After commenting and following a post by MichaelJ, I decided that a picture or two is worth a thousand words. So, here’s how I do it. (I had also posted in the past another way, but I like this method better)
First, remove the blade guard on your planer. Set the fence to the maximum width.
Face joint the board as you normally would, until the jointable surface is flat.
You should now have the flat, jointed surface and the “rabbet” from the overhang.
This is the spacer board, which I made from 1/4” plywood. I also have some made from tempered hardboard.
I made a variety of length, to use with different length boards. I glued a stop block on the end to keep the spacer from slipping out from under the board while planing. 
Place the stop block on the infeed side of the board
Set your planer and plane the rough side of the board until flat.

Flip the board over and set planer to remove the “rabbet” and plane to desired thickness.


I haven’t used this on boards wider than 9” – 9.5”. There could be some tilting on boards wider than that. Maybe if someone has some wider boards they could experiment and let us know.
-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com

















13 comments so far
Lee A. Jesberger
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6526 posts in 2177 days
#1 posted 574 days ago
Hi Tim;
Nice write up.
This does work on wider boards as well, as they can’t tip. The feed rollers prevent it.
Lee
-- by Lee A. Jesberger http://www.prowoodworkingtips.com http://www.ezee-feed.com
tenontim
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2130 posts in 1942 days
#2 posted 574 days ago
Thanks for the info, Lee. I normally don’t have any boards wider than 10”, so haven’t tried this method on them.
-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com
jumbojack
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708 posts in 821 days
#3 posted 573 days ago
Brilliant! The analytic prowess of the persons of Lumberjocks amazes me.
-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith
gfadvm
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6907 posts in 887 days
#4 posted 573 days ago
Great tip! I didn’t ‘get it’ until you posted the pics. Thanks for going to the trouble to do this.
-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#5 posted 573 days ago
Clever.
I’m acually amazed it works that the tilting is not making it take more on one side unless the rabbet is 1/4 as the baoard. Cool idea, thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
tenontim
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2130 posts in 1942 days
#6 posted 573 days ago
Mads, I only joint the board until its mostly flat, which is usually less than 1/4” I think that if the amount of wood riding on the plywood is greater than the over hang, the leverage is not enough to cause the board to tilt. That’s provided the hold down springs on your planer are adjusted equally. And actually, if the board did tilt a little, it would be flattened out when you flip it over. Just be a little thinner when you’re finished.
-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com
patron
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12171 posts in 1538 days
#7 posted 573 days ago
what a great tip tim
t’ll have to use this sometime
thanks
-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#8 posted 572 days ago
Exelent.
Thank you.
Best thoughts,
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
a1Jim
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89114 posts in 1774 days
#9 posted 572 days ago
Very good tip . I would guess if you have a 12” board and a 4” jointer you could joint both edgs and make a sled with a space in the middle and then send it through your planner.
Thanks for sharing.
-- W James Brokenbourgh Custom furniture maker http://artisticwoodstudio.com/
pintodeluxe
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1850 posts in 1010 days
#10 posted 572 days ago
Thanks, I appreciate the photo series. Good description.
I have heard that one heavy pass is best when you first start this operation. The theory is that once the difference between the flattened side of the board and the rough side of the board exceeds your cut depth, then the rough side will start riding up on the planer near the guard mount.
Have you found this to be true?
-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush
able339
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47 posts in 572 days
#11 posted 572 days ago
I must say, Tenontim, You are smarter than the average “possum!! I had heard of it being done but I never put much faith in the process. It certainly sounds like something I need to know!
-- TNJames
tenontim
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2130 posts in 1942 days
#12 posted 572 days ago
Willie, I think it would ride up on the guard mount, especially if you’re jointing some really cupped boards. If I have any that have a lot of cup, I will rip them down, as someone previously mentioned. The main thing is to just get a mostly flat surface for the board to ride on. It doesn’t have to be completely jointed, just have a supporting surface down the length of the board, to prevent the planer rollers from pressing the board down to follow the uneven top surface. You’ll clean up the jointed face when you flip the board over.
-- Tim-- http://www.tmuli.com
Dusty56
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10727 posts in 1885 days
#13 posted 486 days ago
Wow , this is a great time saver , TT…I see you have the Powermatic jointer there. Thanks for responding to my pulley question earlier today : )
Have a great weekend !
-- When did quiet and quite become the same word ? I'm guessing about the same time as your and you're did.
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