I haven’t been in the shop since Thursday and even then only for a short time. You might know that I wasn’t happy with my first bucket attempt because the diameter I planned wasn’t happening. I will still finish that first bucket, but I started a new one hoping to come in on target this time.
On Thursday I only had time to make up a bottom for the new ancient bucket, then I started fooling around trying out a new way to get the correct angles on the edges, but this time with a method that would cater to different widths in the stave’s. So at the risk of boring everyone or creating some controversy I will show you what I came up with. First our logo pics of the bucket we are making and the shop made tools we will use to make it with.
A METHOD TO DETERMINE STAVE EDGE ANGLES USING ONLY STRING
Judging from the feedback of my last blog where I attempted to show primitive methods for determining stave widths and edge angles, it was a consensus that my suggested methods which I implied could have been used where probably not valid.
Everyone did seem to agree though that the ancients had string, so I’ve come up with a new theory for how they might have used it to determine edge angles. I thought this method might amuse you if not impress you, but of course I am naively hoping for both.
Step 1. Revised string theory
As you can see in the photo below I have tacked a piece of string to the center point of my bottom circle. I’m using the old bottom. (the ancients had nylon string didn’t they?). Just ignore the radius markings you see. as we won’t be using those. they were part of the old theory.
As you can see, I’ve already place the first stave mock-up in place.
Step 2. calculating the angle for the next stave
I’m using different stave widths for this experiment, and I’m placing the next one again using the string to give me the angle needed.
To do this I had to first put the string at the angle of the first stave, then keep the string in position while moving the first stave away and placing the new stave on top of the string and otherwise lined up with circle as shown in the photo below.
Step 3. Marking the angle to match the prior stave
As shown photo 1 below, I have marked off the angle on the next stave and cut it as in photo 2. It worked.
Step 4. Marking the angle on the other side of the 2nd stave
Again I used the string to mark the other edge and cut then cut it as shown in photos 1and 2 below. I then continued in this way until I had enough to prove the accuracy of my method, as shown in photo 3 below.
MAKING THE NEW BOTTOM
I did this a little differently. I just wanted to show you in the photo below that after planing the bottom boards and jointing them, I taped them together on the back side, which helped to hold them in place while I marked for the dowels. My marks were a little off on the old bottom and I didn’t get my dowels perfectly centered either. The new bottom turned out a lot better with the tape and I took pains to make sure my dowel holes were centered and drilled straight. But I did it all freehand (using my ancient Dewalt cordless drill which is one whole month old).
So that is it for today. Your comments on this method are invited (as long as you don’t swear). I hope you are all enjoying your weekend. I’m back to the shop to work on my bucket tomorrow so I can catch up with Mads. Although I see that Mads is actually making a basket, not a bucket. Buckets always have handles that swing. No matter, it will be made with the authentic lag method, so I’m just having a little fun at Mads expense here. I guess I’m a little jealous of his stylish handle and the long stave’s it’s attached to.
Thanks for reading.
-- Mike, American in Norway