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Very bad burn marks with new blade

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Forum topic by BalsaWood posted 06-07-2015 06:24 AM 1214 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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BalsaWood

29 posts in 624 days


06-07-2015 06:24 AM

I just purchased an Infinity Super General blade:

http://www.infinitytools.com/10-Super-General-Saw-Blade-40T-5_8-Arbor-125-Kerf/productinfo/010-044/

It is being used with a 1.5hp Delta contractors table saw. While ripping 5/4 oak, I am getting horrible burn marks. I even get some slight burn marks while cutting 3/4 plywood. I switched back to an older Delta general purpose blade and get no marks at all on either task. Could it be a bad blade? Any ideas?


20 replies so far

View Slemi's profile

Slemi

103 posts in 1007 days


#1 posted 06-07-2015 07:09 AM

I would say it has too much teeth for riping. This is more of a crosscut blade.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

2410 posts in 1980 days


#2 posted 06-07-2015 12:39 PM

Geez, I have a 40T Freud on my table saw, (Rigid), and I don’t have any burn marks on any woods I rip, even cherry. Its been on there for a little over a year. Maybe you are not pushing it through fast enough?

I keep up a steady push forward, not enough to bog down the motor, but steady enough that I can hear the motor working.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View timbertailor's profile

timbertailor

1592 posts in 890 days


#3 posted 06-07-2015 12:51 PM

When was the last time you calibrated your fence, blade, and table?

-- Brad, Texas, https://www.youtube.com/user/tonkatoytruck/feed

View jacquesr's profile

jacquesr

339 posts in 889 days


#4 posted 06-07-2015 12:58 PM

Hi,
I ordered the same blade a few months ago. I had the same issue. It turned out to be defective. Contact infinity.

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

16243 posts in 3684 days


#5 posted 06-07-2015 01:36 PM

If a different blade is not giving you the burn marks, I’d say that rules out misalignment or bad technique. I’d also rule out that being the wrong blade for the job, since it is billed as a general purpose blade. A dedicated rip blade is best if you’re going to be ripping a lot of lumber, but a general purpose blade should do what you’re asking of it without burning.

Bottom line: I say defective blade.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View TheFridge's profile

TheFridge

5765 posts in 952 days


#6 posted 06-07-2015 01:52 PM

Yep. My 40t Forrest rips like a champ.

-- Shooting down the walls of heartache. Bang bang. I am. The warrior.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#7 posted 06-07-2015 02:39 PM

It’s always possible that it’s defective. The SG has very tight side clearances…5/4” is pushing the limits for ripping with that blade, especially if it’s not flattened. Try raising the blade a bit, and make sure the blade is clean. That’s a cut I’d prefer to make with a 24T or 30T blade, or a 40T -50T blade that doesn’t have such tight side tolerances.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View lateralus819's profile

lateralus819

2236 posts in 1355 days


#8 posted 06-07-2015 03:20 PM

I’ve got an 80 tooth I rip with and no ripping lol. Sometimes get too lazy to change to my 24T

View bonesbr549's profile

bonesbr549

1176 posts in 2533 days


#9 posted 06-07-2015 04:17 PM

Burn usually feed rate. Pick it up a bit. Are you experiencing motor bogging down with higher feed rate?

Another thing to check. Rip partially through a board and can’t t motor off remove and look at kerf. If it’s closing then the burn is related to the material.

I work a ton with cherry and it burs like a son of a gun. I use a Forrest 40t and any burn that appears I can fix with faster feed

Good luck

-- Sooner or later Liberals run out of other people's money.

View RobinDobbie's profile

RobinDobbie

133 posts in 1201 days


#10 posted 06-07-2015 05:03 PM

I have the same blade, same saw, same results. I wish I’d never bought this blade. My blade and fence are aligned to within .003”, so I believed it was my fault for getting a full kerf blade for a 1.5HP saw. However, I keep seeing other people apparently getting away with it, so I dunno. I switched to a ten dollar 7” Diablo blade meant for circular saws, and I’ve never been more pleased. It’s only limitation is height, as far as I’ve been able to tell. It’s only 1/16” thick, so it’s fairly flimsy, but it effing works. Beautiful cuts. I use the infinity when I dont’ care about burn marks or I just absolutely need the height. The infinity catalogs make great kindling, so I guess I came out ahead.

Oh, one thing I did to help was make a zero clearance plate with a splitter. Without the splitter sometimes the tension in the wood would pinch the blade so hard the circuit would blow.

View waho6o9's profile

waho6o9

7176 posts in 2043 days


#11 posted 06-08-2015 02:44 PM

Infinity responded to my email about this problem and suggested you contact them
for further assistance.

Good luck now.

Infinity Cutting Tools

Customer Service Team

Toll Free: 877-USA-BITS (877-872-2487)

Local: 813-881-9090

Fax: 813-881-0030

customerservice@infinitytools.com

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

2327 posts in 1893 days


#12 posted 06-09-2015 11:50 PM

I have never used an Infinity blade but reading through all the comments it would seem that it is the blade.
I have had great results with DeWalt fine finish blades, and as others have said, Freud.

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View DKV's profile

DKV

3940 posts in 1970 days


#13 posted 06-10-2015 12:17 AM

Do you have the blade on backwards?

-- This is a Troll Free zone.

View ElChe's profile

ElChe

630 posts in 802 days


#14 posted 06-10-2015 01:49 AM

I just bought this blade and it is really not a general purpose blade. It is a high ATB grind. Works great ripping 3/4 stock or less. Works decent with 4/4 if feed rate is patient. It is virtually chip free on plywood. But it is mediocre at ripping 5/4 or thicker material. It also excels at cross cutting. I improved burning on 1” maple by slowing the feed rate. Seems counterintuitive but my thoughts is that it doesn’t clear chips as easily as a conventional ATB so the slower feed rate helps. I like the blade a lot because I use 3/4 and less in terms of material. When I rip thicker stock I have a Freud dedicated rip blade. Compared to my Woodworker II, it is better with 3/4 material but the Woodworker II is better with thicker stock.

-- Tom - Measure twice cut once. Then measure again. Curse. Fudge.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11806 posts in 3154 days


#15 posted 06-10-2015 02:37 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5f_gPIZOKwY tips on how to use this blade correctly : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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