Woodworker II on a benchtop table saw?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by HokieMojo posted 09-14-2009 07:22 PM 1605 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View HokieMojo's profile


2103 posts in 3150 days

09-14-2009 07:22 PM

I’ve got a ridgid benchtop saw and I’ve been using a dewalt ripping blad on it. I’ve done all my crosscuts with my mitre saw (or a circular saw if I need to make a wide cut). Please resist the urge to suggest a better table saw. That’s not an option right now. Not even used.

I’m just wondering if people think a woodworker 2 would yield any benefits or if it would be like putting racing slicks on the family minivan. I haven’t been thrilled with the quality of my cuts although i think it is probably more due to my technique than the saw or its setup. any advice will be appreciated.

10 replies so far

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#1 posted 09-14-2009 07:38 PM

A WWII would probably cut nicely with that saw and should be an improvement, but it might be a little overkill for it. There are some very nice $40-$70 blades that might be a happy medium for your situation, depending on what you plan to cut and the cut quality you need.

General purpose and combo blades like the Infinity 010-150 (on sale for $60), Freud LU83R010 or LU86R010, DeWalt DW7140 or DW7150, all represent really good performance per dollar spent, with the Infinity being the most expensive and the best of those I’ve tried…it’ll rival the WWII, and the others will come close.

There are some excellent 60T blades that have positive hook angles and rip well to ~ 5/4” and 6/4” that actually leave a cleaner cut than my 40T WWII, cost less, and work well as general purpose blades up to those thicknesses. The Infinity 010-060 60T Hi-ATB is amazing in crosscuts and ply, and still rips very cleanly and reasonably efficiently to ~ 5/4”. The Freud LU88R010 is also excellent crosscuts and ply, and still rips very cleanly and reasonably efficiently to ~ 6/4”. For cleaner cuts, these would be my pick, especially the 010-060 if you lean more toward clean ply and crosscuts. Both would be a great compliment to a 24T ripper used for thick rips.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View CharlieM1958's profile


16229 posts in 3640 days

#2 posted 09-14-2009 07:40 PM

I don’t know if you’ll see a huge improvement, but it couldn’t hurt. And that blade should still be around whenever you DO get the chance to upgrade your saw.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View spaids's profile


699 posts in 3115 days

#3 posted 09-14-2009 07:42 PM

I’m just a beginner so my advice should be only loosely considered.

You know if the saw has a a fence that you can lock down and it stays repeatably parallel then you should be able to align that saw. Now how much vibration does it give you? If its not vibrating too much and you can tune it up then it should be able to give you clean cuts. I’ve heard that at least some Dewalt blades are coming out of the same factory that much more expensive blades come from. I can’t say if the blade upgrade is what the saw needs but its not gonna hurt. Maybe we should talk more about your cuts and what you do and don’t like about what your getting. Is it excessive saw marks or chip out or what else might you have going on? I have seen some impressive work from guys on lumberjocks and bench top saws so I think we can get you there.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

View Czapala's profile


8 posts in 2617 days

#4 posted 09-14-2009 07:42 PM

Seeing as I am borrowing a TS to do projects right now I would also be interested. I plan on buying a TS at some point. I had a thought of buying a good blade to use in my friends TS and then I would have a good blade when I got around to getting my own.

View PurpLev's profile


8523 posts in 3070 days

#5 posted 09-14-2009 07:55 PM

I used the WWII with the Bosch 4100 portable saw , and the motor handled that HEAVY blade very well – definitely was an improvement over the factory blade that came with the saw. and you’ll also have that blade if you ever upgrade your saw – so either way it’s a good investment. I got mine on Amazon for $80 …

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3244 days

#6 posted 09-14-2009 08:00 PM

I bought a Dewalt blade for my old 1.5 hp (maybe when it was new) Craftsman saw because I had my Forrest blades out for sharpening. I made just a few cuts with it and put it back on the shelf since it did not cut anywhere close to a Forrest blade. Even though the Dewalt was a new blade it was duller than the Forrest blades I had sent off for sharpening. I ended up giving it away.

So could you get better performance with a WWII, from my experience there is no question that you will see an improvement in your saw’s performance.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#7 posted 09-14-2009 09:45 PM

It’s worth noting that DeWalt makes multiple levels of saw blades, so to compare apples to apples, you need to compare DeWalt’s best to the Forrest. Their cheaper construction series isnt’ suitable for fine wwing IMHO, and comparing those to a Forrest is an apples to lemons scenario. DW’s “Precision Trim” (PT) series blades are very good performers and represent good value, and their former series 60 blades are excellent. The series 60 blades appear to have morphed into the current Delta industrial line….ie: the DW7657 became the Delta 35-7657, and the DW7640 became the Delta 35-7640.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View HokieMojo's profile


2103 posts in 3150 days

#8 posted 09-15-2009 11:07 PM

Thanks you all so much for the replies. There is a lot to think about here. I don’t think my saw vibrates much for a benchtop saw. I’ve heard of the nickel test, but I’m not sure how to do it. I think I could start the saw, then balance a nickel without it tipping to the side, but it would probably start rolling and it would definitely topple if I balanced it then started it.

I think what I’ll do is put the Forrest on my wish list for my birthday and just let people know that they should hold out till it is around $80 at amazon before ordering (which it hits from time to time). Then I’ll have a good combo blade and can build a crosscut sled or two.

In the meantime, I just cleaned all my saw blades, but they weren’t bad to start. maybe that will give me minimal improvements. Thanks so much for all the responses!

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#9 posted 09-16-2009 12:14 AM

FWIW, Holbren sells the Ridge Carbide TS2000 (full or TK) for ~ $81 shipped with “SMC10” discount code. That blade is every bit the equal of a WWII, plus has thicker carbide. Like the WWII, it’s made in the US, and offers both 1/8” and 3/32” kerfs. The design is as similar to the WWII’s as any I know of, and they grind to 1200 grit.

Just more food for thought in case you didn’t have enough info to mull thru!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View HokieMojo's profile


2103 posts in 3150 days

#10 posted 09-16-2009 05:52 PM

Thanks Rob,
I sent you a PM.

I appreciate all your help. Have you ever dealt with their customer service and if so, how have they been? On a side note, I love your website. Very informative.


Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics