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Making a Bed for the First Time

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Forum topic by pnewelljr posted 05-31-2015 03:25 AM 721 views 1 time favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


05-31-2015 03:25 AM

https://s0.smlycdn.com/data/product2/2/037c18de61e774f67643c950584dcefe68903842_m.jpg

http://ameblo.jp/kinoie-m/image-11961497784-13152762593.html

I am trying to recreate this bed myself. It is originally made by a company called Muji in Japan. This will be my first furniture project so I am trying to do as much research as possible.

I was able to locate the plans in Japanese here:

http://www.muji.net/catalog/pdf/manual/090522_wooden_bed01.pdf

The two images on the right are most helpful.

From my basic understanding, I think the following would work:

For the top frame I would need four 1×6 (or 1×8?) pieces of oak hardwood cut to length. I would attach those using a kreg jig (no glue so I can take it apart if needed in the future). I would then attach the support frame to each piece of the top frame (1×2 it looks like?) with a kreg jig and wood glue. Then I would attach four of the metal corner brackets like show in the picture to the support frame corners with a drill. Finally I would attach another piece of 1×1 wood to each side support frame piece with a kreg jig and wood glue to hold the slats.

The headboard I was going to get two pieces of 1×12 and attach them together with glue and a kreg jig and then attach it with something like the metal pieces shows in the pictures.

The feet I think I can just take an oak dowel and cut it into pieces. Not sure on the length or width for those though.

The slats would be easy enough to put together as well.

I am planning on using oak for the top frame, legs and headboard, and pine for the support frame and slats.

My questions are:

1. Is there something significant I am missing that will make this project fail? Will this likely be structurally sounds using this construction method?

2. Any guess on the width and depth of the wood pieces based on the pictures? The top frame I can’t tell if it is 1” or 2” thick. Also if it is 6 or 8 in in width.

3. For the dowel feet, best guess on width and height?

4. What is your best guess at the top frame overhang from the mattress? 3”?

Thanks for any answers!

- See more at: http://www.woodweb.com/cgi-bin/forums/furniture.pl?read=780343#sthash.zOjviziO.dpuf


14 replies so far

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FellingStudio

93 posts in 1149 days


#1 posted 05-31-2015 03:13 PM

Pocket screws will not hold it together.

If you look closely, at the plans that you link to, the frame is held together by a biscuit and at least one bed bolt. (Google bed bolt, it’s a thing.)

Personally, I would want something bigger than a single biscuit. A tenon or at the very least a few biscuits.

I would think that everything else is pretty straight forward, and you can figure it out.

-- Jesse Felling - http://www.fellingstudio.com

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#2 posted 05-31-2015 03:47 PM

Thanks for the response! Is there going to be anyway for me to incorporate and invisible bolt like they did in the pictures? I turned to pocket holes because I don’t want a visible bolt and it is the only thing I’ve studied much.


Pocket screws will not hold it together.

If you look closely, at the plans that you link to, the frame is held together by a biscuit and at least one bed bolt. (Google bed bolt, it s a thing.)

Personally, I would want something bigger than a single biscuit. A tenon or at the very least a few biscuits.

I would think that everything else is pretty straight forward, and you can figure it out.

- FellingStudio


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jcsterling

420 posts in 3052 days


#3 posted 05-31-2015 03:54 PM

That is not a bed bolt it is a counter top fastener. I use them in the same application when making my platform beds.

-- John , Central PA , www.jcsterling.com on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#4 posted 05-31-2015 03:56 PM


That is not a bed bolt it is a counter top fastener. I use them in the same application when making my platform beds.

- jcsterling

Do you know what tool is necessary to make that kind of hole in the wood pieces for that to fit?

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jcsterling

420 posts in 3052 days


#5 posted 05-31-2015 04:03 PM

You will need appropriate size forstner drill bit

-- John , Central PA , www.jcsterling.com on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#6 posted 05-31-2015 04:07 PM

Okay so you just have to freehand it then? (For things like spacing and depth) Is there any tool or something that makes it easier or more exact? The allure of kreg jigs is that they are fail safe so I am just a little nervous. Thanks again for all your answers!


