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#1 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC

Wood Table Gas Tool Machine


Font Gas Art Wood Rectangle


Wood Amber Orange Flooring Floor


I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off

Wood Paint Gas Tints and shades Concrete


Motor vehicle Casting Wood Gas Machine


upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
 

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#2 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.


missed this pic….

notice that they had been running the saw with only one belt :^O

Trunnions are fairly beefy.

The tilt and raising action is very stiff…. but I'm hoping it's really all due to the dust packed into every nook and cranny.
 

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#3 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Congrats on your score. Sounds like a thorough cleaning and greasing etc. and you will be pretty much ready to go!!

I am not familiar with other Jet tools but their table saws seem to be a solid well built piece of machinery.
 

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#4 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Great saw should last you for a very long time enjoy it my friend.
You made a great buy.
Thanks for posting
 

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#5 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Looks like it will be a fine saw after you get through with it.

It's amazing what some people will do to a piece of equipment.

The angle and height controls should be fine once they've been cleaned and lubricated.

Lee
 

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#6 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Sweet! Really a single C-note for it. This is going to be good…I look forward to installments.
 

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#7 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
If any body else ever gets into one of these old Jets (CTS or CTAS).... you'll soon discover that they are no longer supported for parts and service….

But… the early model JTAS saws are supported, and I learned from another LJ, that some of the parts are interchangeable.

Fortunately for me, the lock knob for the control wheels is one of those parts.
 

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#8 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Great find!
 

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#9 ·
a new cener piece for the shop..... needs a little TLC

I posted about my good fortune scoring this early 80's Jet CTAS10 with Biesemeyer fence and 50" table….

Here she is…. just needs a little TLC







I hit the top with course steel wool to get the flakey red rust off





upon taking things apart I have these observations…

The Biesemeyer fence is really rugged…. tube is straight as and arrow, even after some rough handling, and the 'L' brackets are really rugged… must be 1/4" angle.

Fortunately, the arbor bearings appear to be nice and tight….as I can't get any wiggle on the arbor at all.

Top is flat as a pancake

I was surprised to see this old saw came with an angle plate and DC hook up.

We fired up the motor at work, b4 I brought her home…. so at least I know it runs.

The top….. well…. that's why i only paid $100…. so I'll be giving Evapo-rust a try and see if it lives up to it's reputation.

The saw was used in the corrugated shop to cut built up corrugated blocks…. and it was not hooked up to DC ….. so the cab was packed full of clumpy shredded paper dust….. did I say packed full? I mean packed FULL.

Even the blade is sharp and appears to be a decent one.

So follow along if you want to laugh at my travails….

I'm very psyched, as I never thought I would be able to afford a 3 HP cabinet saw…. but with some sweat equity, I will hopefully make this saw the center piece of my shop.
Yes that looks like the same saw for sure so I will be watching intently to see your progress. I have been a lurker for the last 2 years so I need a couple of posts before it will allow me to message you, but I will as soon as I can.
 

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#10 ·
mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in

So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…

1. submerge part
2. for large parts, lay paper towels or rags on top and saturate, then cover with plastic to avoid evaporation.

It seems that many of the posts by guys going with option 2 result with odd stains as the products of chelation (carbon bonded to iron??) are deposted in certain areas more than others…..

So I set off on a hunt through the house, basement, attic and barn to find a tub large enough for the 27" x 8" extention tables…. (we only have umpteen hundred of these things half full of junk in various locations)... NO JOY!!!

But then a trip to the kids toy closet….. what's that I see…. an jumbo sized bin used to store a whole lot of Barbie Dolls…... BINGO!!!!

I dumped ~2/3 a gallon and put the first ext. wing in upside down, resting on some small plastic checkers…..

Here's the set up…..



putting the top back on to avoid evaporation…..and off two watch a movie….



Three hours later…. WOW!

Spray off with garden hose…. wipe with paper towels…. spray again…. dry and then spray with WD40 to prevent flash rust….

Too late to get pic of finished product up…. so I'll keep you in suspense untill tonight.
 

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#11 ·
mover over Barbie.... Evapo-rust is movin' in

So there's two approaches for Evapo-rust…

1. submerge part
2. for large parts, lay paper towels or rags on top and saturate, then cover with plastic to avoid evaporation.

It seems that many of the posts by guys going with option 2 result with odd stains as the products of chelation (carbon bonded to iron??) are deposted in certain areas more than others…..

