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So much to do... so many sore muscles.

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Okay I'm slow today. After felling that Olive tree (see my projects for detail), lifting all of the subfloor panels and fir beams by my lonesome and working my day job to boot… I'm beat. I'm more sore than I have been in a long time, and I just don't feel like doing much. I've been on and off tackling the floor but I keep getting side tracked.

I finished laying all of the full size tiles. I started cutting up all of the custom pieces that go at the end of each row. I'm calling it a night because I'm exhausted, and I'll tackle the little stuff tomorrow after a good nights rest. Better than trying to speed my way through it and screwing things up. While the mastic was drying I tryed out a bunch of different stains and finally ended up with a color I like. This isn't a very good respresentation of the final product because there will be a gloss finish on it, but just pretend. The piece of oak is a completely different stain that I'm trying to match to the floor. I'm close but not quite. I want to use oak for the doorways and they will lay on the long-grain. Since the douglas fir on the end grain soaks up stain like a paper towel, it gets dark very fast and what might look like a very light brown becomes almost black when you stain it, leaving a zebra-like stripe. If you use a fairly light stain it comes out okay. If you use a dark stain… eeeeek. So I have to find a matching stain that looks like it was meant to be the same.

(My words aren't coming out like I want them to. I'm tired. I hope this is all making sense, because I'm not going to proofread before I post this.)

Well… here's some more pictures. I can't wait to finish this project and compile the video I'm making for you guys. I'm doing a step by step process to show you how I do it on video. I think that will give a better idea. We'll see.

See you tomorrow!
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This is a great series, and your floor looks amazing so far. We are adding on to our house in a big way right now and doing all of it ourselves, of course. We are considering creating an end-grain floor in the kitchen, and can't wait to see the rest of your story. Will you be posting more soon?
 
So much to do... so many sore muscles.

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Okay I'm slow today. After felling that Olive tree (see my projects for detail), lifting all of the subfloor panels and fir beams by my lonesome and working my day job to boot… I'm beat. I'm more sore than I have been in a long time, and I just don't feel like doing much. I've been on and off tackling the floor but I keep getting side tracked.

I finished laying all of the full size tiles. I started cutting up all of the custom pieces that go at the end of each row. I'm calling it a night because I'm exhausted, and I'll tackle the little stuff tomorrow after a good nights rest. Better than trying to speed my way through it and screwing things up. While the mastic was drying I tryed out a bunch of different stains and finally ended up with a color I like. This isn't a very good respresentation of the final product because there will be a gloss finish on it, but just pretend. The piece of oak is a completely different stain that I'm trying to match to the floor. I'm close but not quite. I want to use oak for the doorways and they will lay on the long-grain. Since the douglas fir on the end grain soaks up stain like a paper towel, it gets dark very fast and what might look like a very light brown becomes almost black when you stain it, leaving a zebra-like stripe. If you use a fairly light stain it comes out okay. If you use a dark stain… eeeeek. So I have to find a matching stain that looks like it was meant to be the same.

(My words aren't coming out like I want them to. I'm tired. I hope this is all making sense, because I'm not going to proofread before I post this.)

Well… here's some more pictures. I can't wait to finish this project and compile the video I'm making for you guys. I'm doing a step by step process to show you how I do it on video. I think that will give a better idea. We'll see.

See you tomorrow!
Image

Image

Image

Image

Image
Wow, your floor looks great! So, I am thinking about doing something like this but intermixed with tile. Can you make the cuts with a chop saw? My table saw is kinda crappy. I was thinking more about maybe 4×4s. I also read somewhere that you should buy at least 5 year dried wood. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Amber
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
That could be one of the nicest floors I've ever seen. All of the trouble was worth it. Great job.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
Thomas, you have created a unique floor with this technique and I really like the look of it. You did a good job on this project.

Thanks for sharing.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
Wow Wow Wow. I dido wraith,. Very unique qnd well done, It is truelly amazing what some people come up with, and you have done an amazing job. It looks very professional. I would never have thought about doing a floor like that. What type of wood is it and what are the wood sizes? How long did it take to put down the pieces? Just out of curiousity.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
Very nice outcome. You have created a one of a kind floor. Thanks for sharing.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
yes indeed.. totally amazing!! gorgeous gorgeous…

I loved the photos as well.. as they kept getting closer and closer to the floor… drawing us right in, just as we'd do if we were there in person!
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
WOW!! I really like it. I had to go back and read the other four parts of the blog. The floor looked so good after the sanding that I would have had to sit and look at it for quite a while before I put any stain on it.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
Great Job. I hope that you will enjoy it after all of the work. But it does look beautiful.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
thats a incredible job, i had never seen anything like that before. Thanks for sharring this has really got me thinking I want to try it.

