I’ve been trying to make a few small changes in my shop. One of the changes is to make my clamps more accessible. I have been needing to do this since I installed my sliding work benches about a year ago. I thought someone might like my clamp rack idea and since I used box joints on it’s construction, I thought those with scroll saws who haven’t done jointing with theirs yet might like to see how I do them on the scroll saw.
So what is this then? Not something for my sweetie. All is revealed in the 2nd photo. Once assembled and glued-up it will be hung on the wall.
Making Box joints
1. I’ve cut the short pieces for the top and bottom of the clamp rack. Here the finger widths are determined by dividing the workpiece into 4 finger widths. An odd number would be better, but I wanted to save time and effort on this utilitarian item.
2. Marking the shoulder width using a piece the same thickness as the workpiece and adding about 1/16” so the fingers will stick out a bit when glued-up.
3. only one end has been marked on the first of the two pieces and then cut.
4. After cutting the first fingers the cut end is used as a pattern for both ends on the other piece. en
5. Then I cut both ends on the piece that was just marked. When that is finished one of ends of the new piece is used to mark the remaining end on the original piece.
So now the remaining end is cut and the two pieces are ready. These pieces will now be used as patterns to mark off the long pieces they attach to. A word of caution here. I always regard each end as unique. In practice this means that each end used as a pattern will be mated with the corresponding piece it was marked from.
6. The long mating pieces are now marked using the short pieces for a pattern. I letter these so that ‘A’ is mated to ‘A’ and so on to insure the joint used as a pattern will be mated to it’s respective long piece end.
7. The long parts are now cut. Proper cutting is critical to get a tight fit. This requires cutting on the correct side of the markings. An example of this is that when marking an opening on the long piece with a tooth from the short piece, the penciled outline will be around the outside of the tooth. The marking is therefore a little wider than the actual tooth. In order to get a tight fit, the lines must be left when cutting around the tooth hole.
Finished so here is a photo of the nice tight fit we are looking for. All of the joints came out like this right off the saw and no adjustments were necessary.
Here is the tool rack hung up and filled with my clamps. The 2nd photo shows the same type of rack, but for long clamps.
I hope everyone will understand the box joint routine with regard to marking up and cutting. Please let me know if you need more info or want anything cleared up. Thanks for reading.
-- Mike, an American living in Norway.