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Forum topic by frostwood posted 09-04-2009 04:03 AM 1119 views 0 times favorited 5 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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38 posts in 3335 days

09-04-2009 04:03 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

AS a beginner I want to build some drawers for some of my work tables . I have a router and table that I intended to use but today I was fortunate to pick up the freud 208 dado set for $45.00, so now I can do either. I need to learn both but I am presuming that each tool has its own characteristics that make it better for Dado’s on specific projects? Which tool would you recommend?

-- With each new day, celebrate life. Love God with all of your heart. Share Jesus with those around you and make a positive impact on those you meet. Bob

5 replies so far

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27250 posts in 3970 days

#1 posted 09-04-2009 04:53 AM

Bob, I generally cut my dadoes on a table saw largely because I can do it in one pass whereas cutting a dado on a router table will usually involve multiple passes. I also feel it is easier to dial in the correct dado width with a stacked dado set as opposed to using a fixed diameter router bit and adjusting the fence to achieve the correct dado width. And I guess that I am just more comfortable using my table saw as opposed to either of my router tables.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View Andrew1605's profile


15 posts in 3339 days

#2 posted 09-04-2009 05:12 AM

Table saw. You will get a cleaner dado, especially going across grain. Plus, you won’t burn out your router bits.
That Freud set is a nice one, sounds like you got a good deal. Use it.

-- Its not Rocket Surgery!

View mikedddd's profile


147 posts in 3378 days

#3 posted 09-04-2009 06:01 AM

I usually try to cut dadoes with my table saw nice and clean in one pass, a router when cutting across the grain will usually come out a little hairy nothing some 120 grit on a ROS won’t take care of, but one more step to get to the finished product. There are times when a hand held router and a jig are the only way to go. Since I built a new router table last year I’ve used it a lot more for dadoes (my old router table was scary), but I think the table saw still ends up doing the majority of them around my shop.

-- Mike

View davidroberts's profile


1027 posts in 3634 days

#4 posted 09-04-2009 06:19 AM

depends on the type of joint, and your TS compared to your router setup. sounds like you have a sufficient TS to accpet a dado setup. if you have a reasonable size router table and a stout router (2.5 hp or more) then you could breeze through a drawer joint using a 45 degree lock miter bit, such as below.

On the TS, the lock miter joint is a relatively simple and fast joint to make, as see below. hope you can see the video withoug being a paying member. maybe you are one. it’s worth the 5 bucks a month.

two important notes. on a router table, use a scrap piece of wood to back up the workpiece so you don’t get tearout or snipe. it’s also worthwhile to buy or make a coping sled for the router table. buy or make a zero tolerance throat plate for dadoing on the TS.

You probably have the tools to try both methods. either way you’ll learn alot and have more fun than a barrel of your favorite animals.

just my $0.02

-- Better woodworking through old hand tools.

View jerryz's profile


164 posts in 3427 days

#5 posted 09-04-2009 07:05 AM

Well I found a new respect for the table saw and the band saw. Just finished watching a DVD called “Mastering WoodWorking Machines” by Taunton Press featuring Mark Duginske make some very impressive dovetail joinery using just those 2 machines and a jig that was composed of just 4 pieces of wood and a miter gauge.
Soo simple I felt ashamed and jumbled at the same time. He also showed me how to use post-it notes as a very effective thickness adjusting measure
Well I am happy I got the video and hope to learn a few tricks. I am also very happy to have found this site and be able to pick your collective brains.

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