Shop Skills #1: Cabinet Scrapers Exposed!

Wow. All this talk of burnishing, oil, bending the burr over, but you can’t dispute those feathery shavings you’re getting there. I’ll have to give that a try! Thanks for the post and great pics.

-- Eric at http://adventuresinwoodworking.com

Todd great series of photos. I tell people that if you get dust then you are holding the scraper at the wrong angle. You need to vary your hold until the shavings appear.

-- What happens in the workshop stays in the workshop. No wait that doesn't sound right. Karson Southern Delaware karson_morrison@bigfoot.com †

Thanks alot Again for the Info

-- Jim, Kentucky

Todd, I agree with you 100%. I have been doing the same thing for many years. I have all kinds of different scrapers, including a set of bridge city titanium coated ones. They can only be sharpened in this fashion. Thanks for taking some of the mystery out of this tool. John

-- Oldworld, Fair Oaks, Ca

DOH! I threw my scrapers in a bin and forgot about them because I couldn’t get a stupid burr that would give more than dust…...DOH!!!!!!!!!!

Falls back to my mantra…..KISS (Keep it stupid simple)

-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"

Thanks, Todd!

I have been trying all of the same things as Eric pointed out and with dismal results. I am going try it your way, now!

I will have to do a video for you guys. But don’t hold your breathe – it could be a while.

I am confident that with the given information you guys should be able to figure it out.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Thanks for the post Todd. Santa just delivered my new set of scrapers. I had an old cheap scraper but it didn’t work very well, maybe now I can try this method. It sound easy enough.

-- Bob K. East Northport, NY

Todd, this is exactly how I do it. If I’ve misplaced my file (again) I just throw some 150 grit paper on the chunk of granite I use for a honing plate and sharpen my scrapers there. And I completely agree … every time I mention this method, someone starts in about some obscure difference between two types of burnishers.

-- http://www.north40custom.com -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

what if you only have one bench?

-- gbear, Carmichael, CA

Great job Todd, alot of useful info

Thanks for the post

Callum

-- For wood working podcasts with a twist check out http://thetimberkid.com/

Todd I can understand the desire to pull back the shroud of mystery … BUT … with that you destroy one of the mystiques of woodworking. These secret practices are necessary to maintain the illusion of superiority. If you continue to expose the simplicity of some of these things then people like myself will be forced to fall back on the quality of our work for the ooohs and ahhhhs. I’m not sure I’m up to that. ;-)

Yet, it’s a good explanation and I may even pull out my card scrapers and give it another try.

-- Working at Woodworking http://www.VillageLaneFurniture.com

Great post Todd. I sometimes use simple scrap pieces of dsb glass that also makes a fine scraper. No sharpening. Just cut you another one and try not to cut yourself!

-- miles125, Alabama.."Architecture is frozen music""

Nice post, Todd. I have always assumed that burnishing was a part of the sharpening process. I will try just putting an edge on with the mill file and see how it comes out.

By the way I am curious how so you sharpen the curved scrapers. I have used set at times, reluctently, since I can’t see a way to easily sharpen them, as you can the straight scrapers.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

Shhhh! You’re ruining it for scraper Nazis everywhere!

“No shavings for you!”

That’s how I sharpen mine, but I use a screwdriver to create a slight burr. I’ll have to try it now straight from the file and see if that works just as good. Always looking to save a step when I can!

-- You're a unique and special person, just like everyone else.

Great information Todd. Thanks for sharing.

-- My favorite piece is my last one, my best piece is my next one.

Amen brother! I feel the same with sharpening methods for plane irons and chisels. In my opinion try a few methods fine what works best for your application and stick with it the more your do the better you get at it and therefore is the best for you.
I cant afford $ 300 Japanese water stones or fancy machines but with a .99 cents piece of 600 grit wet dry sand paper and my trusted slab of marble I can achieve a mirrored razor sharp finish on any blades.
And Greg you have been watching way to much Seinfeld but I like your sarcasm (and they say it is the lowest form of wit… but I don’t buy that) Thanks for posting

-- All bleeding will eventually stop.

