Last year, my first LumberJocks project was the Franken-Rack, a huge wooden rack that mounted on the rook of my 2001 Chevy Blazer. The concept was sound. The construction sturdy and useful. Unfortunately, it was too heavy for the roof’s infrastructure to support, so off it went, late last year, to go through this past winter under heavy canvas cover. On April25th I made an excellent buy on a Harbor Freight (HF) 4’x8’ Folding Utility Trailer. Over the past month I have been working on its assembly and the creation of a wooded stake side and gate system. The goal: a trailer that could safely carry 4’x8’ sheet goods, lumber, workshop equipment and furniture, bought as well as made.
The full set of 58 pictures showing construction from start to finish can be found here at my Google+ profile. I have only added some pictures showing the finished build.
The HF trailer comes in two heavy boxes. One contains all the frame, axle, assembly components and accessories. The other box contains the two wheels, fenders, lights and wiring. Assembly wasn’t difficult, just time consuming. I started assembly in the dungeon with the front and back frame halves, then assembled the rest outdoors. Without a garage or shelter to work in, I could only work on the assembly and stake sides build while weather cooperated. It’s important to note that most of the washers used in this assembly were added by me. That’s a little over 120 of them, in four different sizes. I guess this is one way to save cost in manufacturing, because I spent close to $45.00 USD just in those. The jack stand was extra, an additional $20.00, I believe. I also bought a dolly for around fifty. Minus the stand and dolly, and with an initial cost of $239.00 for the trailer, I have somewhere between $350-$400 into the project. All I need to add at a later date is a spare tire and frame mount for it.
The trailer was designed to be folded in half and rolled away to a side or corner of your garage. I wanted a more solid construction. I didn’t have a need for a folding capacity. I routed the wiring a little differently, by having it split and run through each leg of the front “A” frame to the rest of the trailer. You can see in the finished build picture that I have used plastic automotive wiring cover in the “A” frame section to give better weather protection. Wherever the wiring harness passed through a metal frame clip I wound several wraps of electrical tape to protect from the sharp edges. I added zip ties where I felt more control was necessary. I didn’t use the junction clamps for the wiring, instead using butt crimps that were generously wrapped in electrical tape to keep water out.
Final Construction Pictures
Trailer after the second coat of Flood UV protecting deck stain and sealant had been applied. You can see the cross braces behind it and to the far right the removable gate against the shed:
I designed the staked bed to have two rear gates. The one you see is for sheet goods and any condition where the full-height gate isn’t needed. Carabiners are used to secure the hinged gate when the full-size gate is used. As you see it, I would use the locks normally placed on the full-size gate. This keeps me from having to have four padlocks:
I had concerns with using ratcheting web straps over the top of the sides compressing them and causing fractures at the half-lapped section of the side stakes. To avoid this, I added cross braces atop each of the half-lapped stakes:
The braces are attached to the stakes via a sliding lock bolt. Each lock bolt is secured from opening via a carabiner:
The trailer is pretty much finished. All I have to do is add (already purchased) tarp tie downs and strapping loops, probably later this week. It has been used to haul pallets back to the house. Worked great.
Next project—-The Dungeon; an ongoing saga.
-- -- Paul Bucalo, Norwich NY USA