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Hand Chopping A Mortise Tutorial

Blog entry by stefang posted 35 days ago 444 reads 4 times favorited 19 comments Add to Favorites Watch

I described how to hand chop a mortise in a recent comment. Another LJ member asked if I would do a blog with photos on it. I learned this technique some years ago from an article in Woodworker’s Journal by Ian Kirby a master English woodworker who immigrated to the U.S.A. Some time ago. His method is quick and accurate.

I hand chop mortises when I have so few to do that it isn’t worth the effort of setting up my mortiser attachment to my combination woodworking machine and/or when I have real long clumsy pieces that aren’t easy to clamp onto my mortising table. For those who use routers for mortising, you might want to hand chop when you don’t have a bit that is long enough to do the depth of mortise you desire.

Here is what you need to do the job. Please note that I have used a bench chisel with beveled side edges on the blade. A better choice would be a mortise chisel which is thicker and without beveled blade edges. However, they are hard to find in Norway, and expense. The bench chisel works pretty good, but you will just have find it’s limitations through experience.

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The first thing is to select a chisel that will be the same width of your mortise. This is important unless you want to use a lot of time chopping and shaving the sides of the mortise.

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Here I am making the first cut. Note that the flat side of the chisel is facing the middle of the mortise. Keep the chisel vertical. When you strike it the bevel will make the chisel cut in the direction of the mortise center line.

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Here I’m making the 2nd cut from the other end of the mortise. The chisel has been again positioned with the flat side towards the middle.

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This is the result of the first cut. You have to lever he chips out with the chisel’s bevel and the hole edge acting as the fulcrum.

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Repeating the sequence of the first cut gives the results of the 2nd cut. The board has been turned around end for end, Looks a little confusing, sorry.

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After the 3rd cut.

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After the 4th cut. Note that I stopped about 1/16” short of the end lines. This way you don’t ruin the finished edges while levering the chips out.

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Now the mortise ends are being chopped vertical to prepare for the fine chopping to the end lines.The idea is that when you chop to the line there will be so little material left that you won’t have to lever it out and ruin your nice fresh ends.

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Final Chopping or the mortise ends and some cleanup on the bottom and the corners. You will probably notice that there are levering marks on one end of the mortise. I put those there to show what happens if you lever against the end edges(LOL). If you have done a good job of holding your chisel straight while striking it you won’t have to do much on the sides. If you are a little incompetent like me you might have to take a few shavings there as well. This is not a fine woodworking mortise, but it isn’t too bad either. I had to do a fast and dirty job on this today due to a few small catastrophes. My computer router went out late in the day and had to be replaced. and I also wasted a lot of time on a scrollsaw job that I messed up and have to do over again. In other words, just a normal day at my house. I haven’t been scroll sawing lately, so I guess I really need some practice as I have gone from bad to worse.

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Marking up for the tenon.

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The tenon marked out. It’s length is about 1-3/4”, a little under the depth of the mortise.

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Quick freehand cut on the bandsaw (not particularly recommended).

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Trial fit. Not too bad, the tenon needs a little shaving. I like to cut the tenon a little oversize so I can make sure to get a good fit with small adjustments.

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Ok. Here’s the final joint. Ignore the lever marks on the one end of the mortise. YOU are not allowed to do this!

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A proper tenon should have a shoulder on the ends too, but I didn’t bother with it for this blog. Granted this is not Fine Woodworking Magazine quality appearance, but I’ve been doing it for some years. I hand chopped mortises into the wall supports for my timber rack which is pine, and I have been storing quite a lot of weight on it’s 3 shelves for 7 or 8 years and the shelf supports which are tenoned into wall supports are just as solid as when I joined them.

Well, another windy blog. For you old hands who can do it better than me and wonder why I have put so many words and photos in, I just want the novice woodworkers who are interested to get the whole lowdown. I remember when I started out there was always some essential info missing which made me go wrong more than once, so I wanted to cover it as well as I could.

Thanks for reading this. If even only one woodworker gets some good out of it I will consider it worth the effort.

-- Mike, American in Norway


19 comments so far

View notottoman's profile (online now)

notottoman

468 posts in 128 days


posted 35 days ago

A man true to his word. Thanks Stefang.
Great photo’s and post…

-- "Even small steps makes a distance." (Shawn Phillips, musician)

View stefang's profile

stefang

1655 posts in 232 days


posted 35 days ago

My pleasure notottoman. I changed one wrong picture out. It was the results of the 3rd cut. I hope you find it useful.

-- Mike, American in Norway

View HokieMojo's profile

HokieMojo

1142 posts in 626 days


posted 35 days ago

stefang. what about the sides of the mortise. Do you pare them out with a chisel? I assume they need to be smooth but that they won’t be just from chopping right? Just wondering. I’ve never cut a mortise by hand before. thanks for the tutorial.

EDIT: I think i missed it the first time. sounds like paring is not necessary.

