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Forum topic by SirIrb posted 06-22-2015 02:03 PM 1851 views 0 times favorited 50 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


06-22-2015 02:03 PM

Jocks,
Here is my Unisaw gloat. It is cont. because I had previously posted pics of the saw here http://lumberjocks.com/topics/102858 to get an age for the saw. I had previously thought it would have been a 60’s or 70’s model. But thanks to Jock help I found it was a 1948 model. Yes, the original motor (which I will sell), motor cover and dust door came with it.

I have since made the trip from where it sat for 3 years (about a half mile off the water in South Mississippi; this scared me) to home in NC. I spent yesterday afternoon breaking the saw down.

I removed the roller table (for sale if someone wants it), the top and wings, the plinth and fence. I spent some time trying to remove some rust and I got the top nice and shiny but will take the plinth and top to have it sand blasted (on the top I will only get the bottom and edges cleaned up).

The rest of the stuff I got from this deal was a 3hp Baldor motor which was just rewound, 4 or so miter gauges, a box of router bits, clamps, some 10 and 12 inch blades (12 inch blades for sale), a screw gun and a 1/2” router.

I will keep this thread alive with the rebuild.

Thinking about using hammered Iron black on the plinth, fence and top edges with the cabinet hammered grey.

Thanks for all the assistance while I was trying to find information on this saw.

Now, I hope PhotoSuckit works for the pics.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.


50 replies so far

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#1 posted 06-22-2015 02:04 PM

Sorry about the pics being cut off on the side.

EDIT: Also looking for the factory switch for this thing if someone has one and wants to trade/ sell.

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4450 posts in 3422 days


#2 posted 06-22-2015 02:49 PM

You’re gonna be a busy boy for a while. Great sawdust collection in the saw, and the router bits will make good sling shot ammo.
I’ll be lookin’ for the resto pics.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#3 posted 06-22-2015 02:56 PM

I was thinking about trying citric acid on the blades and bits to see if I could clean them a bit. They still turn well but, yes, real ugly.

This will take some time. But I look forward to it.

Told my son who is 6 “This will be yours one day [cough] when i am good and dead [cough]”.


You re gonna be a busy boy for a while. Great sawdust collection in the saw, and the router bits will make good sling shot ammo.
I ll be lookin for the resto pics.
Bill

- Bill White


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

4216 posts in 1661 days


#4 posted 06-22-2015 03:25 PM

Throw those bits in a tub of evaporrust and they will shine right up.. or give ‘em an electrolysis bath. You could also use electrolysis for the plinth and other cabinet parts instead of sending them out to be sandblasted.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If you haven’t already, head on over to the OWWM site… they love Uni’s :)

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#5 posted 06-22-2015 03:51 PM

Thanks for the evaporust. I may try that on some stuff. But that old paint…thats what I want to get off. Evaporust work on that? What would if not?


Throw those bits in a tub of evaporrust and they will shine right up.. or give em an electrolysis bath. You could also use electrolysis for the plinth and other cabinet parts instead of sending them out to be sandblasted.

Cheers,
Brad

PS: If you haven t already, head on over to the OWWM site… they love Uni s :)

- MrUnix


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

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MrUnix

4216 posts in 1661 days


#6 posted 06-22-2015 04:28 PM

Yeah, evaporust will basically just remove rust and leave everything else alone… but electrolysis will remove rust and paint, or at least make it so it just flakes off easily. And once you are set up for electrolysis, you can de-rust all the other stuff you have as well.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3932 posts in 1955 days


#7 posted 06-22-2015 08:54 PM

You obviously love that saw, and I really like when someone has a plan come together. You might ask about the switch over at OWWM, they have some guys who have piles of parts. Be a good place to post the bullet motor for sale as well.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#8 posted 06-23-2015 11:45 AM

Thanks, Unix. I have some research to do about electrolysis.

A friend of mines dad is an aircraft mech. My bud brought some of that double regulated airplane degreaser over last night. It is supposed to remove steel from paint. Not for Unisaw lead based paint it wont. So it is either elbow grease and a wire brush, sandblast or electrolysis. I hate the thought of $100 minimum for sandblasting.


Yeah, evaporust will basically just remove rust and leave everything else alone… but electrolysis will remove rust and paint, or at least make it so it just flakes off easily. And once you are set up for electrolysis, you can de-rust all the other stuff you have as well.

Cheers,
Brad

- MrUnix

Fred,
Funny you say that. I have seen that there is a PM Vs Delta debate with the same passion as Ford Vs Chevy. I have always been a PM guy. I love green and gold. But the thought of restoring this seems to be where the love is. (I know, the unisaw is [?was?] made in Tupelo and I should show more respect to the home state.)

