granite coffee table

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Forum topic by chevy1951 posted 06-23-2015 07:38 PM 1295 views 1 time favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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4 posts in 1796 days

06-23-2015 07:38 PM

A while back my girlfriend and I picked up a steal of a deal on a granite kitchen table set. We are looking into getting a new coffee table, end table set. I talked her into making them. We just bought a slab of granite that will be be 3cm thick and 25”x48” and two pieces of 18”x24”. I have some Kentucky Coffee Bean that I bought for it. My plan is for 3” aprons with 2.5” straight legs (22”tall for end tables, and 16” for the coffee table. I was thinking of doing an interlocking joint (not sure the name for it) for the legs. Thoughts, suggestions, advice?

7 replies so far

View Texcaster's profile


1285 posts in 1698 days

#1 posted 06-23-2015 09:03 PM

That’s a good looking corner, with a 45* corner block pocket screwed and glued in place, it will be very strong.

-- Mama calls me Texcaster but my real name is Mr. Earl.

View Yonak's profile


986 posts in 1546 days

#2 posted 06-23-2015 09:33 PM

Bill, do you think a corner block is necessary with this design ? The leg seems to hold everything in place. It looks strong to me, especially if the aprons were extra wide at the corners.

chevy, if you want the aprons for support they should be flush with the top of the leg. Also, my girlfriend and I used to eat at the coffee table sometimes while watching TV. Our table was 16” and I found that making new legs, raising it to 20”, made it more comfortable to eat at. (Please pardon the preposition at the end of the sentence.)

View chevy1951's profile


4 posts in 1796 days

#3 posted 06-24-2015 04:53 AM

I have not had any experience with slotted joint corners. I know they can be pretty strong. I was already toying with the idea of a corner block, though. According to a granite weight calculator online, the pieces will weigh about 134lbs and 48lbs. I am a bit paranoid about strength. I’d rather over build than under build. I saw the above pic on pinterest and thought it would be a simple, yet sturdy way of making it. The aprons will be screwed to blocks that are glued to the underside of the granite. I figure this will give a strong, yet flexible way of joining the base as well as allow for slightly easier portability when we move in a few years (just unscrew, move,reassemble).
As for the height, I may add a bit. I just based it on the current table we have, but a little extra shouldn’t hurt.
Thanks for the feedback.

View bigblockyeti's profile


5138 posts in 1745 days

#4 posted 06-24-2015 12:22 PM

+1 to having the aprons tight against the granite. Also, I’d be inclined to try to showcase any joinery as best as possible toward the outside of the frame as granite, unlike clear glass, will hide any of your hard work underneath. That joint looks like it should be pretty strong if everything is machined to fit tight. I too am from the same school that it’s better to overbuild if even remotely concerned about strength. I guess you might call it a captive half lap joint?

View BinghamtonEd's profile


2298 posts in 2394 days

#5 posted 06-24-2015 12:36 PM

Another +1 fo4r the aprons flush to the top. I’m assuming the top is going to need some sort of silicone/adhesive to attach it to the base? If so, you’ll need the aprons flush.

-- - The mightiest oak in the forest is just a little nut that held its ground.

View BurlyBob's profile


5551 posts in 2290 days

#6 posted 06-24-2015 02:05 PM

How about cutting that inside corner of the leg and using silicon like Ed suggested. That way you could set the granite inside the corner and still have the aprons for support. You’d also be able to show off the joint.

View Gentile's profile


306 posts in 1843 days

#7 posted 06-24-2015 04:17 PM

I built a table using a piece of slate, an old school chalk board. The front was polished smooth, the back had a natural texture. I used the back for the top. I didn’t glue it to the base as I was worried about the movement of the wood. I attached strips of foam tape (the grey stuff for weather stripping) to the wood and set the slate on top of it. The weight of the slate holds it secure. The slate overlaps the wood frame and is invisible. The foam tape also acts as a cushion.
Nice joinery by the way…

-- "I cut it twice and it's still too short"

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