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Repairing plastic handwheels

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Forum topic by Octavius posted 09-22-2009 02:00 AM 1404 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Octavius

55 posts in 2640 days


09-22-2009 02:00 AM

Hi folks,

Moving forward with the renovation of the Craftsman table saw.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/10325

Is it possible to repair those cracks?
I’m thinking of SuperGluing and then fitting to the shaft and drilling a hole through the knob and shaft and inserting a screw.

Cheers


18 replies so far

View lew's profile

lew

11347 posts in 3222 days


#1 posted 09-22-2009 02:05 AM

I don’t think super glue will be strong enough.

Depending on the type of plastic, there may be a glue that will act a solvent and “melt” the pieces together. I used to make underwater camera cases and the Plexiglas was glued together with this type of glue.

Another possibility MAY be to take it to an auto body shop. Some shops have a plastic “welding” machine to repair the newer car body parts. They might be able to help.

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View Karson's profile

Karson

35035 posts in 3867 days


#2 posted 09-22-2009 02:24 AM

Epoxy might be better than super glue. The plastic welding machines use heated air to melt the plastic and then use a plastic rod to fill in any gaps. It might work, I don’t know the strength of plastic welding.

-- I've been blessed with a father who liked to tinker in wood, and a wife who lets me tinker in wood. Southern Delaware soon moving to Virginia karsonwm@gmail.com †

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 3164 days


#3 posted 09-22-2009 02:51 AM

Get yourself some Loctite super glue and I am sure it will hold.
You have to clean it good ,I glued steel with it.

View mmax's profile

mmax

177 posts in 2922 days


#4 posted 09-22-2009 03:16 AM

Get some J-B Weld two part expoxy. The stuff is amazing.

-- Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else

View fredf's profile

fredf

495 posts in 3177 days


#5 posted 09-22-2009 03:26 AM

a ring of tubing that will press over the hub would be a good reinforcement. rought up hub, coat with epoxy (and in cracks) and press ring on; fill around the bevel.

-- Fred, Springfield, Ma

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 3164 days


#6 posted 09-22-2009 04:00 AM

I know you guys all like Epoxy I did too until I discovered Loctite super glue.
That stuff will weld anything.

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 3164 days


#7 posted 09-22-2009 04:06 AM

Something like Fred said too with the glue press a bushing over for more strength.

View DaneJ's profile

DaneJ

56 posts in 2675 days


#8 posted 09-22-2009 05:19 AM

go with the sleeve(tubing) and epoxy

Many times the hex has a taper to it so that it can be released from the mold… this kind of cracking(peak of hex) may be caused by overtightening the the bolt that holds it on the shaft.

-- Dane, Fairview Pk, OH. The large print giveth and the small print taketh away... Tom Waits

View Dan Lyke's profile

Dan Lyke

1510 posts in 3592 days


#9 posted 09-22-2009 05:34 AM

I’d check out a chloroform based solvent to weld it, see if it’ll melt with that plastic. Otherwise, make a replacement out of a good void-free plywood…

I doubt epoxy will hold that plastic for very long, if you can’t find a solvent that’ll weld it cyanoacrylate (ie: “super glue”) might work, but I think that’d just be a temporary fix.

-- Dan Lyke, Petaluma California, http://www.flutterby.net/User:DanLyke

View Octavius's profile

Octavius

55 posts in 2640 days


#10 posted 09-22-2009 01:59 PM

Wow!
Thanks for all the replies!
Let me ponder and I’ll show you what I come up with.
Cheers

View GMman's profile

GMman

3902 posts in 3164 days


#11 posted 09-22-2009 05:12 PM

Anyone who thinks that epoxy will work I say no way epoxy for me is a waste of time.
Go with loctite super glue it is 100% better than epoxy.

View Bob #2's profile

Bob #2

3809 posts in 3488 days


#12 posted 09-22-2009 05:15 PM

I’d try to buy a new one and keep the repaired one for a spare.

Bob

-- A mind, like a home, is furnished by its owner

View WibblyPig's profile

WibblyPig

168 posts in 2741 days


#13 posted 09-22-2009 05:25 PM

Try Grainger and get a metal one – probably 15-30 bucks.

-- Steve, Webster Groves, MO "A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they know they shall never sit in."

View SCOTSMAN's profile

SCOTSMAN

5839 posts in 3052 days


#14 posted 09-22-2009 05:58 PM

Yes my 3 cents bin it and buy new it will never be the same again they are made cheap and disposable for a few dollars get a new one that’s what BIG AL would do and I know him like I know myself.Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease

View Octavius's profile

Octavius

55 posts in 2640 days


#15 posted 09-24-2009 04:39 AM

Thanks again for the comments and suggestions – all duly noted.

I had a message asking how it has turned out.

Well, I’m still kind of working on it. I’ve used Loctite Super Glue in the actual cracks and then used a hose clamp (as suggested by bentlyj) to close up the gap while the glue dried. The plan is next to find some kind of bushing and epoxy it in (I have some JB Weld someplace).

Actually, it just might hold up with the superglue – I believe I have fixed the cause of the stiffness that caused the previous owner to crack the handles in the first place. If none of this works in the long run, I’ll just buy some news wheel handles, as suggested.

In other news, I’ve now totally re-assembled the saw and tried it at cross cutting a piece of pine – seems to work just fine. Quite pleased with myself. Plus the saw is not super loud (being belt driven). Still got some more stuff to do on it. It came w/o a blade guard and the very least I think a splitter would be in order. Trouble is all these extras add up – I’d like a new saw blade (instead of borrowing one from my miter saw), a zero-whatsit throat plate, that fancy splitter that fits in the throat plate, machined pulleys and that special belt and maybe that PALS setup.

Oh yeah, you’re going to hate me. I was fussing with that saw blade/ miter channel alignment – you know, tapping the trunnions, and all that. Using a dial indicator I got it to where I thought was good enough and then I tightened down all six trunnion bolts. When re-checked with the dial indicator, it was dead nuts on!! Front of blade showed 86.5 thou, rotated blade back and got 86.5!

Cheers for now.

showing 1 through 15 of 18 replies

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