At the end of the last blog, #3 in the series, we had finished gluing up the body and cheeks of the round bottom wooden hand plane we are making. This plane will be used to make the barrel stave’s concave to match the radius of the inside bottom. Here once again is a picture of the ancient bucket (photo 1) we will be crafting with the tools were are making (see photo 2 below).Today’s blog concerns a little throat surgery on the sole of the plane and the glue-up.
THE PLANE SOLE
Step 1. I had a nice piece of white oak laying around that I took a slice off with my band saw. One side is nicely planed and the other side still has the BS blade marks. I plan to use the smooth side of the sole as my glue joint. I have already jointed the bottom of the plane body.
Step 2. In the photo below, I have placed the plane body on the sole. Please note that I have cut the sole a little wider than the plane body with a little under 1/16” proud of both sides.
Step 3 Here I have used some carpet tape to temporarily fix the sole to the plane body for the purpose of marking the throat opening (photo 1). The 2nd photo shows me marking it. In photo 3 you see the results.
Step 4. Now the tricky part. Using the the line traced across the sole (back of throat opening) we will extend that line to the edge of the sole and then mark a 45 degree line on the sole edge starting from the extended line and downwards towards the front of the sole as shown. This line represents an extension of the ramp that the plane iron will rest on all the way through the sole. See photo 1
Don’t be fooled by the vertical line forward of the bottom end of the ramp line shown in the next photo, it will be used as a layout line for an opening to be cut just ahead of the ramp. This opening will be cut at 90 degrees and the resulting hole will make it possible to chisel the 45 degree ramp through to the bottom of the sole.
Step 5 the next two photos show where I have marked a line across the top of the sole which is even with the bottom mark for the ramp, then I’ve drawn another line ahead of that which is a little less than 1/8” wide. The part marked ‘X’ will be cut out. I used my scroll saw for this. If you don’t have a scroll saw, you can cut it out with a jeweler’s saw or a coping saw. But it needs to be accurate, so take your time with it.
Step 6. Cutting the hole out ahead of the ramp. You will of course have to drill a 90 degree starting hole for you saw.
Step 7 Now its time chisel the ramp on through. Here I’ve used the original wedge cut out from the plane body. (next photo). The wedge is carpet taped so that the leading edge of the 45 degree angle is right on the remaining layout line. This wedge is used as a support for your chisel to insure an accurate result.
Step 8. Photo 1 shows the chiseling set-up. Please note that I have a flat piece of wood underneath the sole to prevent breakout. Photo 2 shows the finished ramp after about 40 seconds.
Step 9. Photo 1 shows the sole bottom and photo 2 shows a test fit with the plane iron. Too tight. Back to the scroll saw (photo 3) after carefully marking up a new line in front of the bottom of the ramp to give a little more clearance for the blade. I took this in small increments to sneak up on the right fit which I think is a clearance of a little under 1/16”. And finally (in photo 3) the fit I am looking for.* And photo 4 shows the opening from the top of the sole. If you have a better way to do this do it!
Step 10. Now it’s time to prepare for gluing up the sole to the plane body. As you will see in the series of photos below, I will first carpet tape the sole onto the plane body carefully lining up the ramp in the body with the ramp in the sole. Next I will drill a dowel hole at the very front of the sole and one at the back. these dowels will insure that the sole doesn’t ship during glue-up, a very critical procedure which can save you a lot of grief. After gluing the sole onto the body and banging in the dowels it is again ready for clamps and a natural place to end this blog.
Next time we will discuss 3 subjects: the horn, the back pusher block and the wedge pin. The horn and pusher are optional and can take whatever form you see fit. the plane can be used without them, but not by me! I will also try to show you how to round your plane iron on the grinder, but this may have to be covered in the last blog on building the plane.
There is another way to do the pin and it is shown in Blake’s wooden plane blog http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Blake/blog/7822 . With his method you have to insert the pin before you glue the cheeks onto the body. Too late? Do it my way then.
Thank you following along. I’ve found that doing the blog is a lot harder than making the plane, but I am enjoying it and I hope you will too.
-- Mike, American in Norway








































22 comments so far
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#1 posted 876 days ago
Hi Mike,
Love the little hello in the glue!
You sure make me smile.
Best thoughts,
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
Dennisgrosen
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10851 posts in 1312 days
#2 posted 876 days ago
yes yes another great toturial and picturebook from you Mike :-)
thank´s for taking your time to make all the work with it toshare your knowledge
take care
Dennis
stefang
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9725 posts in 1531 days
#3 posted 876 days ago
Thanks Mads and Dennis. If I were sharing my knowledge, the blog would be a lot shorter,lol. Fortunately I’m sharing mostly someone else’s knowledge and a little of my own just to keep you a wondering where this project will lead to.
-- Mike, American in Norway
daltxguy
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1329 posts in 2111 days
#4 posted 876 days ago
Thanks for this latest post, Mike. Now I am officially behind though I have my wood picked out for the plane, I’ve cleaned up an old plane blade and I have some of my wood planed. It will take me longer than your 3 hours!