woderful!
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
I have no clue how long it took me. It was so piecemeal that I lost track of time. I just kept going back to it when I had a free block of time. Doing the rest of the house should be quite an achievement. It's not a floor style for the faint of heart.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
Wow Tom! What an incredible job! The floor looks absolutely beautiful. We are really thankful for your instruction and patience. I am curious if you would ever consider doing the tiles without staining in a natural color, or other colors. I saw the redwood and now this one in walnut…both are just great! We are planning to do our floor in a natural with the sawdust. I will be sure to post everything as we go but we may end changing our mind again as we run into problems or lose patience. Right now the ceiling has us stuck. As I said before we took the knotty pine planks off the walls and and are making tiles to put in the ceiling. Very slow. This is taking us much longer than we thought. We started back in August!
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
very cool! Thanks for getting the final post on this. I was following with interest. Do you have something special in mind for the baseboard? Also, I imagine this raised the floor quite a bit with the subfloor and the tiles. So do you have to trim all of the doors now too? Since you were using dimension lumber, do you expect any cracking of the tiles as they dry out further?
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
This looks great…...I am going to get in over my head and try this….how big was this room and how many hours do you figure you have into it??
Once again it looks great….
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
I don't know how much of a headache you suffered, but from what I see it is a beautiful looking floor and one to be proud of. I hope it was worth it for you. It really is gorgeous. One of a kind, unique and worth it for you I hope.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
This is awesome. Years ago I worked in a steel mill here in Indiana and throughout certain parts of the plant you can see this exact same thing.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
just stumbled onto this project…very cool…I can only begin to imagine the tremendous amount of work that went into it though….
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
That's a cool idea for a floor. I know the posting is fairly old.. did you ever redo the grouting on this floor?

I'm a flooring contractor. You could use epoxy grout. Its a lot more flexible and would hold to the sides of the wood like glue. The wood would be the softer of the two and should except the expansion and contraction of an end grain.
 
Wrapping things up...

NOTE TO THOSE WHO WANT TO DO THIS…
Please don't use regular grout like me. The wood shrinks slightly and is allowed to move because of the urethane adhesive remaining pliable. There's tiny little cracks where the wood has separated on the outer tiles in the room. It's not going to weather well, so I'm replacing the grout in the near future. Thank goodness endgrain floors are cheap material cost. :) Everything else I did was fine, but the grout was an experiment that proved bad. I'll leave this project here so you can see it, but be warned - I have now decided to try other grout mixes using flexible wood filler or epoxy/resin/sawdust mixes.


Alright so it's been way too long since I've followed up this project, and yes, I finally finished it. The pictures you are about to see are where I'm at at this very moment. I just put the last coat of poly on the floor and it's drying right now.

I ran into some stumbling blocks on the way and I'd like to fill you in. First off, I left the project alone long enough to get disenchanted with it and began to procrastinate with it, but thankfully I have a wife that puts up with that kind of crap and just "encouraged" me to finish it. We've had a lot going on so it's been very easy to ignore the room all together and just let it sit there.

A few things that kept me from delving right into it were the fumes from the poly and the stain, and the grouting process. I didn't want my wife and kid to be in the house while it was curing. Way too many fumes, especially with endgrain because it soaks up so much more than normal (about 5 times as much).

I rented a sander from a local home depot. If you have a large area to do I recommend using the buffer style. If you have a small area to do with a lot of square corners I like the big square finishing sander style. They both work great. I used very coarse sandpaper to get the ball rolling. Then I stepped up grit until I got to 150. After that it really doesn't matter there's a texture that I was trying to achieve and I got it at that grit. I rented the sander for 24 hrs because I had to do it at night and they closed before I could be done, but it can be done in less than 3 hours if it's a fairly small space, so if you're good at doing things quickly and effieciently… go for it. If not, spend the extra $10 and relax.

The grouting was a big concern because I was having difficulty maintaining a balance between consistency and color and I was worried about longevity. I was mixing up the sawdust with the color and then the glue and more color and more glue and more color… etc. etc. I found a few I liked but it was difficult to get a color that I felt comfortable with that would hold, so I did what any person with patience running low would do…. grout it with real grout. Eeeeek you say? Yes, it's not what I had originally planned, but the outcome was exactly what I wanted. The color was exact. The application was a bit tougher than when you tile, simply because of the natural pouriceness of endgrain. It had a tendency to hold on to the sand crystals and they would dry up and look like dust.

I didn't have time to take a bunch of pictures of the process, but I'll give you a brief synopsis because it's not rocket science and you'll be able to figure it out…. I stained the floor… I polyurethaned the floor. I polyurethaned the floor again. I grouted the floor…. I wiped it up with sponges…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and wiped… and wiped again…. and then I polyurethaned again.

What's the purpose in polyurethaning and staining before I grouted you say? Because if you don't seal up the end grain with the stain and poly than you're going to get crap in it from the grout you use. It will be impossible to get an even stain with the colors that bleed in from the grout. This goes for the sawdust version of grout as well if that's what you use.

I'll post a final set of pictures of the room once I've finished al the moulding and fixtures. Right now I'll post these wet poly pics. They show off the grout and grain. Thanks for keeping up with this blog and I hope you enjoyed it. I'll be doing the rest of my house someday soon, and if there's stuff you want to see pictures of let me know so I can take them next time.



























Thanks,
Thomas
i had a similar idea to do this method on a desk top, and was directed to this blog by another member. first off, great job.

what did you end up using in place of the grout? i am trying to determine what adhesive i would need to use to adhere the end cuts to a solid wood desktop, and what material to use to fill the gaps between boards and smooth out the surface.

i'd appreciate any feedback you can offer.

cheers!
 
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