Then the thought hit me: restore and sell then buy a PM. I dont think i could do that. Like raising kids so they can live with another family.

I already have interest in the motor and the roller table. I will keep searching the OWWM for the switch.

Thanks again,


You obviously love that saw, and I really like when someone has a plan come together. You might ask about the switch over at OWWM, they have some guys who have piles of parts. Be a good place to post the bullet motor for sale as well.

- Fred Hargis

-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View chrisstef's profile

chrisstef

15660 posts in 2468 days


#9 posted 06-23-2015 12:15 PM

Irbles – when we get contracted to strip lead paint off of steel beams and columns we use this stuff. You’re going to want really really good ventilation, a respirator, and a couple layers of gloves though. I haven’t seen much that it wont strip. It even gets that red primer they bake onto structural steel.

-- rock, chalk, jayhawk

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#10 posted 06-23-2015 12:22 PM

Wow, even the red primer. That has to be the stuff. Thanks. It will either be that or ROS (on the cabinet). I will try the ROS first just to see if it is easy. The plinth will be a beast.
Thanks for the heads up.


Irbles – when we get contracted to strip lead paint off of steel beams and columns we use this stuff. You re going to want really really good ventilation, a respirator, and a couple layers of gloves though. I haven t seen much that it wont strip. It even gets that red primer they bake onto structural steel.

- chrisstef


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile

Newbiewoodworker43

150 posts in 1904 days


#11 posted 06-23-2015 01:09 PM

In restoring my 1946 Unisaw I removed the paint and rust on the cabinet with an angle grinder that I put a wire wheel on. It worked great but kicked up a tone of dust. It was faster than using a wire wheel in a drill press. I also used some wet/dry sand paper on the cabinet.

I am in the middle of painting it now.

The good news is that I noticed that the motor opening on your unisaw has already been cut from the original shape so it will probably fit that other motor.

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

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SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#12 posted 06-23-2015 01:12 PM

Yes, it has been opened up. Problem is that it seems they used an axe. Ok, not that bad but it will take a little time to true it up. Yes it will be covered. No it isnt that important. I just wouldnt be able to sleep at night if I didnt.

Thanks for the wire wheel. I have thought about it and the only reason I didnt use that to begin with is that I didnt see them at lowes but did see the one that looks like a 3M pad. It works ok but doesnt get in the little groves well.


In restoring my 1946 Unisaw I removed the paint and rust on the cabinet with an angle grinder that I put a wire wheel on. It worked great but kicked up a tone of dust. It was faster than using a wire wheel in a drill press. I also used some wet/dry sand paper on the cabinet.

I am in the middle of painting it now.

The good news is that I noticed that the motor opening on your unisaw has already been cut from the original shape so it will probably fit that other motor.

- Newbiewoodworker43


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile

Newbiewoodworker43

150 posts in 1904 days


#13 posted 06-23-2015 02:46 PM

I was just looking over my thread on OWWM on my restoration and I had forgotten that to get the paint off I first used a Citrus based paint stripper. It worked really well and does not have nasty fumes. I followed that up with wet/dry sand paper with mineral sprits as the lubricant as opposed to WD-40 and scotchbrite, the purple/red and then the gray.

I used the angle grinder and wire wheel on the internal parts.

Sorry about that.

You can find an original switch box, switch, and cover plate but it will cost around $100-$150. They are hard to find.
Howard

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

View SirIrb's profile

SirIrb

1239 posts in 692 days


#14 posted 06-23-2015 03:18 PM

Howard,
Can you give me the link at OWWM, please? I would love to see your progress.


I was just looking over my thread on OWWM on my restoration and I had forgotten that to get the paint off I first used a Citrus based paint stripper. It worked really well and does not have nasty fumes. I followed that up with wet/dry sand paper with mineral sprits as the lubricant as opposed to WD-40 and scotchbrite, the purple/red and then the gray.

I used the angle grinder and wire wheel on the internal parts.

Sorry about that.

You can find an original switch box, switch, and cover plate but it will cost around $100-$150. They are hard to find.
Howard

- Newbiewoodworker43


-- Don't blame me, I voted for no one.

View Newbiewoodworker43's profile

Newbiewoodworker43

150 posts in 1904 days


#15 posted 06-23-2015 03:39 PM

sure, here it is

http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=153044&start=45

I haven’t updated it in a while. I have the cabinet, goose egg motor cover and plinth primed and the inside of each has been painted. Also the internal parts have been primed and painted. The bullet motor has been refurbished and repainted.

This is my first unisaw restore. There are lots of threads on restoring unisaws on OWWM.org

-- ---Howard, Amesbury MA

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