Jet cabinet saw re-hab #25: fence aligned, ZCI fit, etc...

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Blog entry by Mainiac Matt posted 05-10-2013 02:38 AM 2007 reads 0 times favorited 8 comments Add to Favorites Watch
« Part 24: Extention table hooked up, fence mounted. Part 25 of Jet cabinet saw re-hab series Part 26: Calling it done (for now) »

I use a Veritas straightedge and feeler gage to align the fence to the slot… I go for parallel and don’t let the fence open up on the discharge side…

Since I got the saw for a measly $100, I splurged on some goodies… always wanted a Leecraft ZCI. UL-1A fits almost perfectly… just a little sanding and I have a nice snug fit.

these things sure stink when you cut the slot.

I made my first test cuts on the saw ripping 4/4 pine and it cut very smoothly.

Here’s a shot of the router table in the extension wing…

Now I have to decide what to do with the blade gaurd, as it’s in pretty rough shape.

I’m leaning towards using the frame, but replacing the metal gaurds with 1/4” acrylic, cut to the same shape, and rigging up a DC connection to a top plate.

That’s all for tonight…

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

8 comments so far

View DIYaholic's profile


19490 posts in 2551 days

#1 posted 05-10-2013 03:35 AM

Lookin’ good!!!

Overhead DC sounds like the right direction.
I’m thinking overhead boom DC….

Is there an aftermarket riving knife available for this saw? BORK???

The saw is looking good.
You should be very excited to put this through it’s paces…
I know I would be!!!

-- Randy-- I may not be good...but I am slow! If good things come to those who wait.... Why is procrastination a bad thing?

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

7565 posts in 2204 days

#2 posted 05-10-2013 03:47 AM

I may take a crack at fabricating a riving knife for the saw myself some day…. there’s a video out there where a guy did just that, but he obviously had serious metal working skills and tools.

I like the standard style splitter and guard on my old saw well enough…. but I definitely want to rig up DC to the top somehow

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View Handtooler's profile


1493 posts in 2008 days

#3 posted 05-10-2013 03:51 AM

ssnvet, You’ve certainly done an Amirable’s job on that referb! “Pun intended” Absolutely magnificant. Am I misunderstanding something? Are you left handed? As you have your fence positioned on the left side of the blade with the waste being off cut to the right side. As somewhat of an advenced amature woodworker and being right handed I have usually positioned my fence on the right side of the blade with the off cuts being deposited to the left, there are ocassions when it’s necessary to position on the left as you have shown.. Therefore, a serious question arises, I’m deeply considering purchasing the MCLS router table CI extension table, removing the 10” left wing from my Grizzly, G0691, table saw, and installing the 16” router table wing to replace the removed original wing; since the table saw has the long phenoylic extension table already on the right, AM I MAKING A TERRIBLE MISTAKE???? The Grizzly’s dust collection port is on the right under the phenoylic table, but I think I will collect dust from the router via a seperate connection on the left and not have both ports open at the same tim which would reduce efficiency.

-- Russell Pitner Hixson, TN 37343

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

7565 posts in 2204 days

#4 posted 05-10-2013 11:56 AM

I’m right handed and cut 99% of the time with the fence to the right of the blade… I snapped the pic with fence on the left to show how much room I have to work the router table….

The only thing I’m doing that is at all unique is the way I oriented my router table in the wing….

I think your question is a very good one Russel, but I’m not up on that MLCS table…. I’d suggest starting a thread on the power tools forum with the question, as it will likely generate several responses with differing points of view.

I think shop layout and DC issues will play a big part of the decision.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2718 days

#5 posted 05-10-2013 12:43 PM

I tried once what you are considering, putting the router table extension on the left instead of on the right like most setups. It did not work out too great.
With the extension on the left, there is little room between the saw blade and router bit opening. When working with smaller parts, I often leave the blade up for cutting, and the router bit setup for whatever I may be doing there. I know this probably isn’t correct, but it’s what I do. With the extension on the left though, it put things so close that I had to always lower the saw blade to use the router, or lower the router bit to use the saw. This simply did not work for me.
As for being left handed, I am left handed. However, I still normally use me saw fence positioned on the right side of the blade. Because saws are originally designed with right handed people in mind, from my experience, I find it easier to simply get used to using the saw as it’s designed. If I used the fence on the left side of the blade, I would not be able to cut wider material unless I basicallt did a redesign and rebuild of the saw. That seems too much trouble for me. Otherwise, I could cut narrow material left handed and wide material right handed. I think it is best to get used to cutting one way all the time when possible.

Mike, I wish I could help you on the blade guard and splitter situation, but I don’t even use mine. I have two saws, an antique Craftsman (113 series) and a Ridgid 3650. Both are without guards or splitters. If a reasonably priced riving knife was available, I would love to have that. The splitter that came with my Ridgid though was so cumbersome to use that it often presented more danger than using it than not using it.
Again, I know it is not proper to use a table saw without all the safety gear attached, but it is a chance I’ve decided to take myself. I am not recommending that others do the same. I’m simply stating my experience with them. If it were me, on a Jet, I would see if a riving knife was available. They are much safer and can be left on when making non-through cuts.


View PurpLev's profile


8534 posts in 3524 days

#6 posted 05-10-2013 12:57 PM

looking good.

contrary to some beliefs – left handed people don’t necessarily use the TS with the fence on the left side of the blade ;)

I like keeping the left side of the blade free of extensions (beyond the standard 12” or so) as it allows me to stand slightly to the left of the blade and reach beyond the blade on cross cuts without having to reach over the blade.

have you checked BORK (Bolt On Riving Knife) solution for this saw?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Mainiac Matt 's profile

Mainiac Matt

7565 posts in 2204 days

#7 posted 05-10-2013 04:09 PM

I thought that the BORK was getting mixed reviews…. I’ll have to do some more research.

-- Pine is fine, but Oak's no joke!

View William's profile


9949 posts in 2718 days

#8 posted 05-10-2013 11:24 PM

Was the BORK for this particular saw getting mixed reviews? Or the BORK in general?
Everything I’ve read about riving knives, I thought they were a much better option than splitters.
I actually hate the splitter that came with my Ridgid saw. No amount of fine tuning, tightening, adjusting, or even black magic, will keep it performing satisfatorily. I bought my saw second hand and don’t know if someone could have tampered with it somehow. I can’t tell it if they did, but I just developed a hate for factory installed splitters.

All that being said, I am also a firm believer in common sense wood working. I do not want to get into all the available (ahem!) safety possibilities. I do think though that most accidents can be traced back to not setting up cuts and not thinking them through before flipping the switch.
The one and only problem I have ever had on my saw that a splitter would have helped on, mine failed miserable. The wood was about four foot long. Apparently there was some internal stress. It started pinching the splitter. I was still able to move the wood, so I thought it was better to keep it moving slowly while I reached to hit the switch and shut it down. I thought it would be safer than trying to come to a dead halt or to back the wood out of a moving blade. Before I could hit the switch, the splitter started wobbling back and forth from the stress, and the wood kicked back. Luckily I seen this one coming and sidestepped it, letting the wood hit the back side of the shop. It could have been worse though and I stopped using the splitter.
From everything I’ve read and seen about the riving knife though, I think it would work better and I’d be willing to try it if one was made reasonable priced for my saw.

Maybe I need to try and come up with a way to make my own!


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