What to make router templates out of

Furriness probably doesn’t matter for a router template in the case of MDF. The 1/128” that it could possibly add would be negligible. I’ve had pretty good success with 1/4” hardboard. As long as your bearing will fit on it it’s easy to cut with a scroll/band saw and stiff enough.

I like 1/8 inch tempered hardboard (Masonite.)

-- Joe

I’ve always used 1/2” MDF with good success so I haven’t experimented with anything else. Sands and shapes easily enough and holds a smooth edge for routing.

The material you use might depend on how durable the template has to be. If it is going to be used a lot, then I would recommend tempered hardboard as Joe did. If it’s a limited use, the 1/4” MDF is a good choice.

-- Mike, American in Norway

My 2 cents: Why not laminate 2 pieces of 1/4” tempered hardboard (Masonite) together that would give you almost 1/2” of surface for your bearing to ride on? If you left the shiny side out there would be no finishing involved and you’d have a good surface on either side for the double stick tape…..Masonite is fairly economical.

-- Only the Shadow knows....................

I like 1/2” MDF for templates. I find that really thin stuff can get between the bearing and cutter when using a flush trim bit. If you need a more durable surface for the bearing/bushing to ride against, you could cut the template a hair undersized and glue on a strip of plastic laminate. That would help even out little tiny bumps you might have in the template from sawing it out, too.

-- Until you spread your wings, you'll have no idea how far you can walk.

Anything flat. MDF, tempered hardboard.

Lexan if you want to use it forever.

-- Gary, East TX -- The longest journey begins with a single step.

Have you considered plastic? Clear plexi can be found at the big box stores in small (2’ x 2’ or so) pieces. You can find 1/4” thick stuff and then you can see very well where you are about to cut. I think its nice to be able to see “both sides” of the line.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.

sounds like I need to find some hardboard. I’d love to do the lexan thing, but my experience with it has not been good. This is mostly because I don’t have the right tools to cut it, and I’d rather not invest in that stuff. Thanks everyone. I’ll let you know how it all comes out.

I use a lot of MDF and some Plexiglas for more permanent templates. If you’re having trouble sanding MDF, there is a difference in brands and type. I only use Plum Creek 2. It sands really well. it is denser than some others. Not all MDF is created equal.

-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!

masonite… I just have too much of it.. and it has a smooth surface, thin, and easy to machine, works great!

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

well, i tried lowes for hardboard today, but all they had was perforated stuff. thats obviously not going to work. I guess I’ll try some of my scrap mdf after all. I really wanted to try something better, but oh well. I think the real winner would have been if I could have found that platic that everyone uses for jigs (looks like a cutting board material), but I didn’t run accross that either. Oh well, back to work with what I could find.

1/2” baltic birch (drawer material) doesn’t work to bad, as an alternative.

1/2” MDF works for me…

1/4” lexan/Plexiglas if I need to see through it.

I haven’t needed any ‘forever’ patterns, yet, but would consider Phenolic sheet like:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1989583&PMT4NO=71200593

-- Dane, Fairview Pk, OH. The large print giveth and the small print taketh away...

are you talking about HDPE High-density polyethylene? That stuff is used a lot. If you google plastic dealers you will probably find one in your area. Near St. Louis there are a few that sell this stuff like sheet goods.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.

or you could go to a box store,
and buy a plastic cutting board ?

-- david ,new mexico ,allheart

I’ll agree with most. It depends. I use hardboard mostly as it is fairly durable, cheap, and easy to tool. However, if I was making a template that would be used many times over the years, I might upgrade to a plastic for where and tear reasons. Melamine is another option, harsher on the tools though.

About Lowes, I’ve had better luck with Home Depot for MDF and Hardboard. They have both in many sizes and such. My Lowe’s pretty much only has the 4’x8’ sheets.

-- Jeff, South Carolina

I’ll second Jeff, Lowes stores around here have very poor (seriously) selection of lumber and sheet goods… very poor! you can’t even find birch plywood. HD on the other hand have a much better selection.

I found my stash of masonite from a logistics company that moves/transports crates of wine. they pad the pallets with sheets (40”x48”) of masonite/hardboard to protect the wine crates from damage. once transported, they discard the masonite sheets. instead of dumping them – they post it on craigslist for anyone that wants them… you might be able to find a similar company in your neck of the woods, but considering the low cost of masonite sheets – not sure it’s worth it , unless you really like the idea of recycling, and helping the environment.

-- When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

ok,
i got a 2×4 sheet of tempered hardboard at HD. it was $6. I’m really hoping this will work well. I’ll let you guys know. Thanks for the help!

Lowes just plain sucks. Over priced, poor selection and inferior products. I like 1/2” MDF for quick and easy templates, but if I need a more permanent solution, a constantly repeatable template, then I use 1/2” prefinished cabinet plywood or 1/4 clear acrylic. I even have one (somewhere) I made out of a scrap piece of 1/4” corian. I have a friend who works at a counter top fabricator and occasionaly I get some nice scrap pieces. Make good job site templates, real rugged.

-- Easy Peasy Lemon Squeezy-May all your dovetails fit tight and right the first time