So I set off on a hunt through the house, basement, attic and barn to find a tub large enough for the 27" x 8" extention tables…. (we only have umpteen hundred of these things half full of junk in various locations)... NO JOY!!!

But then a trip to the kids toy closet….. what's that I see…. an jumbo sized bin used to store a whole lot of Barbie Dolls…... BINGO!!!!

I dumped ~2/3 a gallon and put the first ext. wing in upside down, resting on some small plastic checkers…..

Here's the set up…..



putting the top back on to avoid evaporation…..and off two watch a movie….



Three hours later…. WOW!

Spray off with garden hose…. wipe with paper towels…. spray again…. dry and then spray with WD40 to prevent flash rust….

Too late to get pic of finished product up…. so I'll keep you in suspense untill tonight.
thats a lot of liquid!

for larger things I ended up going with electrolysis which is a cheaper alternative - I use evaporust for small parts though.

but - whatever works is what counts. looking forward to seeing this come together
 

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#16 ·
first wing cleaned up

before



and after



the weird thing about this Evapo-rust stuff… is that no matter how much you wipe it clean, it still turns a white paper towel black.

Hmmmmm….

I was planning to hit the table with my jitter bug sander and mineral spirits when all done…. perhaps that will take it down to bare metal again…..

Not sure if you can tell by the photo, but the table has some deep scratches in it…. I suspect someone cut lumber with exposed nails…. more than once.

second wing is in the juice now….
 

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#17 ·
first wing cleaned up

before



and after



the weird thing about this Evapo-rust stuff… is that no matter how much you wipe it clean, it still turns a white paper towel black.

Hmmmmm….

I was planning to hit the table with my jitter bug sander and mineral spirits when all done…. perhaps that will take it down to bare metal again…..

Not sure if you can tell by the photo, but the table has some deep scratches in it…. I suspect someone cut lumber with exposed nails…. more than once.

second wing is in the juice now….
In the before picture, the one on the right you can see the scratch. Really should not effect the overall operation or accuracy of the saw. I'm sure it bugs ya, but someday it will just melt away from your mind and you will hardly notice anymore.
 

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#22 ·
second wing cleaned up...

not to shabby….

Rectangle Flooring Wood Floor Composite material


I took a putty knife to the blotches on the first one and they scraped right off. I'm guessing that the rust was thicker there and because I only soaked them for ~3 hrs, it wasn't enough time to react through it all in those areas.

plan is to jitterbug them with a splash of mineral spirits

and then hit them with a greenie and barkeepers friend (don't tell my wife please)

then some paste wax and hopefully call it done.

I'm at a loss for a container large enough for the main top….. may build a shallow tray out of 1×4 and particle board and line it with a garbage bag.
 

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#23 ·
second wing cleaned up...

not to shabby….

Rectangle Flooring Wood Floor Composite material


I took a putty knife to the blotches on the first one and they scraped right off. I'm guessing that the rust was thicker there and because I only soaked them for ~3 hrs, it wasn't enough time to react through it all in those areas.

plan is to jitterbug them with a splash of mineral spirits

and then hit them with a greenie and barkeepers friend (don't tell my wife please)

then some paste wax and hopefully call it done.

I'm at a loss for a container large enough for the main top….. may build a shallow tray out of 1×4 and particle board and line it with a garbage bag.
For the top, use a heavy (contractor) garbage bag.. some of them are 7 mils thick.
 

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#25 ·
more progress on the top...

Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.

Wood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Gas


I think I'm done with the rust removal untill after I reassemble the top… which will be a while.

Next up is to do a thorough cleaning of the cabinet, and see what conditon the arbor bearings are in, and whether or not I can free up the tilt and blade height mechanisms.

I decided to pick up a Leecraft phenolic ZCI…. here it is next to the old insert that was on the saw.

I suspect I'll be needing to mill a slot for the splitter…. Unless I decide to install a Shark Gaurd.

Sports equipment Font Wood Material property Bumper


not exactly setting the world on fire here…. but I'm happy to be making progress of some sort.
 

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#26 ·
more progress on the top...

Doggy pool wasn't big enough to submurge the main section of the top, so I had to sacrifice some old t-shirts to the cause and use the wet cloth soak method…. didn't work out quite as well as submerging the extension wings did…. but not too bad.