Thank you Todd. I believe we over think a lot of things today. It is ok to use a method that works for you. Your advise is most appreciated in this shop any day.

-- Bill - If I knew GRANDKIDS were so much fun I would have had them first.

Nice job,Todd.

-- CJIII Future cabinetmaker

Another good one, Todd. I’m all for removing that mystery as well. I do run a burnisher on the edge but it is not very technical. I use a small file that I stick in a saw kerf in a piece of Oak. Keeps the angle at 90 and is quick and easy. Keep ‘em comin’, pardner.

-- Thos. Angle

add me to the list of those who will finally break out the scraper from the packaging… I picked some up a couple of years ago, but I’ve Never used them. That looks easy enough that once I pick up a file (soon) I’ll be using them. Thanks!

-- Ned - 2B1ASK1 http://nedswoodshop.blogspot.com

Here is a decent article that agrees with you Todd.

“The conventional wisdom is that the steeper the hook, the more aggressive the tool (15° is supposed to be for removing paint; 0° is supposed to be for marquetry). But the truth is, we could get excellent results with all the edges. You could get the wispiest shavings with a 15° hook if you used light pressure. In fact, the only scraper that seemed to perform significantly different is one that I prepared with no hook. That one took only light shavings.”

So it’s different from a scraper with a burr but still an effective tool.

-- I am always doing that which I can not do, in order that I may learn how to do it. - Pablo Picasso

Great blog, clear and to the point.

Unlike yourself, I prefer to use a burnisher to get that turned edge. But as you said do not get hung up on the angle, for every piece of wood is different, even the same board, along its length. when you get that first good shaving comming off the scraper card, you will know what it feels like and then know what to aim for in the future.

-- Tony - All things are possible, just some things are more difficult than others! - SKYPE: Heron2005 (http://www.poydatjatuolit.fi)

Great info.

I’m with Tony on this issue.

I’ve been using cabinet scrapers for four decades.
The burr/no burr controversy isn’t a categorical position for me – it’s a continuum of possibilities.
Both work, but sometimes one way works better than the other for a particular kind of wood, desired finish or preferred technique. Just like the cabinet scrapers big brother, there are many different kinds of planes, each with their own specialized purposes.

Until recently, I’ve always made my own scrapers out of spent saw blades or other appropriate pieces of steel.
Lee Valley makes them too easy to obtain – I like that.

My personal techniques tend to vary from “conventional wisdom.”
Since I lean toward Japanese hand tools that tend to work on a pull stroke, rather than a push stroke; I prefer to scrape by pulling. However, I’m “ambi-directional” as needed for a particular situation.

I’ve even tried using mussel shells from our local river, just like some of my ancestors, for wood scraping.
Burr-less, of course. I’ll stick with modern steel for now. :)

I teach rustic wood crafting, and my students are amazed at the differences in how well a properly setup scraper works; burr or no burr. Add a little bit of good technique to the mix and the humble cabinet scraper becomes a favored tool.

-- Randy, Rustic Artisan, a family tradition. (No PM's - auto-deleted.) - "I am a seeker, not a follower."

Todd,

This is great! I will have to try your method as I love any excuse to use my card scrapers. To try different techniques in woodworking is a good thing. All too often we become too comfortable in doing things the first way we were taught and don’t venture to try new techniques that may be easier, safer or yield better results then what we currently use.

-- Brian, Folsom, CA http://www.brianfullerdesigns.com

I really appreciate the feedback from everyone.

I found that I did not need to go any farther than what I have shown here in the blog to get great results.

This entry should encourage frustrated individuals to give it a try again and get the card scraper functioning in their own shop.

The various wood samples support the success of my method in that it provides results in various types of difficult wood. I also use this on veneer and inlay with no damage and great results.

I believe that many will have success with this and when they feel comfortable, start exploring the next level of card scraper sharpening. I certainly encourage this.

