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17" Grizzly Bandsaw Having Hard Time Cutting

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Forum topic by Britztopher posted 06-23-2015 08:17 PM 1043 views 0 times favorited 24 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Britztopher

12 posts in 767 days


06-23-2015 08:17 PM

Topic tags/keywords: bandsaw grizzly

I have a 17inch grizzly with a brand new .5 inch woodslicer blade. For some reason this setup doesnt want to cut through a 4” piece of walnut. It appears like the blade just doesnt want to enter the beginning of the wood on the cut. Almost like the blade is dull, and it doesnt want to cut. Any suggestions why this happens, and what i can do to fix it?


24 replies so far

View AZWoody's profile

AZWoody

697 posts in 688 days


#1 posted 06-23-2015 08:18 PM

May sound stupid but is the blade running in the right direction?

View Drew's profile

Drew

304 posts in 2564 days


#2 posted 06-23-2015 08:25 PM

Yep….. Woodslicers are sent twisted backwards.

-- TruCraftFurniture.com

View Britztopher's profile

Britztopher

12 posts in 767 days


#3 posted 06-24-2015 11:44 AM

Yes blade is in right direction, hook facing down. It cuts easily wood that is about 2.5 inches thick then halts on anything thicker. Also, another note, the walnut Im cutting is sort of green. Would it be because its still about half dry? Im just trying to remove bark from outside.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

3668 posts in 1185 days


#4 posted 06-24-2015 12:01 PM

Do you have any pictures that you could post of your set up, that might help?

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 616 days


#5 posted 06-24-2015 12:01 PM

If I remember right there was a similar post within the past week and someone mentioned there maybe some defective wood slicer band saw blades out there.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2155 days


#6 posted 06-24-2015 01:00 PM

Bark is really hard on blades, particularly if it is dirty. Greener wood requires a lower TPI and deeper gullets to clear sawdust from kerf. Call Timberwolf and ask them to recommend the best blade for what you are doing. Sounds like a 1 TPI would work well.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 616 days


#7 posted 06-24-2015 01:05 PM

May sound stupid but is the blade running in the right direction?
Unless I am missing something, how can you put a BS blade on with the teeth facing up unless the teeth are facing the support bearings

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

13487 posts in 1321 days


#8 posted 06-24-2015 01:09 PM

The blade can be flipped inside out.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View distrbd's profile (online now)

distrbd

2227 posts in 1911 days


#9 posted 06-24-2015 01:15 PM

Please check your tires,if they are rubber, they might have stretched a bit and slip which can cause the blade to slip or cut poorly.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View conifur's profile

conifur

955 posts in 616 days


#10 posted 06-24-2015 01:23 PM

The blade can be flipped inside out.
Ah, I see said the blind man!!!!LOL Thanks, never thought about that.

-- Knowledge and experience equals Wisdom, Michael Frankowski

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 641 days


#11 posted 06-24-2015 01:38 PM

A couple of ideas:

Try regular dry wood of the same thickness and see how it cuts. This will eliminate the question of bark and only partially dry wood. You could glue up some 2x lumber.

I had a friend cut wood with bark (and dirt) it quickly dulled my blade. Try a different blade. Order it from Highland woodworking.

Go through the Alex Snodgrass and make sure you have the bandsaw setup correctly.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View Britztopher's profile

Britztopher

12 posts in 767 days


#12 posted 06-24-2015 05:01 PM

Ill try when i get home today with dry wood. Also, i will call highland and see what would be good for cutting bark off green trees.

View Rayne's profile

Rayne

470 posts in 1004 days


#13 posted 06-24-2015 05:12 PM

Here’s a small possibility as well. Maybe the back of the blade is slightly thicker than the teeth? Unlikely, but who knows. If it is thicker, smaller wood might be o.k. to keep pushing through but with larger, that would be a problem. I’ve seen people sand down the back of the blade for smoother feed. Just a thought.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

3059 posts in 1751 days


#14 posted 06-24-2015 06:23 PM

Could be saw set up. Blade tension, and rear blade bearing. If the bearing is further away from the blade than a paper width, it bends the blade causing it to enter the wood unevenly on thick stock, same can happen if the blade is too loose. Another issue could be you have a blade with 8 or more TPI which might cause it to have trouble ‘biting’ into the wood. I’d recommend a 4 TPI blade at least 3/8”. Timberwolf is a good blade.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#15 posted 06-24-2015 07:37 PM

I’m also going to go with it’s probably the green wood as suggested above. The Woodslicer blade is very thin and has little set. It’s going to struggle with green wood.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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