Big glue-up decision
My last blog in this series left off after chiseling the datos for the bottom of my very tall ‘bucket’. The next step was a dry clamping before glue-up, and then I had to decide if I could do it all in one go.
Application of the glue went so fast on the first half that I decided there would be enough time to do both halves before the glue set, so I went with the all-in-one-go approach.
The two glued halves were placed on the bottom and band clamps were placed at the top and bottom ends. This left a pretty good gap in the middle where the halves went together, but the top and bottom joints were all tight so it seemed that if enough clamps were used between the top and the bottom that the whole thing would pull together ok. As you can see it did come together as hoped, but it was necessary to use quite a bit of pressure to get it done. See Below
Band clamp tip
If you use the cargo strap clamps as I have done, the best type would have a length of strap without a hook at the end permanently attached to the ratchet. That will allow a smooth band all the way around providing it is long enough. That way you won’t need to hook them together and use the long loose band as I had to do on a couple of them, which can dent your container. Of course you can put some kind of pad under the hooks which might help, but it would be clumsy if you had to adjust the bands position after getting it in place.
Time heals all
That big gap kept me a bit worried that the container would explode when I took off the clamps so I let the glue dry for 48 hours. I’m not sure the extra time made that big a difference, but a cautious approach seemed like a good idea.
I needn’t have worried. Everything looked good when the clamps were removed. A little glue residue here and there, but no big problems. I did manage to get the worst squeeze-out from the inside down to arms length with a scraper, but no way to get it all. A good thing to think about if you make something tall like this and it has to be nice inside. Luckily mine doesn’t have to be. See Below
Some thoughts about using the table saw cove method
The table saw cove method is pretty good and saves a whole lot of hand planing, but it is pretty dusty and not easy to collect.
If you are making a round container like this you need to match the cove profile with your blade and depending on the size of your saw blade you might have to use more or less staves, which requires also adjusting their width which in turn may require more or less staves. Of course the angle of approach also plays a role in matching your blade to the desire profile.
This was a ‘rough’ project, but if I were doing something nice I would scrape and/or sand out the coves to smooth any rough spots left by the saw blade. When cutting the angled edges I would probably cut outside the line a little and then hand plane or run the edges in the jointer to smooth them down to final dimension to insure perfect glue joints.
If your container like mine is too long for outside rounding on a lathe, you can hand plane the outside to round. However, unless you have the grain on all the staves glued-up in the same direction you will get a lot of tear-out on one of the two staves being planed at the glue joints. The grain also sometimes reverses on a single board further complicating matters. The best idea is to round the boards individually before glue-up. A profile of the outside curve is useful to keep track of planing progress and final accuracy.
I asked my son if he wanted to have wheels mounted so the container would be easy to move and he said no, but I left the bottom high enough to allow for some small wheels that I have on hand in case he should want them later.
I have since delivered the container to my son and he sent me a photo of it in place. See Below
Thanks much for reading. I’m glad to answer any questions you might have.
-- Mike, an American living in Norway.