I push and pull my scrapers as well. I did not really cover this but I plan on working on a video to show more.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Todd, the proof is in those photos of yours. A great mystery buster. Thanks for sharing.

-- Grumpy - "Always look on the bright side of life"- Monty Python

yea talking about scrapers is worse than talking about politics sometimes. there is so many different opinions on how to sharpen or use the tool. you hit it on the head with this post. people over analyze the sharpening method. it took me forever to get it too. i was doing all kinds of fancy things to get the burr. and i got nothing more then a handfull of lousy dust. ofcourse now after 4 years of diddle pissing around with fancy methods of sharpening i have learned and mastered the simple technique of it. i do it verry simillar to the way you do it. only diference is i take a shiny screwdriver and turn the burr a little more. great post todd. love the topic. i hope people try the easy method.

i agree that it is a wonderfull tool and it is ireplaceable. its perfect to use for dried glue, for figured woods, defects, knots, and inlays i also use it allot on joinery were end grain is visible. a scraper shines up end grain real nice. but i still dont have me one of them goosenecks. do you use those often or is it one of those tools that can only be used for one purpose only. like cove moulding

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me

oh and nice shavings too….. damn your thumbs must have been on fire

-- i can do all things through christ who strengthens me

Mike,

The curved ones do not get used too much. I used the gooseneck when I made the custom cove on my bookcase for example.

My card scraper does not get as hot as it used to. I move the pressure point on the card back and forth to utilize more of the cutting edge on each face. A cooler card scraper is a positive side effect from this technique.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Thanks for the info! All new territory for me.

-- Rich, Seattle, WA

Todd

Have you just built a better mouse trap?

At the angle your cutting point engages the wood you aren’t ‘slicing’ like a traditional scraper, you’re getting more of a “compression peel”? (Someone probably has a better term for that action.)

This is brilliant in it’s simplicity, and given the results, it’s obviously effective and far more applicable for the majority of tasks. This makes an otherwise frustrating tool easily useable for a broader range of people and applications.

Do we need to refer to this as the new ‘Clipper’ method?

Q

-- I don't make sawdust...I produce vast quantities of "Micro Mulch."

Todd Clippinger——Wood Workings Mythbuster. You thing Adam and Jaime will let you do a cameo? Maybe we could get the build team let you come play with them. LOL

-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"

It’s so wonderful to be learning from all you people here on LJ.Thanks for this post Todd.

-- Dustygirl..Hastings,Ontario.. How much wood can 1 gal chuck if 1 gal can't cut wood?

Quixote – I understand what you are saying about the compression peel, but it does not matter to me. The card scraper is part of my workflow that ends in using the random orbital sander before finishing.

My feather-like shavings do come off quite readily and so I am happy with the required effort and the result.

The finish that it leaves is quite nice on all the material that I scrape. I demonstrated on difficult materials that would challenge the scraper to show how effective this method is.

I openly admit that burnishing the scraper would leave an even nicer finish, but it is pointless to me because I finish with the sander.

I have to get on a video – time is always the issue.

Adrian – You are right, I should have called it “Woodworking MythBusters”.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Great info…cabinet scrapers (along with hand planes) are a few of the things I am reluctant to try based on lack of information..and a power cord! Thanks for the info

-- David, South Windsor, CT "I love the smell of sawdust in the morning"

Just tried the file method and it works great. Thank you very much Mr. Clippinger.

-- Bill - If I knew GRANDKIDS were so much fun I would have had them first.

Bill – I am glad to have some positive feedback after trying this method. If you have any questions let me know.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Thanks Todd. I always clamped my scraper in the vice and used the file by hand. This looks a lot more practical and quick. This helped a lot.

-- Check out my new website! http://www.blakeweberwoodworking.com

OK…I’ll take the scraper from the bottom of my tool box and try again using this method…Anything is better than the frustration of the “other” method! Thanks, Todd!