You will need appropriate size forstner drill bit

- jcsterling


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jcsterling

420 posts in 3052 days


#7 posted 05-31-2015 04:16 PM

Freehand . You could get a jig from rockler used for drilling the holes for euro hinges if you prefer

-- John , Central PA , www.jcsterling.com on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#8 posted 05-31-2015 04:18 PM



Freehand . You could get a jig from rockler used for drilling the holes for euro hinges if you prefer

- jcsterling

Alright thanks. The last thing I’m wondering (for now anyways) is how to attach the bottom frame pieces to the top frame (and the pieces holding the slats to the bottom frame). In the plans they are already attached. It is also going to be true that pockets holes won’t be enough here?

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jcsterling

420 posts in 3052 days


#9 posted 05-31-2015 04:24 PM

Glue and pocket screws or biscuits should suffice

-- John , Central PA , www.jcsterling.com on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#10 posted 05-31-2015 04:30 PM



Glue and pocket screws or biscuits should suffice

- jcsterling

Great, thanks again for all your pointers. This is more for my own education, but why is a pocket hole okay on these pieces but not sufficient for the top frame in this build. I am just trying to learn the ins and outs.

Also, does anyone have a guess on the board dimensions they used? I originally though 1×8 but now am thinking it may be 2×8 because once you get them surfaced it will only be 1.5” thick.

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jcsterling

420 posts in 3052 days


#11 posted 05-31-2015 04:38 PM

Well for one thing you may want to disassemble the bed frame and pocket screws are not meant for that. Secondly the important thing in the bottom is that I said use glue not just screws.

2 X 8 finished at 1 1/2 would be my guess

-- John , Central PA , www.jcsterling.com on facebook: http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/JC-Sterling-fine-furniture/104430802928776

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#12 posted 05-31-2015 06:09 PM

Perfect that is really helpful. Last part I am trying to calculate is the dimensions for the support frame which for some reason I can’t figure out. I am making the assumption these are also 2” (1.5” surfaced) thick. So my guess was 2×2 for all four, and then two more 2×2 attached to the side supper frame pieces to hold the slats. But it just seems a bit weird when I am drawing the diagrams and measurements so wanted to double check what you guys think? I found out that 2×2 s4s actually comes to 1.75 on both sides not 1.5 so that makes it more complicated.


Well for one thing you may want to disassemble the bed frame and pocket screws are not meant for that. Secondly the important thing in the bottom is that I said use glue not just screws.

2 X 8 finished at 1 1/2 would be my guess

- jcsterling

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WhyMe

617 posts in 1028 days


#13 posted 06-01-2015 12:31 PM

My estimate of the board widths looking at the PDF and actual picture is that the outer bed platform boards are about 4/4 or 5/4 thick and 9.5 to 10 inches wide. That is based on the mattress being a Queen size at 60” X79.5”. Also the perimeter boards for the platform looked to be made up of 2 boards glued together to make up the 10” wide board. One definite suggestion I have is not to use wide dimensional lumber such as 12” because most likely it will cup. You need to make up the wide boards from smaller widths and alternate the growth rings to minimize cupping to have a flat board.

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pnewelljr

22 posts in 559 days


#14 posted 06-01-2015 01:44 PM

Good to know. I had made the (I guess false) assumption that wider boards were actually a better choice than gluing multiple boards together because it would be stronger. I had been planning on using 2 12” wide boards glued together for the headboard. I guess I would be better off with 4 6” boards then. That (the cupping) would have been an unwelcome, frustrating surprise.

When you say 4/4 or 5/4, do you mean after surfacing? I will likely try to get s4s boards from a local lumberyard because I dont have (or have the resources to buy) full on planer or jointers. Maybe if this project is successful, I will try to justify it to myself :)

I did some pixel measurement ratios based on the size of a queen mattress as well and it came to 1.3” thick approximately, of course the image is taken at an angle so it isn’t perfect.

I guess my main thought at this point is for the support frame, is there any reason not to use thinner cheaper boards? Like if I use 5/4 (after surfacing) oak boards for the top frame, and then 3/4 (after surfacing) pine boards for the support frame would I be worse off? I don’t want to spend extra money on full on oak unless it will actually add longevity, because the support frame won’t be visible.

FYI I fixed the link to the first image.


My estimate of the board widths looking at the PDF and actual picture is that the outer bed platform boards are about 4/4 or 5/4 thick and 9.5 to 10 inches wide. That is based on the mattress being a Queen size at 60” X79.5”. Also the perimeter boards for the platform looked to be made up of 2 boards glued together to make up the 10” wide board. One definite suggestion I have is not to use wide dimensional lumber such as 12” because most likely it will cup. You need to make up the wide boards from smaller widths and alternate the growth rings to minimize cupping to have a flat board.

- WhyMe

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