Wood Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive exterior Gas


I think I'm done with the rust removal untill after I reassemble the top… which will be a while.

Next up is to do a thorough cleaning of the cabinet, and see what conditon the arbor bearings are in, and whether or not I can free up the tilt and blade height mechanisms.

I decided to pick up a Leecraft phenolic ZCI…. here it is next to the old insert that was on the saw.

I suspect I'll be needing to mill a slot for the splitter…. Unless I decide to install a Shark Gaurd.

Sports equipment Font Wood Material property Bumper


not exactly setting the world on fire here…. but I'm happy to be making progress of some sort.
I think this is in the wrong blog series…
 

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#29 ·
Blog / project resurrection....

I finally knocked out several other (non-woodworking) projects and got back into my TS last night.

Since I have to move it from the barn to the basement all by my lonesome self, I'm disassembling it into the major sub-assemblies. I have the cast iron table and extensions cleaned up and moved down. So last night I took down the motor and cleaned it up…. YUK!

This saw was last used in our box shop at work to cut blocks from glued up thicknesses of cardboard and it was NOT hooked up to DC. So they would scoop out the cabinet when the fluffy waste started burping out top :^O

So the junction box and starting coil shroud were both packed full of the stuff, and quite a bit was in the fan housing as well. But it's a sealed industrial style motor and spins freely, so I'm not concerned about it getting into the windings. I filled a Wal-Mart bag 1/3 full with the fluffy shreaded cardboard by the time I was done.

Can you say ACHOOO! I'm not supposed to start sneezing untill fall alergies kick in :^(

I couldn't break free the set screw on the three groove sheave, so I poured rust remover in a metal cookie tray, and stood the motor on the end of the sheave, resting on some 1x strips across the top of the tray. Two hours later the sheave cleaned up with minimal effort.

I didn't take any b4 pics….. but I'll try to shoot some after ones tonight.

Now my big decission….

To remove the trunnion assembly and haul it down in pieces, or try to rig the cabinet down the bulkhead with the trunnions still in it, using a tractor bucket and chains. I pulled this off with a 400 lb. bench top milling machine still in it's crate once…... but it wasn't fun.

Any body out there pull the trunnions off of a cabinet saw?

does the assembly stay together when you remove it? Or do the trunnions come out of the trunnion bracket ways as soon as they are unbolted and lifted?

If I had my druthers, I wouldn't pull it apart.
 
#45 ·
Amazing what you notice when you clean something

I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(

Font Auto part Parallel Circle Slope


Not a major issue as I rarely tilt the blade, but I think cranking the mechanism untill the stop screw hits the ledge helps take out the backlash and better locks the mechanism in place. Hmmmmmmm… I'll have to think on this one.
 

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#46 ·
Amazing what you notice when you clean something

I discovered that the front arbor bracket casting has a small area broken off the little bump out ledge (see red arrow) where the 90 deg. stop screw (labelled C & D) should hit it. :^(

Font Auto part Parallel Circle Slope


Not a major issue as I rarely tilt the blade, but I think cranking the mechanism untill the stop screw hits the ledge helps take out the backlash and better locks the mechanism in place. Hmmmmmmm… I'll have to think on this one.
Fill the area with JB Weld and file back into shape????
 

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#51 ·
Disassembled the arbor

Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.

The Spanner Nut was a peculiar piece of hardware that didn't match up with any of the various spanner wrenches they had in their chest. So he put a torch to it and then it broke free with just a tap on a drift pin held at an angle. New mechanic, who I had never met before…very nice guy…. so I made a new friend in the process.

Wood Revolver Tool Gas Hand tool


One bearing is "OK" the other is definitely "crunchy".

I've found VXB bearings to be economical and easy to use…. so I broke the bank and ordered them at $2.35/ea :^) This is a pretty common size bearing and I hate to spend more on shipping than product, so I ordered a few extras for my next nutty professor project.

Progress = success
 

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#52 ·
Disassembled the arbor

Took the entire arbor bracket assy into work today and one of our maintenance mechanics helped me take it apart on the press.

The Spanner Nut was a peculiar piece of hardware that didn't match up with any of the various spanner wrenches they had in their chest. So he put a torch to it and then it broke free with just a tap on a drift pin held at an angle. New mechanic, who I had never met before…very nice guy…. so I made a new friend in the process.

