My Son and DIL are having a cycling holiday in France. The are taking a car ferry to Denmark and then driving through Germany to France the rest of the way. Their bikes are very expensive and so they weren’t too keen on having them mounted on the outside of the car on the roof or on the back as they are worried about theft and also stability since they have carbon fiber frames which are easily damaged if they get bumped into.
My son found that there is room for both bikes in the back of their station wagon with the front wheels demounted and still enough space left over for their luggage. The bike mount requires having strong and stabile mounts for the bike forks to rest on and which can be locked in place to keep it from moving around. He came up with a design and then asked me if I could help him make them. We had to do it pretty quickly since he was leaving the next day. Here is what he came up with:
As you can see in the photo below, the wheel camlock goes right through metal tube to lock the forks securely onto the mount.
Materials for one mount
-1pc – 1/4” thick Baltic birch plywood 6”W X 18”L
-1pc – Fir 2X4 6” long
-1pc – 1” diam. Hardwood dowel
-1pc – Steel tubing 9mm (.36”) outside diam. and 6mm(1/4”) inside diam.
- Drill a hole 22mm (0.87”) dia. hole all the way through the side of the 2X4 with the center point in the middle of the 2X4 and 20mm (0.79”) above the bottom edge.
- Drill a centered hole thru the dowel 10mm (0.38”) from end to end. For vertical drilingl support, insert the dowel in the hole in the 2X4.
- Drill 2 screw holes in the plywood across the center point of the plywood about 25mm (1”) in from each edge and countersink on the bottom.
- Drill matching holes in the 2×4. Note: You can also carpet tape the two pieces together and drill the holes thru the ply and into the 2×4 in one go.
- Attach the the 2×4 with the 2 screws.
- Glue the dowel in the hole through the 2×4 using wood glue. The ends should protrude 20mm (0.79”) on each side of the 2×4.
- Glue in the steel tubes into each end of the hole in the hardwood dowel with epoxy glue. The ends should protrude 3mm (1/8”). Avoid getting glue into the inside of the tube or the thru hole in the dowel, Note You can use 2 pieces of tubiing about 1-1/2” long if you don’t have enough tubing to go all the way through. That’s what we did using a wiring tube from an old table lamp.
- Clean up any glue on the outside of the protruding steel tube and the ends of the dowel.
The protrusion measurements of the dowel and the related metal tube are critical. They must match your particular bike, so you might have to make some changes to the measurements given above. The same applies to the diameters of the dowel and the the steel tube.
- The steel tubing we found was 1mm too large in diameter so we mounted the tube in the lathe and filed it down to the final dimension with the lathe running. If you have the same problem and don’t have a lathe you can do the same thing using a drill press. You only have to file the tip of the tube where it protrudes.*
The photos below show my DIL’s bike mounted in the car. There will be two bikes clamped in there for the trip.
Not a great woodworking project, but I thought it might be a good idea for the cyclists out there. Glad to answer any questions you might have. Thanks for reading.
-- Mike, an American living in Norway.