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Non-latex paint finishes for HVLP finishing?

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Forum topic by paxorion posted 06-23-2015 08:42 PM 1248 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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paxorion

1100 posts in 1505 days


06-23-2015 08:42 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question finishing hvlp spray gun paint

Reading a recent thread on HVLP comparisons, I’m curious to hear any thoughts and impressions on brands/types of paint suitable for HVLP spray finishing. I’ve done a few projects where I’ve thinned latex paint to spray with my HVLP to get painted color outcome I’ve desired, but the process left a lot to be desired. My qualms with the process include:
  1. I don’t enjoy the thinning process
  2. Latex paint always leaves a sticky feel, so I end up top coating with water-based polyurethane
  3. Between the primer, paint, and poly, I end up with a total of 5+ sprayed coats with, which when adding up the drying time, is a lot of waiting to do
I’m curious if anyone has recommendations for other paint options worth trying. What I am looking for are materials that:
  • Are formulated with a viscosity more suitable for HVLP (not airless) spraying
  • Wouldn’t be ridiculously costly if assuming 2-3 coats per project
  • Can be tinted to get custom colors per the recipient’s desires
  • Preferably water cleanup

From what I know (and experienced) General Finishes milk paint (I believe it’s an acrylic paint?) fits the bill for 3 of the 4 criteria (no tinting options). Tinted lacquer is also an option, but would mean forgoing water cleanup.

-- paxorion


13 replies so far

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3926 posts in 1952 days


#1 posted 06-23-2015 09:31 PM

With oil paints being phased out almost everywhere, the paints I now use for furniture are always 100% acrylic (sometimes called acrylic latex). These dry hard, are very durable and quite easy to spray. If you go to a real paint store they come in bases that allow them to mix any color. I like to apply a coat of primer first, but the paints cover well. The only watch out is that you need to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for thinning. I’ve used some that could be thinned as much as 20% , but most of them are closer to 10%. The sticky feel to which your refer is (I’m guessing) from latex wall paint, which has a property called blocking…that’s the sticky feel. You might find this short article of interest. It will reference name brands.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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paxorion

1100 posts in 1505 days


#2 posted 06-24-2015 12:16 AM


With oil paints being phased out almost everywhere, the paints I now use for furniture are always 100% acrylic (sometimes called acrylic latex). These dry hard, are very durable and quite easy to spray. If you go to a real paint store they come in bases that allow them to mix any color. I like to apply a coat of primer first, but the paints cover well. The only watch out is that you need to follow the manufacturer s instructions for thinning. I ve used some that could be thinned as much as 20% , but most of them are closer to 10%. The sticky feel to which your refer is (I m guessing) from latex wall paint, which has a property called blocking…that s the sticky feel. You might find this short article of interest. It will reference name brands.

- Fred Hargis

Thanks Fred. I figure there was a good chemistry explanation and this goes for it. Good to know what features to look for so I can spread my search out to different brands. There are a few paint stores close to me so it may be worth while to look beyond the big box stores. Any particular ones you gravitate towards?

-- paxorion

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Pezking7p

3097 posts in 1111 days


#3 posted 06-24-2015 12:45 AM

Tinted lacquer. I’ve used sherwin williams pre-cat lacquer but it was somewhat difficult to find (I had to order it from Charlotte and have it delivered). However, it sprayed extremely well and has a beautiful finish and feel. It also dried in 15 minutes or less.

-- -Dan

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firefighterontheside

13435 posts in 1316 days


#4 posted 06-24-2015 12:59 AM

I’ve used Target Coatings tinted lacquer with great results. No need for poly on top. Thinned with water.
I’ll never spray latex or oil based paint again.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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paxorion

1100 posts in 1505 days


#5 posted 06-24-2015 02:13 AM



Tinted lacquer. I ve used sherwin williams pre-cat lacquer but it was somewhat difficult to find (I had to order it from Charlotte and have it delivered). However, it sprayed extremely well and has a beautiful finish and feel. It also dried in 15 minutes or less.

- Pezking7p

I’ve found a few sources for tinted pre-cat lacquer close to me (closer than any big box store). I am curious if you have to do any additional surface prep, or the number of coats you’ve needed to spray to get the desired result on say, poplar or soft maple?

-- paxorion

View Joel J's profile

Joel J

37 posts in 1398 days


#6 posted 06-24-2015 02:14 AM

From my experience, the only way to keep blocking from being a problem is to coat with water based clear poly. On furniture, I use a satin floor poly from HD that has a very nice finish and is very durable. I use if full strength with no thinning. I have used it on kitchen cabinets and a dining room table with great results sprayed through a 2.0 tip. I usually spray the latex through a 2.5 tip. Both guns are gravity fed HVLP and I get great results. The other paint that I have sprayed is SW ProClassic. This paint with a couple of other SW paints do not experience blocking. Lastly, the last trick I use is the following:
10 parts paint, 5 parts windshield washer solvent and 1 part M-1, which is a latex paint additive and extender. Spraying with this formula in my garage gives me “factory finish” level results…...I have yet to be disappointed in any of my results so far. Good luck!

-- Joel, Denver, CO

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Joel J

37 posts in 1398 days


#7 posted 06-24-2015 03:15 PM

Here are some pics of the projects I mentioned above

-- Joel, Denver, CO

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AandCstyle

2559 posts in 1716 days


#8 posted 06-24-2015 10:23 PM

Pax, take a look at Target Coatings EM6500 as Bill suggested. It can be mixed to any color you select by your local BM store although you may need to speak with a knowledgeable person. I love their spray lacquer for the off the gun finish it gives me. It meets all your criteria as well. HTH

-- Art

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paxorion

1100 posts in 1505 days


#9 posted 06-25-2015 12:48 AM



Pax, take a look at Target Coatings EM6500 as Bill suggested. It can be mixed to any color you select by your local BM store although you may need to speak with a knowledgeable person. I love their spray lacquer for the off the gun finish it gives me. It meets all your criteria as well. HTH

- AandCstyle

Thanks Art, I haven’t been able to find any of their retailers or dealers in my neck of the woods yet. Will keep looking.

-- paxorion

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firefighterontheside

13435 posts in 1316 days


#10 posted 06-25-2015 02:03 AM

I had my em6500 shipped and it was still cheaper than the expensive stuff from Sherwin Williams.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

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retfr8flyr

327 posts in 1128 days


#11 posted 06-25-2015 09:33 AM

I was given the windshield washer fluid tip also and I have had great success using it to thin latex paint in my Earlex 6900. I use SW SuperPaint and cut the paint about 10%, it flows on great, without any blocking problems.

-- Earl

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Earlextech

1159 posts in 2150 days


#12 posted 06-25-2015 01:30 PM

Check out Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua water based lacquer. Comes in clear, pigmented to 150 colors, white and black. Fits the bill!

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

View AandCstyle's profile

AandCstyle

2559 posts in 1716 days


#13 posted 06-25-2015 10:52 PM


Thanks Art, I haven t been able to find any of their retailers or dealers in my neck of the woods yet. Will keep looking.
- paxorion

You would have to have it shipped to you from NJ. Oftentimes (maybe always) they have coupons that offset the shipping cost. Shipping for gallons is reasonable, but quarts are cost prohibitive. HTH

-- Art

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