Shop built Sliding table for Tablesaw #5: Adding the table to the BT's

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Blog entry by Todd Swartwood posted 11-26-2014 01:01 AM 6217 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 4: Sliding table almost finished Part 5 of Shop built Sliding table for Tablesaw series Part 6: Building the Outrigger »

The next step was the Oak table it is 2” thick X 13” wide and around 80” long. I started by selecting some oak that would easily rip into 2 3/8” strips. I think I had about 15 strips. I laminated the strips together and let it set overnight.
I then planned the Piece down to 2” thick, jointed 1 edge and ripped the piece down to 13” and cleaned that edge up on the jointer.
I then attached the table to the bridge on the BT with 8 1 1/2” screws from under the aluminum bridge.

I then added the 40×80mm fence with 2 bolts, the one on the right is the pivot bolt and the other allows for changing
the angle.
By loosening those 2 bolts the fence will slide off and you can slide a different extrusion on, if you want a wide fence
maybe to use flip up stops with.
I did have to adjust the linear rail furthest away from the blade, to line it up better with the table.

The next thing to do was build the extension table.

I started with cutting 2 pieces of 1 1/2” X 1 1/2” 8020 extrusion to 60” mitered on both ends, and 2 pieces 24” mitered on bot ends to make a rectangular frame. I then added 2 more cross pieces 21” long, all inside corners were put together with 1 1/2” aluminum angle 1/4” thick.
So I laid out 12 pieces of angle 1 1/4” wide, I made small notches in the angle at 1 1/4” between each notch. When I had 12 of them laid out I marked center hole on both sides of each of the 12 pieces. I then drilled 5/16” holes at all
of those marks. After the 5/16 holes were drilled I went ahead and cut all of the pieces on the miter saw. Next I needed to make about 30- 5/16” T nuts. I used a piece of 1/8×1 1/4” steel bar stock, again I notched them on the miter saw to lay them out leaving 1/2” wide pieces. I just used up the piece of stock I had making about 50 T nuts. Next I laid out the centers on all the little pieces and drilled them at the drill press for a 5/16 tap. So I drilled all the holes 1/32 undersize. After they were all drilled and before I cut them apart I tapped all of them. I used a 5/16 spiral tap chucked up in my impact cordless driver and tapped all the holes. Then I cut the pieces apart and cleaned them up on the disc sander.
Now I was able to bolt it all together with the angle pieces a 5/16 X 3/4”machine screw and a T nut.

I then attached a 3’piece of 1 1/2” X 1/4” thick to the bottom of my fence. I then clamped the frame in place and drilled for bolts to the angle I had already put in place. I also drilled through the 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 extrusion and into the Oak table. I then screwed in 5/16 X 3” hanger bolts and the applied a washer on each and a ratchet type tool-less knob.
I finished this part by drilling through the aluminum angle and bolting to the extrusion with the use of some more of the 5/16” T nuts I had made.

Thank you for looking and commenting, and have a great night, Todd

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

4 comments so far

View JoeinGa's profile


7739 posts in 2184 days

#1 posted 11-26-2014 02:34 PM

That’s one heck of an extension table. Will that SUPPORT the weight of an 8’ sheet of 3/4” ply?

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View Todd Swartwood's profile

Todd Swartwood

258 posts in 1902 days

#2 posted 11-26-2014 10:12 PM

When I am finished with the outrigger it will handle the weight with no problem.
I have the outrigger built, It is on the saw now but I placed it wrong and will have to move it a little bit.
The 4’ X 4’ piece I made the test cut on was amazing.

Have a great evening Joe, Todd

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

View William Shelley's profile

William Shelley

592 posts in 1646 days

#3 posted 11-27-2014 06:15 AM

Just curious, but why are the corners of the extension table cut with miters? 80/20 is designed so that you can tap threads into the center hole of the extrusion and fasten two pieces at 90 degrees with one 5/16 bolt. You have to drill a through-hole through the middle of the other piece to fit the allen key through to tighten the bolt.

-- Woodworking from an engineer's perspective

View Todd Swartwood's profile

Todd Swartwood

258 posts in 1902 days

#4 posted 11-27-2014 01:17 PM

You are right about that, but I did not want an exposed end. 8020 is designed to be used in many configurations,
making it very easy to work with. With one entry hole for T bolts I can slide them all the way around this rectangle frame. And if that were not enough of a reason I like the look better.
Thanks for your input, and Happy Thanksgiving, Todd

-- Todd Swartwood (Todd Swart-Woodworks)

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