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RESAWING #1: SAVING MYSELF FIFTY BUCKS PLUS

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Blog entry by threehands posted 1721 days ago 954 reads 0 times favorited 4 comments Add to Favorites Watch
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I’VE BEEN RESAWING FOR SOME TIME NOW WITHIN THE LIMITS OF MY SAW. I HAVE A JET 14” BANDSAW. I WAS ORIGINALLY LIMITED TO ITS STANDARD HEIGHT MEANING I COULD ONLY RESAW A BOARD WHICH WAS AT MAX SIX INCHES HIGH. THIS WAS VERY TIME CONSUMING WHEN TRYING TO GET A BOARD SAY 15” WIDE BUT 1/2” THICK. MOST OF THE STOCK I USE IS AT LEAST 1” THICK. I WAS TIRED OF WASTING THE OTHER 1/2” OF WOOD BY PLANING IT OFF TO GET THE THICKNESS I WANTED. I COULD RESAW IT THINNER OF COURSE FOR VENNERS. BUT AGAIN, I WAS LIMITED TO ONLY THE 6” HIGH OF THE BANDSAW. NOW TO GET TO MY POINT…..
JET MAKES AN ADAPTOR KIT WHICH EXTENDS THE HEIGHT OF THE BANDSAW TO 12” HIGH. THE AVERAGE PRICE I FOUND WAS TO MUCH FOR WHAT I WANT TO PAY. IM NOT A CHEAP GUY, THERE IS QUALITY IN WHAT YOU PAY FOR…BUT FOR MY PROJECT I DID WANT TO PAY THE MONEY.
I REVIEWED THE PROCESS OF WHAT THEY HAD COME UP WITH FOR THE EXTENSION. IT IS ONLY A PEICE OF STEEL THAT IS SIX INCHES HIGH WITH A BOLT THAT RUNS THROUGH IT. AFTER THOUGHTS AND RESEARCH, I MADE MY OWN FOR A TOTAL COST OF $8 BUCKS. I WENT TO MY NEIGHBORHOOD METAL SUPPLIER AND PURCHASED A SIX INCH CHUNK OF METAL WHICH HAS A 1/4” WALL. ITS SQUARE, SO ITS THE SIZE OF THE TOP AND BOTTOM FLANGE OF THE BANDSAW. WHEN YOU REVIEW HOW THE SAW IS PUT TOGETHER YOU WILL SEE WHAT I MEAN. I TOOK THE BLADE OFF, TOOK OFF THE ELECTRICAL SWITCH, UNBOLTED THE SECTION AND THEN PLACED MY SIX INCH PIECE OF METAL BETWEEN THE TWO HALVES OF EQUIPMENT. {I HAD PICKED UP A LONGER BOLT FROM LOWES IN PLACE OF THE ONE I WAS TAKING OUT}. I SLID THE BOLT THRU THE NEW SQUARE METAL AND TIGHTENED IT DOWN. YOU HAVE TO SQUARE EVERYTHING UP. I USED A METAL STRAIGHT EDGE TO ALIGN EVERYTHING. I REATTACHED EVERYTHING AS WAS PRIOR TO DISASSEMBLY. I HAD TO EXTEND THE PLASTIC BLADE GUARD BY BUILDING MY OWN OUT OF WOOD. I PURCHASED A LONGER BLADE AND IM UP AND RUNNING. I GET A BEAUTIFUL CUT AND NOW IM NOT WASTING SO MUCH WOOD. WITH THE SAVINGS OF THE FIFTY PLUS BUCKS- I CAN NOW BUY A TOOL I DONT HAVE {OR BUY MATERIALS SO I CAN MAKE MY OWN}.

-- Three Hands- It's better to burn out..than to fade away. Stonecutter, copper, Offical putzer, proprieter of not making a profit (non-profit) woodworking shop, and possibly mental wizard



4 comments so far

View MedicKen's profile

MedicKen

1599 posts in 2059 days


#1 posted 1721 days ago

How did you handle extending the post for the upper guides? And the blade guard attached to the post? Dont be surprised if one day while you are cutting the riser block you made and installed slips out and the upper frame comes crashing down. They are “guide pins” in the upper and lower castings to keep the 2 pieces aligned. Without those pins the chance of the 2 pieces coming apart is very high, more of a chance than I would want to take.

-- My job is to give my kids things to discuss with their therapist....medic20447@gmail.com

View Chris Cunanan's profile

Chris Cunanan

339 posts in 2077 days


#2 posted 1721 days ago

50 bux or a finger(s), what is that risk worth to you? I know my answer, plus u gotta add the extra time u took to find the parts ‘n figure out how to re-engineer it, what’s your time worth? I love coming up with stuff myself too, but every time starts with safety, otherwise it could be your last for a long time…

View reggiek's profile

reggiek

2240 posts in 1866 days


#3 posted 1721 days ago

I have the riser kit on my old Jet 14”....think it was on sale for $75.00 when I bought it – I use it mostly as a jig saw now as now I have a grizzly 5hp model. I am much happier now as the 14” was so slow through thick hardwoods (especially ones from 8” and thicker)....the feed rate you had to use was excruciating…..with the 5hp…it cuts through almost as fast as you can feed it in…

Your idea sounds reasonable…but I would agree with MK above – make sure you check your alignment and tighten the bolts before each use…..I changed out my cheap plastic blade gudes to bearing guides also…those plastic ones would melt and stick to the blade if it got hot….

-- Woodworking.....My small slice of heaven!

View threehands's profile

threehands

29 posts in 1770 days


#4 posted 1720 days ago

Sorry I missed some steps in the set up. I did use a small plate on top and bottom for the pin alignment. {Sorry, after review-thats a pretty big deal} The plates were welded on top/bottom with hole in the center for the bolt to slide thru. I have no fear of movement. I replaced the black plastic blade guard on the left of the machine with a wooden one. Its u shaped with blocks glued on the side for the bolts. It protects the blade well. My upper guide post is still the same height. I use an “L” shaped resaw style fence on the side which is normally the height of the wood so fingers are out of the way and not a fear of missing a digit.
I too am safety conscious. I need all my parts…

-- Three Hands- It's better to burn out..than to fade away. Stonecutter, copper, Offical putzer, proprieter of not making a profit (non-profit) woodworking shop, and possibly mental wizard

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