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Forum topic by Peter Lieber posted 09-10-2009 11:50 PM 2884 views 1 time favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Peter Lieber

3 posts in 2641 days


09-10-2009 11:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: table saw blades dado

So, I am a relative beginner it woodworking. I am looking to buy a dado set for my table saw. I have two questions:

1. I have a cheap Ryobi 10” table saw. Is it even safe to do more that regular cuts?

2. It seams that many dado blade sets are 8”. Can you use an 8” blade on a 10” saw?

Thanks,

peter

-- Peter, Utah, www.digitaltrainlab.com


16 replies so far

View sikrap's profile

sikrap

1121 posts in 2820 days


#1 posted 09-11-2009 12:13 AM

Hopefully, there will be people more knowledgeable than I responding to your question. The short answer is “yes” you can use an 8 inch dado set on the 10 inch tablesaw. I suspect that the main question will be how many hp your Ryobi saw is. It may not be powerful enough for an 8 inch dado and you may want to use a 6 inch set.

-- Dave, Colonie, NY

View notsoyankee's profile

notsoyankee

2 posts in 2644 days


#2 posted 09-11-2009 12:41 AM

Make sure your arbor is long enough to accomodate a dado stack. and i would go with a six inch stack. I have used 8” dados on a contractor saw, but it is hard on it, and you will have to baby it through there.

-- the bent mashed up nail is my signature.

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

5173 posts in 2655 days


#3 posted 09-11-2009 12:42 AM

Is your saw a benchtop, cabinet, or contractor style? Do you have enough h.p. to turn an 8” set?
But the main question is: Do you have a dado insert in place of the regular blade insert?
If you got the juice, you should have no problems. If it’s a benchtop, you might get a little “walking” effect, but no problem with the other two, as they are on the floor,solid.

Rick D.

-- At my age, an "all--nighter" is not having to get up and pee...!!!

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

115202 posts in 3038 days


#4 posted 09-11-2009 12:44 AM

Also you will need a dado insert . If your saw dosen’t have one you could make one.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

View cwdance1's profile

cwdance1

1158 posts in 2720 days


#5 posted 09-11-2009 01:04 AM

I have been wondering the same thing as I’m new to woodworking. Can someone post a picture of a dado insert so I would know what to look for?

View doyoulikegumwood's profile

doyoulikegumwood

384 posts in 3453 days


#6 posted 09-11-2009 01:20 AM

i have to agree with the others stick to a 6 inch set heres a link to the dado insert for ryobi
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/images/B000P8LKBU/ref=dp_image_0?ie=UTF8&n=228013&s=hi

-- I buy tools so i can make more money,so ican buy more tools so I can work more, to make more money, so I can buy more tool, so I can work more

View cwdance1's profile

cwdance1

1158 posts in 2720 days


#7 posted 09-11-2009 02:40 AM

Thanks guys as I thought maybe it was something that you needed to install the blades on shaft.
When you get old you get a little slow too.

View Peter Lieber's profile

Peter Lieber

3 posts in 2641 days


#8 posted 09-11-2009 03:10 AM

Thanks everyone for your quick replies. I am pleasantly surprised. Many other forums don’t have the responsive members you all are.

-- Peter, Utah, www.digitaltrainlab.com

View Peter Lieber's profile

Peter Lieber

3 posts in 2641 days


#9 posted 09-11-2009 03:14 AM

My tablesaw is a benchtop with a leg set attached. The saw is here:

http://www.homedepot.com/hd1/N-5yc1vZ1xr5/R-100058430/hd2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

sounds like a 6” set would be best. I just want to do basic rabets and dados. I also want to get a basic router table w/ router. Since I don’t do very much, I was looking at the ryobi router/table set for $99. Would it be easier to just use a straight bit instead of getting a dado set for the table saw?

thanks

-- Peter, Utah, www.digitaltrainlab.com

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3283 days


#10 posted 09-11-2009 04:30 AM

Peter, to answer your question about dadoes on a router table, that certainly is possible. I prefer to run them, when I can, on the table saw however. On the saw you can cut a dado in one pass. With the router table you will have to make at least 2 passes depending on the depth. With a router I do not take off more than 1/4” with each pass to relieve the stress on the bit and the router.

