The main door will have a mirror set in it, and the large main compartment will be subdivided into cubbyholes etc. Basically, it’s going to be a huge valet for ties, jewlery, belts, etc. I am not planning to finish the inside so the smell will be preserved.

Man… my shop looks like a dark cave in that shot.

While I’m at it, can I gloat about all this UHMW-PE that a friend got for me? :-)

2) Spanish cedar isn’t cedar.

3) I should have listened when my hardwood purveyor told me to wear a dust mask all day because Spanish Cedar TASTES HORRIBLE! It lingers on your lips for days! Yuck!

The receipt appears:

—Bolivian Rosewood
—Figured Santos Mahogany (“Bee’s wings” I think)
—Mesquite (knew that)

Any tips for working with these beauties? I’ve already resawed them down to get bookmatched 1/2 inch boards…. The mahogany in particular seems a bit brittle. The mesquite is tough!

In the intervening months, I quit my job, moved to another state, and—perhaps most importantly—acquired a honing guide and a working knowledge of Scary Sharp.

The first plane is a Stanley Bailey #4 in pretty good shape. I spent the late afternoon today flattening its (almost flat) sole plate and sharpening the blade. Now, it cuts like butter. I can already see myself reaching for this instead of firing up a power tool (occasionally).

The second plane is a tiny block plane just 3 and 5/8” long. I had assumed that it was just some cheapie, but when I tried to flatten the sole I found the steel to be a bit stronger than I expected. Once tuned, this little plane cut like butter and its fits in my pocket.

Anybody know anything about this little number? The only marking is a cast “FJ” under the frog. The iron is 1” wide.

—It’s really hard to blow sawdust out of the way when you’re wearing a respirator.

—Yes, Virginia, I can resaw with my tablesaw

—When you buy fancy wood, it’s important to remember what it’s called, or else all the other Lumberjocks will make fun of you when don’t know what it is!

—Thiel

Any tips for setting this type of tool up? I’ve seen a million videos on installing and tuning saws, but never a thing on a mortiser.

2009: The Summer of the Tenon!

The original plans call for butt hinges mounted to the side of the clock case (on the outside). Instead, I’m going to use some rear pivot hinges I found at Lee Valley. They’ll be totally hidden, and they mount (mortise free) to the back of the doors with pins riding in drilled holes. Easy install.

I’ve settled on Teak Oil for the finish. Also, I’m weighing weather to use pulls on the doors at all. I don’t have a lathe so I can’t turn them out of walnut, and I’m afraid I won’t get stained pulls to match. I had thought of just coving a finger pull into where the door and case meet. I’m also not planning on any catch, instead thinking I’d use a magnet. We’ll see!

Last task is to make the quarter-round mouldings I’ll use to hold in the glass/panel, and to design and print the clock face. I might finish this Friday!

I’ve been chipping away at this an hour or two at a time. I’m almost finished with this Shaker Wall Clock (a la Norm) in Peruvian Walnut. I’m going to design the face myself (and that’s just about the last thing I have to do!)

Planned to use hidden hinges and magnets to close the doors.

How do you all think I should finish this? Danish oil?

—David