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Blog entry by stefang posted 1280 days ago 1124 reads 2 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

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-- Mike, an American living in Norway.



19 comments so far

View Dennisgrosen's profile

Dennisgrosen

10850 posts in 1719 days


#1 posted 1280 days ago

it realy does make a deasen job ….lol
just kidden you …great job as usual from your side Mike
you hit it spot on with those little rough shaves
compared to what they did in the old days when the work just had to be done
and fast as possiple
and I´m glad to hear and see you made a great plane when the bottomis flat :-)

thank´s for sharing it was a pleasure tofollow you thrugh this toturial serie of plane making :-)
take care
Dennis

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

14617 posts in 2279 days


#2 posted 1280 days ago

Another great blog Mike. Are you going to do one on the cove cutting method for the tabel saw?

-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence

View Jamie Speirs's profile

Jamie Speirs

4096 posts in 1460 days


#3 posted 1280 days ago

Well done, that is really something.
It must feel wonderful.

Jamie

-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

View David Kirtley's profile

David Kirtley

1276 posts in 1601 days


#4 posted 1280 days ago

You really will find many places to use the round sole. It would be more work to resole than to build another one. And you already have the plane to make its hollow mate. There, that makes two new ones to make. :)

-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/

View Tim Dahn's profile

Tim Dahn

1462 posts in 2168 days


#5 posted 1280 days ago

If you do remove the rounded sole and get a new blade, you could keep the current blade and then you would have a scrub plane too.

Great blog Mike, I’m enjoying reading along.

-- Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from poor judgement.

View Dave's profile

Dave

11142 posts in 1443 days


#6 posted 1279 days ago

I’m on the edge of my seat watching and waiting for the outcome.

-- Superdav "No matter where you go - there you are." http://chiselandforge.com

View mafe's profile

mafe

9456 posts in 1693 days


#7 posted 1279 days ago

Hi Mike,
Exelent!
You have done a wonderfful job, not only with the plane, but also with your blog, this has been a big inspiration, and for me a invitation I could not resist.
Thank you so much,
Best of thoughts from the bottom of my heart,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12597 posts in 1938 days


#8 posted 1279 days ago

Thank you guys! I did forget to include installing the wedge pin and making the wedge. I will have to add that to the blog later today.

MADS I guess the next work is the binding lever and the knife. I will of course blog this, but you know a lot more about knife making than I do. My approach will basically be to break the plastic handle off an inexpensive hunting/toll knife (I have several old ones), and glue it between to longish boards and then shape the handle afterward. I intend of course to hollow out a little on the inside of both boards to match the blade and tang profile and epoxy it in. The handle has to be long enough so that it can be held against the body to put maximum leverage on it while cutting the ‘lag’ or bottom groove. Please let me know if think this approach is ok.

The problem with my book on lagging is that there are no instructions about how to make the tools except for the binding lever which has a design and dimensions. That of course makes it more fun because we have to use our own brains and creativity. the bucket work is well documented though, so don’t worry about that.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View mafe's profile

mafe

9456 posts in 1693 days


#9 posted 1279 days ago

Hi Mike,
There are many ways of the knife making.
Yours are one of the easy and fine ways, not the Scandinavian one. But good.
I think for maximum strenghts I would choose the traditional Scandinavian where you drill holés close to each other, and then file out to fit the tang. I think also it should have a bolster of you intend to use the liver force, so the knife will not break out the wood…
I will gladly suply you with the knolage, or we can make two again…
I can make a scandinavian traditional, any you make it the way you propose… Yours are the faster, but only possible throughout the strenghts of the epoxy, and after my time line there were no big supply of epoxy in the middleage… LOL.
What do you think my dear Mike?
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12597 posts in 1938 days


#10 posted 1279 days ago

Thanks Mads. I’m not too worried about making the tools in the old way, but In my book it shows only a short end of the knife, maybe 3cm sticking out from the handle. I’m guessing a short blade will give better control.

If you drill for the tang you would have a long blade, unless of course, you had a tang with a short blade on it. For others this method would probably a necessitate a lot of grinding. That’s the main reason I’m thinking of the glue-up method I mentioned. that way a good part of a longer bladed knife could be buried to leave just the tip.

As for the cut, the book says to first score the cut lines with a sharp knife before using the lag knife. This might prevent crushing the wood fibers.

I’m not sure what you mean about a ‘bolster’. In the book it just shows the knife being used like in the drawing and with arms locked against the upper body and the resulting weight used to produce the leverage needed. Does that sound right to you?

Please let me know what your thoughts are on this. I don’t mind us doing it differently as it will give the others a choice of methods which adds alternatives and flexibility to suit their personal preferences. I also want you to know how much I appreciate your participation and contribution to this project. I hope you are enjoying it as much as I am. It is fun to do this hands on history study. It is such a shame that so many wonderful woodworking skills and products are, for the most part, unknown to the modern world, especially considering the impact that much of this work has had on our various cultures.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12597 posts in 1938 days


#11 posted 1279 days ago

Jamie Thanks and yes it feels good.

David Thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a lot of thought before I start sawing.

Tim Actually the plane blade I showed early on was a scrub plane blade that just happened to be the right radius. I was going to use it for this plane, but I decided I had to show how to grind it and sharpen it, so I took a blade from a cheap no. 4 and used that instead.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View mafe's profile

mafe

9456 posts in 1693 days


#12 posted 1279 days ago

Hi Mike,
I think your way is really good if you have no short blade, this will make a stronger knife.
By bolster I mean like on a chisel, a metal ring if you are going to put much force into it…
Since I’m really low these days perhaps it’s also more clever you just do it your way, I was only thinking of the ‘original way, but it’s not so important since it’s the bucket that are the goal not the tools…
Best thoughts,
Mads

-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.

View stefang's profile

stefang

12597 posts in 1938 days


#13 posted 1279 days ago

Thanks for the advice Mads. I don’t think it would be easy to reinforce the oval shape of the handle with a ring, maybe I can bind it with a wrap of fine steel wire or brass wire instead. That should bring some extra strength. I saw from the photo’s in the book that the author didn’t have any reinforcement, but it surely can’t hurt. By ‘low’ I hope you didn’t mean you weren’t feeling well. If that is the case, I hope you will be able to rest up and feel better soon. I didn’t go to the shop myself today. I probably would have enjoyed it once I started, but sometimes it’s hard to start. I’ll be looking forward to seeing your version of the knife. Meanwhile take good care of yourself.

-- Mike, an American living in Norway.

View rsladdwoodworks's profile

rsladdwoodworks

311 posts in 1773 days


#14 posted 1279 days ago

HAY YOU NEED TO LOOK AT THE BAIT CHARLES NEEL MAKE

-- Robert Laddusaw and no I am not smarter then a fifth grader ( and no I canot spell so if it is a problem don't read it ))

View daltxguy's profile

daltxguy

1373 posts in 2517 days


#15 posted 1278 days ago

I am way behind so I will try to catch up a little bit with the time left this weekend. I was waiting for the part about the pin because I wanted to know if I have something suitable or I need to substitute with wood. I live 120km from any store, so it is not easy just to pop out and get something.
I am changing my choice of wood too since my firewood arrived for next season and I have a choice of some local harder wood ( NZ beech) so will start over from the beginning with the plane.

-- If you can't joint it, bead it!

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