At what point did you sneak the pin into the opening? Did I miss that or is that coming up?
Does it have to be a steel pin or can it be wood like I have seen on other planes?
-- If you can't joint it, bead it!
stefang
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9725 posts in 1531 days
#5 posted 876 days ago
Hi Steve, The wedge pin will be in next issue. I put it in early to try out my test sole. You can use wood if you wish. To see how to do that you can click on the link near the end of this blog which will take you to Blake’s wooden plane blog.
I figured that if the steel pins are good enough for the Japanese, they are good enough for me. I just cut off a lag bolt which was 9mm in diameter and I installed it after gluing up the body. I’m sure arguments for wood can be found, but I just want to make this plane as simple as possible so less experienced woodworkers can make one too.
-- Mike, American in Norway
Jamie Speirs
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3719 posts in 1053 days
#6 posted 876 days ago
Mike,
I’m thoroughly enjoying this blog.
You are doing a magnificent job of explaining it and your photos are top notch.
Waiting for next instalment like a kid waiting for Santa. :)
Jamie
-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
TopamaxSurvivor
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13179 posts in 1872 days
#7 posted 875 days ago
WoW!! Mike, you are good at this. Nice work.
-- "some old things are lovely, warm still with life ... of the forgotten men who made them." - D.H. Lawrence
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#8 posted 875 days ago
How many are we that are building on this blog?
I am!
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
stefang
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9725 posts in 1531 days
#9 posted 875 days ago
I’m glad you are enjoying this Jamie, Thanks for the encouragement also to Bob and Mads. Half the fun is doing the blog. Now out to the shop to finish the plane and takes photos for the next installment. and Madsright now it is probably only myself making a plane, as all the others are probably waiting to see if mine works before they start cutting their nice dry wood, lol!
-- Mike, American in Norway
mafe
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8084 posts in 1286 days
#10 posted 875 days ago
Ohhh, no Mike…
Not all of the students are waiting!
I’m done with the plane, just need to round the sole.
Yes the old race horse could not wait… lol,
I’ll blog later what I did, ofcourse I did not follow the rules, I’ve been a bad, bad boy.
Best thoughts,
Mads
-- Mad F, the fanatical rhykenologist and vintage architect. Democraticwoodworking.
David Kirtley
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#11 posted 875 days ago
I know you said that the horn was intended to help you grip. Does it work as well as intended?
How did you mount the horn on the plane? (Or am I getting things out of sequence?)
-- Woodworking shouldn't cost a fortune: http://lowbudgetwoodworker.blogspot.com/
Dennisgrosen
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10851 posts in 1312 days
#12 posted 875 days ago
David :
does a horn help…..well it most depend on what you are used to use when it comes to wooden planes
the inglish style is to make them with out horn
and planes with horn is called German style but is used over the most of europe and Skandinavia
now remeber we talk about where it comes from
I have alot of planes with horn and feel they give me a better control over the plane
the small fronknop´s there is on ironplanes like stanley I don´t like becourse they are
too small for me
Dennis
Jamie Speirs
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3719 posts in 1053 days
#13 posted 875 days ago
Mike,
I remember this song as a boy.
My Sister and I knew the words (yes easy but we were wee) and
must have driven my folks crazy.
Yet they would let us sing it again and again.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yD-ffhvefsw
Jamie
-- Who is the happiest of men? He who values the merits of others, and in their pleasure takes joy, even as though 'twere his own. --Johann Wolfgang von Goethe
stefang
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9725 posts in 1531 days
#14 posted 875 days ago
Steve 2” high is about right and you will trim about 1/4” off that to get rid of the dowels.
Mads You sly devil. Your plane looks just great. I never follow the rules either, so you will NOT have to stand facing the corner and you will get a gold star on your report card for sterling work. I’m only a little mad at you for making it look so easy!
DavidI did the horn for myself because I have arthritis and it makes it easier for me to hold the plane. I hate the Stanley type tote handles because they hurt (me).
Dennis Thanks for that horn round-up.
Jamie Thanks for the song. I hope the only hole in our bucket will be in the top. it was interesting to see the staves with the iron bands. I suppose that’s what happens when a bucket is made with wet wood and then dries out. We want our bucket wood to be dry as possible and our bands to be wet when they’re put on so the staves will swell wih moisture while the bands dry out and shrink. That should give us a tight bucket (theoretically).
Now I’m off to dinner and then I will be posting the next blog, mainly about rounding and sharpening the plane iron and rounding the plane bottom including a test drive!!!
-- Mike, American in Norway
stefang
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9725 posts in 1531 days
#15 posted 875 days ago
David Sorry, I didn’t really answer your question and I just realized it. The horn works perfect for me. The easy way to mount it is to leave enough length on the horn blank to make a round or square tenon. then you can drill a hole in the body with a Forstner bit or a space bit with a diameter of about 1” and just glue it into place. I hope to cover some of this tomorrow to show How I made it. I still have to glue in a push block on the back end and that will be done the same way.
-- Mike, American in Norway
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