yet another planing issue

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Forum topic by Chuck posted 09-05-2009 05:01 AM 916 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Chuck 's profile


88 posts in 3169 days

09-05-2009 05:01 AM

Here’s the deal:
a little over 6ft of 5/4 cherry, about 6in width. got some cup, some bow, and a bit of twist. I have a 14in low angle jack. Cup was no problem. Now tell me, is it possible to fix the other two with what I have , or not? What do you think? Will I need to puchase a proper jointer plane? All the rules say you can’t run it through the planer in this condition.

-- Chuck, Washington D.C.

4 replies so far

View DaleM's profile


958 posts in 3353 days

#1 posted 09-05-2009 05:27 AM

First off, unless you need it the full 6ft. length, you will get more usable wood if you cut it down into the lengths you need/shorter lengths. As you mentioned, cup is no problem and you can remove that with it at full length but the twist and bow should be removed when it is cut closer to the length you need in order to get the maximum thickness of flat board remaining. Having said that, for any length board, I believe it is possible to fix it with a 14” handplane although I haven’t tried as I have an electric jointer and planer. I read an earlier post of yours, saying which tools you don’t have, but a router wasn’t on the list, so do you have a router? If so, you can flatten it with a router. GaryK and some others have posted variations of a setup to flatten twisted or bowed boards.

-- Dale Manning, Carthage, NY

View Chuck 's profile


88 posts in 3169 days

#2 posted 09-05-2009 02:18 PM

6 feet is what I need; its for a side rail of a bed. I do have a router. I’ll check out your reference. Thanks.


-- Chuck, Washington D.C.

View patron's profile


13600 posts in 3311 days

#3 posted 09-05-2009 02:42 PM

you can mount it on a sled ,
and shim it in places ,
under it .
with side and end stops ,
( keep them thinner than work piece ,
so they don’t get planed too ,
if you use nails / screws to them )
and run the whole thing thru
the planer , if you mark the whole face
with a pencil ( scribble back and forth ) ,
you can see where it is planing .
after the first pass , you will know
if you want to change the shimming angle
to get the best use of your board .

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View miles125's profile


2180 posts in 3975 days

#4 posted 09-05-2009 02:43 PM

Find you a flat surface and then you can tack nail some shims in strategic locations on one side of the board and then run it through your planer shimmed side down to achieve a true and flat surface. Of course make sure the nails you tack with are short enough to avoid the planers blades!

-- "The way to make a small fortune in woodworking- start with a large one"

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