-- If, in your life, you attain the means to help; you incur the responsibility to act.

todd – thanks – I’ll have to give this method a shot.

question: what grits do you use when finishing with the sander?

also, what sort of file is it? looks like single cut, but is it a “fine” grade?

also, I’ve been wondering on the importance of a burr, since fresh cut glass gives the nicest scrapings I’ve yet to see, and that certainly has no burr, it’s just super sharp.

AronK – This is a great question and I should have included the information in text (I will add) and in the video.

I use either a 10 mill or 12 mill bastard file – single cut. Both work equally as well for me.

Sharpening definitely generates a burr because I can feel it on the edge. It is there and I am certain that this must be doing the cutting. I ignore all other directions on sharpening because they say to get rid of this burr and burnish a hook on it. It is obvious that this method is working for me as it is.

I finish to 150 or 180 as needed. On paint grade projects you can get away with 120 or 150 because the paint covers so well. I hardly ever go to 220.

Some wood seems to smooth out fine with just 150. Sometimes I need to go to 180. I do not like to spend any more time sanding than I have to. I can look at the wood closely and experience tells me if I need to go one more step. To be sure you can just go ahead and take it to 180 and I am certain that would be sufficient.

I have a great reputation for finishes so I must be doing something right.

I have debated with other woodworkers about how legitimate my sharpening method is and, ironically, the guys that use the burnisher method still finish out with a random orbital just like me.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

AaronK – One more thing, I realize that the “experience tells me” answer does not help you much. I would suggest that you sand some samples of wood to various levels from 120 through 220. Then put some finish on them to see how it highlights the swirl marks.

Try various woods too. Try the most common ones that you will be using like oak, cherry, maple, or whatever your flavor is. Try a stain to see how it highlights the scratch marks as well. You may even try some paint to see how the swirl marks read through the coating.

Do not just look at these in a critical raking light, take them in the house and lay them in common areas where a side table would be or on the dining table and just see how they look in a normal lighting situation.

Here is another important piece of information; I use a 6” Bosch random orbital and it has really tight swirl marks and runs at a higher rpm than many other sanders on the market. I own two of these because I can take one to the field and leave one in the shop. While in Ohio I had to have the motor brushes replaced and I did not have the back-up. I do not like using a 5” because they are very slow compared to the 6” so I bought a Ridgid 6” RO sander with the intention of leaving it in my brother’s shop. The Ridgid runs at a slower rpm with lower orbits per minute and has a larger stroke pattern, even on the fine setting. When I use this sander I always have to finish at 180 and it takes longer than the Bosch.

So the moral of the story is that the sander you use may make a difference.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Todd,

For those of us who are “tool challenged” how would I identify a “mill file”? Otherwise I am ready to give your idea a try.

-- It isn't as easy as the demos make it seem.

I use two files, either a single cut 10 or 12 mill bastard file. Both work, one just cuts faster the other and wears the cards down more quickly.

It is simply known as a “metal file” in generic terms. Every hardware store has them. I buy the larger ones to give me more file surface to work with.

You can see the file in the photo. If you ask at the hardware store I am sure that they can point it out.

Single cut means that there is only one diagonal direction of the file teeth. It is not criss-crossed in the pattern and it will only cut in one direction, that is when pushed.

-- Todd A. Clippinger, Montana, http://amcraftsman.com

Todd,

Thanks for making those distinctions. Since I posted my question I was in town and stopped at The Homeless Depot where I bought a general purpose “mill file”. The good news is that it turns out that this is a single cut model. However, this may be too fine for our purpose now that I have read your response. It is rated as a 200 mill file. I think I will keep it as my file collection here is paltry. It can be put to some good use in the future. I will try it with your technique and see if it makes any headway setting up the scraper. If not, I’ll get a coarser model and try that. If nothing else I will learn something about files and have a couple of new ones on hand to use.

Thanks,

-- It isn't as easy as the demos make it seem.

Todd,

The 200 mill file worked just great. I now have a method to prepare my scraper that works for me. I also viewed your video and learned about the followup with the RO sander. Thanks much for the tip.

-- It isn't as easy as the demos make it seem.