Walls for basement workshop

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Blog entry by tjscott posted 03-14-2008 08:46 PM 8683 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch

Now that I am just about fully recuperated from the flood I had in my basement, I am beginning to plan out the updated workshop. You can see the original pictures in my workshop entry.

I believe that the best thing for me to do with the walls of my shop is to cover the concrete with wood paneling of some sort. It seems that this would allow me the most flexibility in being able to position wall mounted items in various locations without having to rely solely on stud locations. I would like to see what others think about this idea.


-- Tom, Charlotte, North Carolina

8 comments so far

View GaryK's profile


10262 posts in 4012 days

#1 posted 03-14-2008 08:51 PM

Wall board with slots is about the most versitile thing I have ever seen.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View motthunter's profile


2141 posts in 3822 days

#2 posted 03-14-2008 10:34 PM

Slat wall is great but make sure it is strong enough to hang your stuff from.. If not tongue and groove pine is costly but easy to screw anything to.. After that, plywood gives you a universal wall that you can attach anything to.

-- making sawdust....

View jeffthewoodwacker's profile


603 posts in 3827 days

#3 posted 03-14-2008 10:48 PM

If your walls are concrete and you are not going to use stud walls how will you run electrical? If you are going to use slat wall material you still need to consider weight and if you have to attach heavier items such as cabinets factor you may need to still attach to concrete with anchors.

-- Those that say it can't be done should not interrupt those who are doing it.

View TedM's profile


2002 posts in 3756 days

#4 posted 03-15-2008 12:59 AM

I’m not much for wood paneling in a home but there’s something about a workshop finished in wood that just brings the whole woodworking thing together.

-- I'm a wood magician... I can turn fine lumber into firewood before your very eyes! - Please visit and sign up for my project updates!

View tjscott's profile


31 posts in 3827 days

#5 posted 03-15-2008 01:54 AM

To Jeff,

I did plan to use stud walls, but was not sure about using drywall. I also didn’t figure to leave the walls bare. I was wondering what to use to cover the studs with to have the strength to hold what might go on a workshop wall. Sorry if I confused anyone on that point. I would like to have the air pocket behind the walls to avoid the potential of moisture wicking through the walls.

-- Tom, Charlotte, North Carolina

View Dadoo's profile


1789 posts in 4014 days

#6 posted 03-15-2008 04:03 PM

You have poured concrete walls and I can tell you first hand that even they are susceptable to moisture. If you put up a solid wall, there’s a potential for mold and mildew to grow underneath. People do though build additional rooms in their basements, so there are wall sealers out there. Seek out your local paint supplier for more advice on sealing the walls.

Another quick fix may be to hang French cleats. Then you could add, and easily move, cabinets, wall panels, shelving units, etc. The air would easily circulate behind the panels. Make the cleats out of some hardwood and mount them with good sized Tapcon screws. You could then also hang that photo of Clint Eastwood too!

*Yes…I saw it. Your secrets out!

-- Bob Vila would be so proud of you!

View joey's profile


396 posts in 3927 days

#7 posted 03-15-2008 04:43 PM

I have remodeled a lot of basements and I almost always use metal studs to frame the walls, they are easy to use, make a nice straight wall, no dilling for wires, and moisture is no problem. and in the long run cheaper than wood 2×4 studs. There was a good article in Fine Home Building on building and remodeling in basements for wet areas if I can fine that issue I will posted it for you, but they more or less said to use 1 1/2 foam board fasten to the basement wall with metal studs, a vapor barrier and a moisture resistance drywall or wood. a lot slot wall that I have used has been MDF core a I don’t think I would use that in a basement. some the newer system are plastic, I looked them at a trade show, but they seem pretty pricey to me. I guess another way you could do this is use a wood or alum furring screwed to the basement wall horizontal with 3/4 foam between them and a plastic vapor and install your wall covering it gives you some room behind the wall for electric, but I guess you could also run it on the surface of the wall if you want. just remember to leave weep hole at the bottom plate so if any water builds up it has a way to escape and leave any dry wall or ply wood up from the floor far ear enough that it doesn’t wick water from the floor. hope some this helps, there is a lot of information out there and I sure there many different options.
Or use a good water sealer paint and then run a couple of french cheats a different height around the walls with tapcons and that make all your cabinets and pegboads with cleats on the back and you can move things around as you need them, I think Wood Magizine has a really good system in one there issue.

good luck

-- Joey~~Sabina, Ohio

View tschra's profile


1 post in 384 days

#8 posted 06-04-2017 11:13 AM

Hi there,

I live in Mint Hill and have the first bit of wood to donate to your projects. We had to tear

out a deck to redo a pool hit by wind.

Let me know if you would like my telephone no to co ordinate.

Look forward to hearing from you, it is beautiful wood.

Our carpenter may want to do some boxes for us.. so waiting to see how much
I can offer you free.

There is a huge pc of decking that was pulled laying in my backyard that would need
to be cut in quarters to pull out .. it will be beautiful stained or unstained .

-- Tina Austin

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