The other challenge is that with router bits getting a series such as a 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 straight bits will work in some instances but will leave you with sloppy dadoes in plywood since plywood is 1/32nd undersized. You will also need a series of plywood bits. But even plywood thickness can vary so it takes some fine tuning to get the dado correct even with the “correct” bit.

With a stacked dado set- please do not even consider a wobble dado- you have an almost infinite range of widths up to the stack limit that can be achieved using the set and a set of shims that are used to fine tune the dado width.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#11 posted 09-11-2009 01:13 PM

Peter – A 6” dado blade will actually be easier to spin than a comparable 8” if the blades are otherwise equal…the 6” requires ~ 25% less torque. Power for a dado set is not a problem for many saws, but it could be a concern for a very small underpowered saw. You’ll give up some cutting depth with a 6” set but rarely will you need deeper dados unless you use a crosscut sled. Note that not all dado sets are available in 6” though. Be sure to get a carbide tipped set as opposed to steel.

If you’re looking for a good value set, Holbren sells the Oshlun 6” carbide set, and offers very reasonable shipping….free s/h over $75. Discount code “SMC10”, “BT310”, or “Woodnet10” gets you a 10% discount. The Freud SD206 is also a good value on sale, but has fewer teeth.

You can certainly do dados with a router. There are pros and cons to each, and it really boils down to preference, and/or what you have. I do most of my dados on the TS, but if the workpiece is really big, I just use the router with a straight bit and a straight edge. One advantage of spending your dado blade budget on a decent router, is that you’ll have the router for other things when you’re done!

A couple of current router deals:
Milwaukee 5615-24 combo kit (single speed, ~ $103 shipped)

Hitachi M12VC fixed base
(variable speed, $123 shipped)

Hitachi M12VC fixed base (VS, $99.71 shipped thru 9/11 w/code “tt090909”)

Freud FT1700 fixed base recon (VS, above table bit changes, $107 plus s/h)

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16241 posts in 3679 days


#12 posted 09-11-2009 03:46 PM

I had that little Ryobi saw. The first problem is that there is no commercially available insert for it. The second problem is that the arbor is not long enough to accommodate a whole dado stack. (I don’t remember exactly how much thickness it would take.)

Because of these limitations, combined with the small table size and minimal power, I would recommend staying away from using a dado set with this saw.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View macdaddy's profile

macdaddy

6 posts in 2793 days


#13 posted 09-11-2009 09:39 PM

I was actually getting ready to ask the same question as Peter only it looks like I’m planning for a much bigger saw. I’m going to order a Grizzly 1023SLWX this weekend. That’s the 5HP 10” version.

Do I want an 8” or 10” dado stack? I’ve been looking at the Freud D208, Freud SD508 and the Forrest DK10244. On Amazon they are $95, $200 and $250 respectively. I can’t decide if I’ll need the extra cutting depth of the 10” Forrest or if one of the 8” Freud models would be sufficient. I don’t yet know how much arbor I’ll have to work with but I’m not expecting the Grizzly to have any problems even when using a full set of chippers. The dados I’ll be making will mainly be for cabinets and bookshelves so they shouldn’t need to be exceedingly deep.

What do you folks recommend? I’m planning on getting a Forrest DH10807125 (80 tooth) for the hardwood plywood that my cabinets will be made with and a Forrest WWII WW10407125 (40 tooth) for general purpose cutting. I’m also going to get a blade stiffener to help take the wobble out of the 10” blades.

Thanks Justin

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7208 posts in 2836 days


#14 posted 09-11-2009 10:17 PM

macdaddy said: “What do you folks recommend? “

Premium dado sets are so expensive, that it’s tough to get exposed to more than a couple of them. I’ve had 4 good sets…Freud SD208, DW7670, Systimatic S42Fine, and the Infinity Dadonator. The Dadonator is the best dado set I’ve used. The Systimatic 42T/6T $300 is excellent, the DW/Delta 7670 is a very good value at ~ $100, and I’ve had several excellent Freud and Forrest blades, but it’s hard for me to imagine that there’s a better performer than the Dadonator out there.

p.s.: save your money on the stiffener unless there’s a problem, and even then the stiffener is a bandaid, not a cure.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View dbhost's profile

dbhost

5604 posts in 2693 days


#15 posted 09-11-2009 10:23 PM

Thank you for posting the link to your saw. I looked up the owners manual. On page 29 it clearly states… ”Do not install dado blades on this machine.”
If you are going to keep this saw, learn to use a router for dado tasks.

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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