Freud Premier Fusion P410 TS Blade

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Forum topic by Crickett posted 06-22-2015 08:22 PM 606 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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116 posts in 897 days

06-22-2015 08:22 PM

I was recently at a large geional tool show where a Freud rep came up to me reviewing Tenryu & Forrest blades. He made some valid points for the Freud premier fusion blade and so I bought it for giggles. This thing cross cuts like an absolute dream, but when it came to ripping (as a general purpose 40T) blade should do, I got terrible burning and took more effort to push the piece through the blade. After one day of moderate use, the blade developed a lot of pitch on and around the teeth (which led to more burning). I cleaned it well, put it back to work…. more pitch build it. I’m guessing it the radical tooth grind that it has as opposed to other 40T blades having an ATB grind is the culprit but I’m not certain. I shipped it back to Freud and will have the new one tomorrow, no questions asked. They won’t tell me if it was defective or not, just that I’m getting a warranty replacement. Has anyone had the same problem with this “supposedly” top-choice blade? I’d love to get some feedback. Maybe I should’ve stuck with the old reliable Tenryu Gold Medal.

7 replies so far

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1869 posts in 2107 days

#1 posted 06-22-2015 08:26 PM

If it ain’t broke don’t fix it. Stick with what you know works for you. What was the price compared to the Tenryu .

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116 posts in 897 days

#2 posted 06-22-2015 08:36 PM

Well it’s always best to have mroe than one TS blade for a lot of different reasons. Price-wise, the Freud was $99 (not sure if that was a tool sale promo) and the Gold Medal usually runs about $85-90. Pricing wasn’t really a factor in the purchase.

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1816 posts in 1406 days

#3 posted 06-22-2015 08:46 PM

Yours is not the first report of this problem. There are two versions of this blade…the older one and one marked next generation. Which one do you have. I wrote to Freud about this and they had some suggestions but no real answer.

There was also a recent thread concerning the Infinity Super General and burning on ripping. I wrote them also and the response was that it does well a short ripping on material less than 3/4”.

It sounds to me like both of these blades excel at cross cuts and plywood but not good at ripping.

With my limited knowledge of blades, it appears the requirements of ripping thick wood and extra clean cuts in plywood are quite different. The design has to find the best combination for both and not perfect for either.

Good ripping blades are relatively cheap and cheap to sharpen. The blades for plywood have nineteenth, more complicated tooth design, and more difficult and expensive to sharpen.

My current goal is to buy one of these blades and use it exclusively for plywood and “critical” cross cuts. I will switch to a ripping blade for ripping and general cross cut stuff.

Does anyone have a ripping blade that they think is outstanding? I currently use a Freud glue line rip on my 3 hp cabinet saw.

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116 posts in 897 days

#4 posted 06-22-2015 08:51 PM

To be honest, I think the Tenryu Gold Medal is a bullet proof blade that rips and cross-cuts beautifully. I simply enjoyed the look / feel / sound of the Freud and rolled the dice on it. FYI the one I bought was their newest version. For the price, I could get the Tenryu for less and be more the happy with a blade that can do everything. I can’t wait to get the replacement blade and test it. Believe me, I will let Freud know if this one is a bust too.

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7145 posts in 2793 days

#5 posted 06-22-2015 09:29 PM

The burning is likely due to the dual angle side grind that has very tight side clearances, as opposed to the HiATB top grind. The top grind contributes to the amazing cross-cutting ability and ply-cuts. The side grind essentially puts more carbide on the edge of the cut….if all goes well, the edge of the cut gets a high degree of polish. If the board is too thick, too moist, prone to burning, not flat, or if the feed rate is too slow, and/or the saw’s alignment isn’t spot on, that “polish” can turn to burning pretty easily. In an ideal setup, blades like the Fusion and Super General can give amazingly clean rip cuts, but they’re fussier about all the other variables that contribute to the cut. A higher blade height helps reduce some of the heat build up.

Blades like the WWII 40T, Gold Medal, and Ridge Carbide TS2000 are more efficient at ripping, and less prone to burning. They don’t crosscut as well as the SF or Fusion, and don’t have as much potential for a highly polished edge, but are bit less fussy about setup and technique. A blade like the Infinity Combomax 50T ATB/R is even less fussy about setup and technique…..sort of a set it and forget it type blade.

The WWII 30T is a very respectable clean cutting rip blade up to 2+ inches or so if you saw has enough power. For much over 2”, a 20-24T rip blade is recommended.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Drew's profile


290 posts in 2517 days

#6 posted 06-22-2015 09:47 PM

I have several of the original versions of this blade (no experience with the newer version). I find it to be a pretty good combo blade on a table saw as long as you keep your stock under 1” thick.

It also works better than expected on a chop saw…. slider and non. It does like to throw small cut offs more than most blades though. I have sharpened them many times too.

Certainly not as good as using the correct blade for each task, but a worthy multi-use blade.


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1591 posts in 841 days

#7 posted 06-23-2015 02:37 PM

I am a big fan of the Premier Fusion blades. It is my go to blade in my table saw for all my work.

In fact, I can rip boards so cleanly that they do not need to go to the joiner afterwards for glue up.

I do believe I own the older version of this blade.

Thanks for the input and your experience with the new blade. Keep us posted on how the replacement blade performs.

-- Brad, Texas,

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