Jorgensen vise handle sheared off, need advise

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Forum topic by bobasaurus posted 06-22-2015 02:56 AM 1234 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3446 posts in 3181 days

06-22-2015 02:56 AM

I have an old Jorgensen vise on my workbench that looks a bit like this:

Today, the handle on the left and its encasing tube sheared off of the main acme screw rod somehow. It was a 1/4” steel dowel/rod riveted through the shaft that broke. Any suggestions for a replacement? There are a lot of options on McMaster and other websites for steel rod, pins, dowels, etc and I don’t know which would be best to resist shearing force in the future.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

11 replies so far

View bobasaurus's profile


3446 posts in 3181 days

#1 posted 06-22-2015 03:03 AM

Here is the handle that sheared off and the remaining nub of the original rod after I ground off the rivet head and tapped it out of the handle housing:

Here’s the remaining steel rod in the acme screw that I haven’t tapped out yet:

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View TheFridge's profile


9454 posts in 1483 days

#2 posted 06-22-2015 04:12 AM

Hardened rod maybe? Shot in the dark.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4985 posts in 2490 days

#3 posted 06-22-2015 01:23 PM

I think I would just try to get a grade 8 bolt/nut that would fit in that hole and put that in. If you use a pin like they did you’ll have to peen the ends, and the bolt will easy to replace if it happens to break. If you stick with the pin, you could probably get in touch with Jorgy and get one from them.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View WoodNSawdust's profile


1417 posts in 1173 days

#4 posted 06-22-2015 01:31 PM

My vice used a rolled pin like this

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View JayT's profile


5626 posts in 2208 days

#5 posted 06-22-2015 01:35 PM

+1 on the roll pin

I’ve also used a taper pin, but prefer the roll pin.

-- In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock. Thomas Jefferson

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4929 posts in 3957 days

#6 posted 06-22-2015 02:34 PM

Yep! Roll pin, and quit lifting weights. You’re strong enough. :)


View waho6o9's profile


8189 posts in 2574 days

#7 posted 06-22-2015 03:25 PM

Does anyone know the difference between a roll pin

and an expansion pin?

I looked it up and they look similar so I was wondering what’s the difference?

View bobasaurus's profile


3446 posts in 3181 days

#8 posted 06-22-2015 04:07 PM

Okay, I bought some 1/4” roll pins on the way into work this morning. I’ll give them a try when I get home. Hopefully they’re strong enough not to shear in two… if they fail I’ll go for a hardened dowel.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

View crank49's profile


4030 posts in 2968 days

#9 posted 06-23-2015 03:43 AM

You want the pin to shear before the end of the acme thread rod gets twisted into. Pins are a whole bunch cheaper than acme thread rods. Thats why they call them “shear pins”. They are expendable torque limiters.

View exelectrician's profile


2327 posts in 2424 days

#10 posted 06-23-2015 05:15 AM

The pin is designed to shear if you reef on the handle like a 19 year old teenager trying to crush something that does not belong in a vise.
Put in the recommended spare pin from Jorgensen, and do not allow unauthorized use by others in the household.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View bobasaurus's profile


3446 posts in 3181 days

#11 posted 06-23-2015 05:27 AM

Good call, I’ll look into getting a proper replacement pin. I was cranking on it pretty hard to get some inlays to set in my imperfect cutouts. I probably shouldn’t use it as a clamp, but it happens sometimes. The roll pin is working for now and will let me finish my current project at least.

-- Allen, Colorado (Instagram @bobasaurus_woodworking)

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