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Forum topic by tblake1984 posted 06-08-2015 02:22 PM 1009 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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tblake1984

28 posts in 638 days


06-08-2015 02:22 PM

Hey all,

I am coming up to finishing the build phase of my first woodworking project; a master bathroom vanity. It is 60” wide with two columns of drawers and will have a quartz counter and undermount sink.

The carcass is made of MDF and cabinet-grade plywood with the faceframe and drawers made of poplar as I planned from the start to paint the thing (no sense using aesthetic woods). I do have a question about finishing this thing though.

I plan to get an Earlex 5500 sprayer but as far as finishing, I want something really durable like a pigmented lacquer. I am thinking of mixing together General Finishes Milk Paint (Seagull Grey) and General Finishes High Performance WB Poly (flat) to get the color/texture/durability I want. Has anyone done this and sprayed it? Is a paint and Poly mixture okay? Is Poly a durable finish given the conditions this piece will encounter (humidity, temperature swings, kids, etc.)

Thanks,
Tim


10 replies so far

View edr321's profile

edr321

10 posts in 1008 days


#1 posted 06-08-2015 03:03 PM

Let me save you some trouble. If you are going to use the GF milk paint with any of their top coats excluding the enduro var you need to let the milk paint dry for 24-36 hrs before applying the top coat or you can have issues with blushing if water hits the surface. The milk paint on its own is rock solid and the high performance is a good finish that is very easy to spray. However, if you mingle the two together without letting the milkpaint to dry throughly I have personally experienced issues that cost me in the thousands to fix without any assistance from General Finishes. The GF line of products in my opinion has gotten out of had price wise for what you get I might recommend instead of the milk paint trying solo by Sherwin williams it is half the cost of the milk paint and is just as durable and you can get any color you want matched. You will want to thin it 4-6 ounces per quart. I also would suggest instead of the high performance use the Sherwin Williams kem Aqua if you can get it. If not the enduro Var will work just make sure with it you wait 4-6 hours in between coats. If you can go with a satin finish you can use the minwax oil modified its about 25-30 dollars cheaper than the enduro var and I haven’t seen much difference in the two. My last piece of advise is this practice practice before you spray your project and I would suggest checking out Charles Neil’s website cn-woodworking.com. He has an online finishing class chalked full of information that will save you time,money and frustration. It’s more than worth the monthly fee. He’s around quite a bit on this site as well helping folks out.

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edr321

10 posts in 1008 days


#2 posted 06-08-2015 03:19 PM

One other thing Tim I did a video on YouTube comparing the Sherwin Williams Solo with Kem Aqua against a Pre-Cat Laquer.

http://youtu.be/OJACGX14ngA

Eric

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tblake1984

28 posts in 638 days


#3 posted 06-08-2015 03:24 PM

edr321,

Thanks for the response. Even if I mix the two prior to spraying, I may still have issues? My only concern with the Enduro Var is that I have heard (and GF’s website also states it) that it has a tendency to amber. If I am doing a light neutral color, I worry that it will change the color of the finish.

Thanks for your suggestions and I will definitely look into it.

Tim

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1159 posts in 2157 days


#4 posted 06-08-2015 03:52 PM

I would have said almost exactly the same as edr321. One point to add – Kem Aqua will not add amber to the color of the milk paint. Kem Aqua also comes in a pigmented version that can be tinted to 150 colors. Mixing finishes from different companies is asking for trouble. Stick with a line/brand and you’ll have less issues.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "Finished"!

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edr321

10 posts in 1008 days


#5 posted 06-08-2015 11:31 PM

To answer your question Tim. I have tried mixing paint and clear coats several times. It didn’t work out to well. I am the guy that makes paint sales reps cringe at all the wacky and crazy stuff I will try and do. I love finishing and experimenting. Since you are going with Earlex take advantage of Sam being on the forum. I am pretty sure he is the man to talk to about Earlex he can get you fixed up and get you the needles nozzles and info you need on the Earlex products.

Eric

View WoodNSawdust's profile

WoodNSawdust

1417 posts in 643 days


#6 posted 06-09-2015 06:58 AM

I will repeat what others have said: spray the paint, let it dry completely, then let it dry some more, and then spray the top coat. Do not mix the paint and top coat.

Make sure that you finish the MDF completely as it will absorb moisture, swell, and weaken.

-- "I love it when a plan comes together" John "Hannibal" Smith

View tblake1984's profile

tblake1984

28 posts in 638 days


#7 posted 06-11-2015 06:47 PM

Thanks WoodNSawdust… simply put. I do plan to spray the inside and out of this piece.

I guess the base paint layer can really be anything but I will select a high quality latex tinted to the necessary color (Benjamin Moore most likely).

However, for the top-coat, what do people recommend? I need something that seals really well, has a low-luster, and is super durable and CLEAR.

Again, I’ll be spraying all of this so something that can either be sprayed as-is or thinned would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1960 days


#8 posted 06-11-2015 07:42 PM

No need to do anything if you use a good quality paint. When folks say “latex” I always fear they refer to wall paint, do not use that under under circumstances. But a good quality 100% acrylic will be really durable and not need a top coat of any kind. BM Moorestyle interior acrylic would be a good choice. Here’s some I did about 8 years ago. We sold that house but I got to see them recently and they are still doing just fine (poplar face frames with plywood carcase and door panels). Now, my sense is you want put something else on the paint regardless. Be sure to avoid any oil based coatings, they will give it a decided amber look, and it will get worse over time. The truly waterclear finishes are the waterborne ones, but be aware that some have a coloring to mimic the oil based finishes. (PS, not quite sure why the pic is truncated on the vanity side….but you get the idea. The tall cabinet is for linen/supplies storage in the bath).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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tblake1984

28 posts in 638 days


#9 posted 06-11-2015 08:35 PM

Fred,

Thank you for clearing that up as I did indeed mean latex wall paint. I will take a good look at the BM product you suggest. I would also like to put a clear finish on it. Is there any specific waterborne clear finish you have been particularly please with? I would like to go with a flat or low-luster finish.

Very nice looking work, btw. I like the way you styled the doors and the detail on the side of the tall cabinet. I think my piece will eventually look very much like that and I am using pretty much the same materials (plywood carcass & poplar on the face frame, doors, and false fronts).

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

3950 posts in 1960 days


#10 posted 06-11-2015 08:53 PM

I’ve only used Target coatings EM 9000 and General Finishes HP. The Target Coatings would be well suited for what you want, the HP has UV inhibitors which you don’t really need; but I used it recently on some oak medicine cabinets and it turned out really nice. Someone else may have some other suggestions, there are several good ones on the market.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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