10" saw blade with square teeth?

How about one of the outside blades from a Dado set?

-- Dan-- Info for all @ http://www.hoistman.com

My guess is that you have an ATB blade – Alternate Top Bevel. If you look at the blade on edge one tooth points out to the left and the next points out to the right. This leaves a cut with a small inverted V at the bottom of the cut.
What you need is an ATBR -Alternate Top Bevel with a Raker. Every third tooth is flat thus leaving a flat bottom.
It’s a pretty standard blade.

Lee

-- No piece is cut too short. It was meant for a smaller project.

I remembered reading one of Don’s box blogs about cutting splines ( http://lumberjocks.com/Don/blog/1702 ) and this question was asked; the response was

“If you can get to a home depot, the Ridgid 50 tooth combination blade sells for $29 and makes flat bottom cuts.

Popular Woodworking magazine listed it as one of the best buys for a saw blade earlier this year. It came in just under the really expensive WWII and Freud blades, but at a fraction of the cost.”

but that was 700 days ago, not sure if they’re still made

-- BRODY. NSW AUSTRALIA -arguments with turnings are rarely productive-

The Ridgid 50 tooth combo blade mentioned is still sold at home depot for $40 and is a great value (it is actually made by Frued). The 50 tooth has a raker tooth, which is a flat top grind and will produce a flat bottom. Most rip blades are flat top grinds which will give you the smooth bottoms for the splines you’re seeking.

Lloyd, have you looked at this blade?

http://www.forrestsawbladesonline.com/product_590_8_40_Tooth_WOODWORKER_II_Saw_Blade_1_Grind_for_Square_Cut_B.html

It’s only an 8” blade, buy you can always raise the arbor.

I have two Forrest blades.. A WWII for my TS and the 12” chop master for my CSMS.. Love them both and the Forrest sharpening service is priced right and timely.

Rat

-- I love the smell of sawdust in the morning....

just look for a good ripping blade… most ripping blades have the square blade… i think its called like a FTB (flat top bevel) grind or something like that… not really sure though… i have a Freud and i love it

Check out Freud—LM72R010

-- Kent Shepherd * The goal is-----More Tools!

I use this Forrest Blade. It is 10” and cuts a perfectly square bottomed groove for splines. Not the cheapest, but Forrest is a great blade.

-- Bruce - Fav. Quote "A man's got to know his limitations." Dirty Harry Calahan

Lloyd – Flat top grinds are typically found on ripping blades. For splines, I’d think any of the better FTG rippers would do nicely….Infinity 010-024, Freud LM72, Amana RB1020, DW7642 or DW7124, Ridge Carbide, Forrest, etc.

My “heavy duty rip” full kerf Freud blade is a FTG, but I am pretty sure that the narrow kerf ripping blade that I have (also Freud) has ATB teeth, so check before buying.

As others have said a ripping blade has the flat teeth, they also usually have fewer teeth so it can hog out wood when ripping.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

”My “heavy duty rip” full kerf Freud blade is a FTG, but I am pretty sure that the narrow kerf ripping blade that I have (also Freud) has ATB teeth, so check before buying.”

The Freud Diablo 24T TK ripper and the Freud TK Avanti 24T ripper both have ATB grinds, but the LU87R010 TK has an FTG like the LM72. Best to check since it’s not universal.

Thanks all for your suggestions. I now feel fully informed a bout what I need to getf. I think it will be some kind of ATBR blade.

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com

Lloyd – Just to be clear, an ATB/R configuration does not produce a true flat bottom. The ATB teeth protrude slightly beyond the flat raker, which leaves small grooves on each edge of the kerf of ~ 0.15” depending on the individual geometry. The ATB teeth will offer no slicing benefit if they don’t protrude beyond the raker. Only an FTG will leave a true flat bottom. An ATB/R can still be used successfully for splines but they won’t be perfectly flat.

Lloyd, you need to pay attention to Knotscot’s post and go to saw blade school (my choice of words for “STUDY”). It is very important that you understand all the ramifications of table saw use before ya get into trouble.
Bill

Thank you Knotscot. FTG it is going to be then.
Lloyd

-- Northern California http://www.lloydus.com