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Design help for Baseball Dugout Storage

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Forum topic by Cory posted 09-09-2009 04:43 PM 6523 views 0 times favorited 15 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


09-09-2009 04:43 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

I volunteered to do a project for a local high school baseball team and I’m afraid I might have bitten off more than I can chew. I’m hoping some of you can help me with the design.

They’d like to have some boxes built above their bench in the dugout to store hats, gloves, etc. The boxes need to be about 12” deep x 13” tall x 15” wide. The dugout is 27’ long. I was thinking of using plywood and making three or four sections of boxes, then joining them together. Each section would be about 8’ wide and have 6 or 7 individual cubbies.

How in the heck am I going to do this?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.


15 replies so far

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#1 posted 09-09-2009 04:53 PM

By the way, I’m terrible at sketchup, but here’s a quick take on what I’m thinking.

Thanks!

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#2 posted 09-09-2009 05:05 PM

Great idea on the french cleat. They don’t need a back, but it would probably look better. 1/4” ply should suffice, don’t you think?

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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spaids

699 posts in 2444 days


#3 posted 09-09-2009 05:40 PM

FRENCH CLEAT! I put a french cleat on a coat rack/storage drawers/shelf . The unit is all oak and its oddly super heavy. With its own weight plus heavy winter coats and all our stuff I could still do a chin up on this thing and its only go two screws mounting it to the studs.

IF you cut the dados (I think dados are a good idea) I would start with one piece wide enough to rip in half for the top and bottom. Then cut the dados before ripping it. If your dados are not perfectly spaced is wont matter because the top and bottom dados will be perfectly aligned. If one is off a 1/16 here and there it will be undetectable and the dividers will still be nice and straight.

I always try to find a way to work that will hide my lack of skills.

Its probably going to be built from plywood and going to be used hard so I wouldn’t feel ashamed to put screws in it also.

I agree with Dave… I don’t think 1/4 ply will survive in a dugout.

Don’t forget to take lots of pics!

Good Luck
Spaids

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

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spaids

699 posts in 2444 days


#4 posted 09-09-2009 05:43 PM

oh one more thing… if you put a strip of wood along the bottom on the back, below the french cleat, then it will sit flat against the wall and not tilt down when you pull on it. Just make sure there is an opening large enough to fit over the mating part mounted to the wall.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

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Todd A. Clippinger

8791 posts in 2850 days


#5 posted 09-09-2009 05:54 PM

This is a simple project and will be a good one for you to do. I support Dave’s comments on the dadoes and the plywood thickness.

On a simple project like this, you can construct it as shown in Dave’s Sketchy image, use glue in the dadoes, and just use a stapler on the top and bottom. If you use screws to pull it together be sure to pre-drill or you will just split the plywood.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#6 posted 09-09-2009 06:46 PM

Excellent ideas as always, gentlemen! Thank you guys very much!

I’ll be sure and take some pictures of the build and the finished project.

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#7 posted 09-09-2009 06:57 PM

Just thought of another quick question: Should I put a chamfer or round over on the edges of the plywood? I’m worried about guys throwing stuff into the cubbies and dinging up the edges.

(Since it’ll be painted school colors I wasn’t going to putting any edge banding on)

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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Todd A. Clippinger

8791 posts in 2850 days


#8 posted 09-09-2009 07:16 PM

A 1/4” round over would be great for wear on the edges and for the safety of the players sticking their hands in to retrieve items.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://americancraftsmanworkshop.com

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#9 posted 09-09-2009 07:19 PM

Forgive my ignorance, but should the roundover come before or after the dadoes in the top and bottom panel?

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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spaids

699 posts in 2444 days


#10 posted 09-16-2009 04:31 PM

I wanted to put this up as I feel it really is important for stable mounting. The piece along the bottom stops the unit from tilting forward if you put a lot of weight on the front of the box.

-- Wipe the blood stains from your blade before coming in.--

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#11 posted 09-16-2009 04:57 PM

Thanks, guys. I really appreciate the help. I’m going to get started on these this weekend. I hope to be finished with everything before next weekend. I’ll post some pictures when I’m done.

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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GFYS

711 posts in 2222 days


#12 posted 09-16-2009 05:20 PM

a few keys and strings and you could play chopin on it! :)

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Bucc18

2 posts in 378 days


#13 posted 12-11-2013 06:08 PM

Cory – I know this is an old post.
I’m doing a very sumilar project for my son’s HS. How did your cubby storage unit work out?
And, did why type of wood did you use? I am leaning towards, CDX, MDO or marine ply. Looking for the best long term durability and bang for my money… The whole project is a donation!
Thanks, STEVE

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Cory

724 posts in 2170 days


#14 posted 12-11-2013 06:21 PM

Steve,

I used CDX, glue, and screws. It’s withstood 3 seasons and counting (but has been repainted twice). I used a bunch of anchors to attach the cleat to the concrete block wall, then screwed the cabinet through the back into the cleat. All in all, it’s worked great and didn’t cost much at all. Good luck with your build!

-- The secret to getting ahead is getting started.

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Bucc18

2 posts in 378 days


#15 posted 12-12-2013 02:21 AM

Thanks Cory. Yes I like the cleat with anchors into the block wall. The coach is looking for 2 sets of 20 cubbys (10 on 10). I’m leaning towards 1×3 supports for the shelves since I don’t have a dado blade. I’ll need about 1200 screws for both sets! Was your CDX smooth on both sides? Thanks again!

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