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Blade Recommendations for 17" Bandsaw and 12" Resaw/Milling

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Forum topic by Keith Kelly posted 06-09-2015 03:39 PM 714 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Keith Kelly

223 posts in 1128 days


06-09-2015 03:39 PM

What is a good milling blade for a 17 inch bandsaw at full 12” capacity?

I found one at Timberwolf that was a 1 TPI, but it was only recommended for 18” and up wheels.

I may be after a couple blades:
1) resawing 12” stock
2) milling small logs into lumber (most will be green)

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com


10 replies so far

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

493 posts in 2786 days


#1 posted 06-09-2015 10:41 PM

The key for green wood is lots of set. If you want to stay with TW just look on their catalog page in the green wood section and IIRC they have a 2TPI blade that would work well. The 1TPI is a bi-metal blade and takes a LOT of tension to work correctly.

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ColonelTravis

1191 posts in 1358 days


#2 posted 06-09-2015 11:26 PM

Keith, I have the same question as you. Getting the same saw as you, too (although I wish I could get it at You Suck! pricing.) Sorry, I don’t have answers, but are you going to cut curves with your saw? Do you need yet another blade for that sort of thing?

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2155 days


#3 posted 06-10-2015 12:41 AM

I have the TW 1”, 1TPI blade (not bi-metallic) that I use for sawing logs. For resawing dried wood, I use the TW 3/4”, 2-3 variable tooth, bi-metallic blade. It is a little pricey but cuts like a dream and is supposed to outlast 10 carbon blades (no dulling after resawing a LOT of Jatoba which is really hard). I have the 17” Grizzly Extreme Series BS.

Colonel Travis, You will need narrower blades to cut curves (1/4-3/8” depending on how tight a radius you need). I have some 1/8 and 3/16” blades but they are difficult to track on my big saw unless I use the Carter Stabilizer.

Last bit of advice: call Timberwolf and tell them what you want the blade to do and they will suggest the best blade for the application. And they have never given me bad advice.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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ElChe

630 posts in 801 days


#4 posted 06-10-2015 02:13 AM

Kerfmaster sold by Spectrum Supply for resawing. Way cheaper than Woodslicer. For green wood you want a thicker blade like .032 with an aggressive set.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

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AHuxley

493 posts in 2786 days


#5 posted 06-10-2015 02:21 AM



Kerfmaster sold by Spectrum Supply for resawing. Way cheaper than Woodslicer. For green wood you want a thicker blade like .032 with an aggressive set.

- ElChe

The Kerfmaster and Woodslicer are the same bandstock but the Kerfmaster is much cheaper, however, these are the about the last blade you want to cut green wood as you point out, you need a blade with a lot of set, that also brings up the question of horsepower. Blades with a lot of set (resulting in a wide kerf) take more horsepower since more wood is being removed. Depending on the species of wood this saw may struggle to maintain (what I think) is a reasonable feedrate.

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Keith Kelly

223 posts in 1128 days


#6 posted 06-10-2015 02:51 AM

Good points.

gfadvm – that bi-metal blade is the one I was eyeballing, but mentions that it shouldn’t be used on saws that are under 18”. This one, right? http://timberwolfblades.com/proddetail.php?prod=M3423VPC

Re: spectrum supply, their blades are great prices, but their shipping prices are quite high.

Also, where did you find the 1” 1TPI blade (non-bi-metal) from TW?

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

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gfadvm

14940 posts in 2155 days


#7 posted 06-10-2015 03:11 AM

Keith, Yes, that is the 3/4” blade that I use. I don’t buy from a catalog. I just called and told them the problem I was having with slow sawing/burning and they recommended the 1 TPI and the 3/4” blades for my 2 applications. I can’t tell you an order/part #. My 1”, 1TPI has REALLY deep gullets which clears a lot of sawdust.

I think the “no smaller than 18” is a guideline only as they work just fine on my 17”er.

I have also never felt like my motor was laboring with either of these blades. The feed rate is faster than I would have believed. The 1TPI cuts as fast as the rip blade in my tablesaw in Jatoba! Do not try to resaw stock less than 3-4” with the 1 TPI blade.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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Keith Kelly

223 posts in 1128 days


#8 posted 06-10-2015 03:13 AM

Thanks for the clarification. I’ll give them a call.

-- Keith - Bolivar, Missouri, http://www.SquareOneWoodworks.com

View AHuxley's profile

AHuxley

493 posts in 2786 days


#9 posted 06-10-2015 05:01 AM


I have also never felt like my motor was laboring with either of these blades. The feed rate is faster than I would have believed. The 1TPI cuts as fast as the rip blade in my tablesaw in Jatoba! Do not try to resaw stock less than 3-4” with the 1 TPI blade.

- gfadvm

That is the reason I made the caveat regarding my personal preferences, I run exotics upwards of 20” with a power feeder at ridiculous rates and being a speed demon I have bogged my 3hp saws hand feeding just over 12”. I would guess most people hand feeding wouldn’t have much if any issue, unless they are like me.

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AHuxley

493 posts in 2786 days


#10 posted 06-10-2015 05:23 AM


Re: spectrum supply, their blades are great prices, but their shipping prices are quite high.

- Keith Kelly

This is true in the case or ordering a blade or two, their shipping often offsets the savings from them, though putting together a larger order really helps, I think my last order was either 15 or 16 blades and the shipping was about $21 (ground) which is just a couple of bucks more than I spent for shipping a single blade the time before, though that one being a Lenox Trimaster (about a $250 blade for one of my saws) it still was much cheaper than the competition.

The issue with smaller wheels and thicker (and/or harder) bands is metal fatigue which manifests itself with fatigue cracks usually at the bottom of the gullet. The thicker the band the more likely to happen, also the longer the blade lasts the more time for fatigue to set in. Outside a hardbacked band fatigue is unlikely to occur in a carbon, hardened spring steel or Swedish steel (high silicon steel) since they will dull very quickly compared to a bi-metal or carbide tipped blade. I wouldn’t suggest a 1” wide and thick bi-metal blade (or carbide) for the 513 family of saws since they don’t have the spine strength to properly tension it, a 1” carbon, spring steel or high silicon steel blade will be fine, bi-metal blades like about 25K PSI to operate effectively where the others will be fine at 15K PSI. TW claims low tension ability with their high silicon blades but I agree with Duginski on this in that there is no proof, other than anecdotal given.

I assume you know to only use the higher speed cutting wood, especially green wood to help clean the swarth. You can also learn to read the cut and if the cut gets progressively more wavy through the cut it is likely you are over feeding the band and need to give it more time to clear. IIRC the high speed on that saw is about 4500 SFPM which is fast enough for most wood cutting but nowhere near the speeds you see on larger dedicated resaw machines.

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