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Now that the leg pieces are cut to their rough shape, we need to focus on blending the parts using the router, the ball mill, and the rasp. Its a process that has a lot of wiggle room depending on your tool preferences and the final shape you are trying to achieve. I also tackle the initial work on the table top, which turns out to be a little tricky due to the size and weight of the pieces. And even though I’m not completely done with the project, I have to start the finishing process for strategic reasons.
Creating the “rounded look” using roundover bits.
Shaping and blending using a ball mill, a rasp, and sandpaper.
A clever way to use custom cauls for clamping the angled legs.
Using epoxy and a high density filler as an adhesive.
Planing the 14” wide 6/4 mahogany pieces for the table top using the skip planing technique.
Using hand planes to prep a long edge for power jointing.
Alternative ways of prepping an edge for jointing.
Gluing up the top.</li>
Creating a template for the curved ends of the table top.
Finishing strategy (the bottom of the table top)
West System Epoxy Hardener – The hardener is available in both slow and fast varieties. For most projects, I use Fast, which actually gives me 5-10 minutes of working time. Slow is good for those really tricky glueups.
Cabinet Maker's Rasp – The #49 cabinet maker’s rasp allows me to shape wood fairly quickly with a great deal of control. On projects like this, I’d be lost without it.
Rotary Burrs – Unfortunately, the 1” ball mill shown in the video is very hard to come by. I recommend using a kit like this instead. They are smaller, but that may be advantageous on other projects.
Electric Die Grinder – This is the new version of the Makita die grinder I use. You can get a pneumatic die grinder if you have a decent compressor. For me, the electric version was much more practical.
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