View mtkate's profile

mtkate

664 posts in 223 days


posted 35 days ago

Nice demo! I am sure some LJs who have never done this before will benefit from the step by step. I know it was a mystery to me the first time I did it.

View stefang's profile

stefang

1655 posts in 232 days


posted 35 days ago

Hey HokieMojo. If you do it well enough you will not have to shave the sides. This requires keeping the chisel square to the hole. Sometimes while chopping I get a little off square and then the sides need a little paring.

-- Mike, American in Norway

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

17022 posts in 475 days


posted 35 days ago

good blog

-- Jim from Heirloom Woodshop, custom furniture maker, woodworking school, heirloomwoodshop.com

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

20754 posts in 720 days


posted 35 days ago

Thanks, Mike. This was a pretty informative blog. You demonstrated the mortising technique well.

-- With God's help all things are possible- even woodworking. Woodworking is not just a hobby, it is an (expletive deleted) expensive hobby.

View Jim Bertelson's profile

Jim Bertelson

286 posts in 62 days


posted 35 days ago

Thanks Mike,

I have never made a mortise of any kind, so this was very useful. Nice to know you really don’t have to have a machine.

I am chugging away on my benchtop downdraft table. Meaning, you set it on or clamp it to a bench. Down to pegging screw holes, filling some nail holes, and then the finishing. Hopefully will be able to apply finish tomorrow, display Sunday, but don’t hold your breath. Worked about 4 hours, but then my eternal infernal back infirmity gets the best of me and I have to rest. Born with the problem, but age has made it worse. Did get all the holes drilled, most of the screws pegged, and the panels with holes edge routed. This is classified a utilitariian project, and I want it to be sturdy, durable, and flexible. Built from plywood, some leftovers, some oak salvage for spreaders.

Now I am just hanging out baby sitting my bird…............

-- Jim, Anchorage Alaska

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

198 posts in 133 days


posted 35 days ago

The main question I have about this is, how do you gauge the depth of the mortise while chiseling? It looks like you’re going as deep as you want on the first and second cuts, and then the rest are all referenced off those, I just wanted to be sure that’s how you’re doing it.

View Chips's profile

Chips

64 posts in 610 days


posted 35 days ago

Thanks Mike! Got to try this.

-- Make every day the best day of your life. Chips, Mississippi

View nmkidd's profile

nmkidd

386 posts in 71 days


posted 35 days ago

Thanks for the great show and tell.

-- Doug, New Mexico.......the only stupid question is one that is never asked!........don't fix it, if it ain't broke!

View stefang's profile

stefang

1655 posts in 232 days


posted 34 days ago

Thanks for the positive comments all.

Jimi I didn’t pre-plan the depth on this one. I forgot to mention that you can mark the depth on your chisel with a piece of masking tape. Sorry, I was a little frustrated and hurried yesterday and I see now that I missed some details.

-- Mike, American in Norway

View Jimi_C's profile

Jimi_C

198 posts in 133 days


posted 34 days ago

No worries, I think we got the gist of it :)

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

3063 posts in 574 days


posted 30 days ago

Nice job Mike!! Sorry to be late, I was shooting a match in Oregon over the weekend.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

3063 posts in 574 days


posted 30 days ago

BTW, Any one interested in hand mortising can find mortising chisels on ebay. They’re on there all the tiime.

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View stefang's profile

stefang

1655 posts in 232 days


posted 30 days ago

Thanks Bob. Good tip the mortise chisels available on ebay. I see you are active in the shooting world. The Norwegians are very active in this sport. A short time ago we hosted the Norwegian championships here in our little community of 13,000. A Norwegian just won an international title, but I’m not sure which nations were competing as I don’t really follow the sport. They always have the national competition on TV here in Norway. I went shooting with a friend at work once back in 1981 to a competition range. We used rifles they had there. I was amazed at how heavy they were, much heavier than an M1 for example and I found it very uncomfortable. I was raised with 30/30 lever action rifles which I feel a lot more at home with.

-- Mike, American in Norway

View TopamaxSurvivor's profile

TopamaxSurvivor

3063 posts in 574 days


posted 30 days ago

I just shoot old style single shots and black powder. I don’t follow the other sports, too many of them to keep track of:-)

-- Debt is nothing more than the 21st Century's form of slavery.

View dustygirl's profile

dustygirl

767 posts in 626 days


posted 30 days ago

Thank you so much for this blog Stefang.I have been wanting to try doing something like this for awhile now and had no real idea how to get started.Great write up and pictures.

-- Dustygirl..Hastings,Ontario.. How much wood can 1 gal chuck if 1 gal can't cut wood?

View eps's profile

eps

1 post in 48 days


posted 24 days ago

Thanks Mike, I plan to make a pair of bed rails 80” X 6” X 4/4, using hard maple. I need to mortise the ends of the rails so the steel inserts for the hooks will be flush with end of the rails. Because the rails are long I will follow your method to make the mortises. The depth of my mortise is only 1/4” but the sides need to be very square to provide support for the steel inserts.

-- Ed.....nothing is but thinking makes it so.

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