits very well in the slot and give it a good rap on the handle. More penetrating oil, more shocks, over and over. Have patience, this can be a long process. It took 100 years for the screws to seize. In the end, there are some pieces that have fused together so well that you will never be able to free the parts.

Several posts went up while I was typing. The electrolysis suggestions made me wonder if soaking in Evap-O-Rust would help. Easy to try. If you can’t dip the part you can wrap it with a well soaked cloth and then some plastic wrap.

View josephf's profile


124 posts in 1516 days

#5 posted 06-24-2015 09:50 PM

couple of tricks .heat ,use a torch to expand the metal . i generally skirt oil on the screw as it cools but that might only be impatience .but heat can change to color of the metal or burn paint .
find the center of the screw and slowly drill the center out .once it as close to the threds as you dare go you can use an easy out ,or use a punch to cave it in on itself .
i think i have heard what the previous poster said about WD-40 . it was never what i used anyhow so cannot say from experience . good luck . let me know if you any other questions

View Dallas's profile


3599 posts in 1907 days

#6 posted 06-24-2015 10:44 PM

Drill, easyout, tap.

-- Improvise.... Adapt...... Overcome!

View rwe2156's profile


2116 posts in 901 days

#7 posted 06-24-2015 10:47 PM

You can buy PB blaster as a liquid.
Fill container/immerse tool/fugettaboutit for a week.

Still not coming out: what Dallas said.

-- Everything is a prototype thats why its one of a kind!!

View cutmantom's profile


388 posts in 2455 days

#8 posted 06-24-2015 10:54 PM

Be patient, let it soak

View emart's profile


416 posts in 2048 days

#9 posted 06-24-2015 11:06 PM

This is a trick an old metal worker taught me:
Heat is the most quick way to remove screws. get yourself a burnz-omatic propane torch and heat the screw until the rust turns black then rub a candle on the screw itself. this will draw wax into the threads and help break the rust loose. It will not come out easily at first but keep gently driving the threads back and forth until the screw travels all the way out.

-- tools are only as good as the hands that hold them

View RPhillips's profile


1110 posts in 1256 days

#10 posted 06-24-2015 11:21 PM

Kroil from Kano. best stuff ever for breaking loose stuck fasteners.

-- Rob - Indianapolis IN - Learning... one mistake at a time...

View Tim's profile (online now)


3030 posts in 1381 days

#11 posted 06-24-2015 11:55 PM

Apparently a 50/50 mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone is a more effective penetrating oil than any of the commercially available penetrants. I haven’t tried is since I bought some PB Blaster first and that works pretty well. Patience is key if you don’t want to use heat. Keep soaking and tapping periodical. Some can take weeks.

Kazooman, Evapo-rust can free some stuck things sometimes, but since it’s not a particularly great penetrant, it doesn’t free screws as well since it can get blocked from getting down in the threads.

I’ve also heard of drivers made for freeing stuck screws that basically turn just a little when hit by a hammer. That way it hits it to break free and gets spun out as well. Haven’t used it and not sure of the brand.

View diverlloyd's profile


1254 posts in 1277 days

#12 posted 06-25-2015 01:05 AM

I use straight automatic transmission fluid a couple drops and let is sit then come back and do it again. Usually takes 24hrs of set time

View distrbd's profile


2220 posts in 1866 days

#13 posted 06-25-2015 01:33 AM

1=heat ,it usually works best when everything is made of metal.
2=What Dallas said(Drill, easyout, tap.)

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View bandit571's profile


14064 posts in 2103 days

#14 posted 06-25-2015 02:00 AM

Son has a “Hammerhead” Impact driver, cordless, right angle sort of thing. Soaked a few stubborn bolts in a WD40 flood, then a few “tap,tap,tap..” from the driver, bolts came right out.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

View Bill White's profile (online now)

Bill White

4406 posts in 3380 days

#15 posted 06-25-2015 01:54 PM

Let ‘em soak over night. Took some muscle, but they final came free this AM.
Thanks for all the responses guys.
Now to get out the soda blaster a clean this puppy.


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