Wood Revolver Tool Gas Hand tool


One bearing is "OK" the other is definitely "crunchy".

I've found VXB bearings to be economical and easy to use…. so I broke the bank and ordered them at $2.35/ea :^) This is a pretty common size bearing and I hate to spend more on shipping than product, so I ordered a few extras for my next nutty professor project.

Progress = success
Bingo…...the crunchy bearings gotta go…..keep it going….
 

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#65 ·
Working on the Fence

Guide tube is rusty but straight

Table Wood Desk Floor Flooring


Evaporust to the rescue

Wood Table Gas Bumper Composite material


Once again…. after cleaning things up, I discover little "gems"

The Cam foot is bent… an has been leaving indents in the guide tube.

Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Bumper Gas

Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Auto part Household hardware


I pulled a Biesemyer manual off the web… and this is what it's supposed to look like…

Monochrome photography Parallel Monochrome Wood Metal
 

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#66 ·
Working on the Fence

Guide tube is rusty but straight

Table Wood Desk Floor Flooring


Evaporust to the rescue

Wood Table Gas Bumper Composite material


Once again…. after cleaning things up, I discover little "gems"

The Cam foot is bent… an has been leaving indents in the guide tube.

Automotive tire Wood Motor vehicle Bumper Gas

Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Auto part Household hardware


I pulled a Biesemyer manual off the web… and this is what it's supposed to look like…

Monochrome photography Parallel Monochrome Wood Metal
The facing on the fence is pretty rough… so it's coming off and geting replaced…..

peel off the laminate facing to reveal the hex head self tapping sheet metal screws

Tire Bicycle Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire Motor vehicle


ready for a replacement…

Wood Tool Workbench Gas Engineering
 

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#73 ·
2 steps forward 1 step back

Swapped out the damaged bearing and got the arbor assy back together tonight.

Then I mounted the arbor and the motor and lined up the pulleys. But in the process of tightening up the bolt that locks the motor in position on its pivot, I stripped the threads. Steel Bolt and cast motor bracket…. you guess which one won that battle.

It's a 7/16" fine thread, with plenty of thickness around it, so I'm hoping I can drill out the motor bracket by hand, without removing it, and then tap it to 1/2" UNC.

The motor slipped in my hands while mounting it, and The starting capacitor cover was dented. I sure hope the cap isn't damaged, as that will cos me a pretty penny to have it replaced.
 
#84 ·
ways and arbor are ready

(I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)

the ways cleaned up pretty well… a bit discolored but smooth….

I'm told that it's better off to NOT lubricate the ways, as they will become a dust magnet. Any thoughts? Maybe wax?

Helmet Wood Auto part Metal Automotive wheel system


arbor is back together turning smooth with no slop… I'm anxious to measure the run out.

HF link belts put on…

Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Suspension Gas


I'm 4 links shy of putting together a third belt :^(
 

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#85 ·
ways and arbor are ready

(I posted this as a response to an earlier entry by mistake, and am moving it here as a new entry… sorry if you double read)

the ways cleaned up pretty well… a bit discolored but smooth….

I'm told that it's better off to NOT lubricate the ways, as they will become a dust magnet. Any thoughts? Maybe wax?

Helmet Wood Auto part Metal Automotive wheel system


arbor is back together turning smooth with no slop… I'm anxious to measure the run out.

HF link belts put on…

Automotive tire Vehicle brake Motor vehicle Suspension Gas


I'm 4 links shy of putting together a third belt :^(
What about a "Dry Lubricant"...
 

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#90 ·
stripped threads repaired & wings sanded

Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.

Tire Automotive tire Bicycle tire Bicycle handlebar Bicycle fork


Automotive lighting Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior Auto part


Of course, I forgot to stop by the hardware store on my way home from work Friday…. So I don't have a 1/2-13×3/4 bolt.

Next I brought in and cleaned up the Fence rails…. and I must say that Biesemeyer certainly didn't skimp out on the steel on these beastly boys! They are heavy.

Then I wired up the motor and put knock out plugs in some of the extra holes in the cabinet.

Finally I sanded and scrubbed the cast wings…

Wood Gas Flooring Automotive exterior Machine


They look great…. untill you get close up :^(

Brown Road surface Wood Asphalt Grey


Oh well, beggars can't be choosers.

Then I waxed the table and wings to preserve my efforts.

And last of all, I scrounged through my bins of wiring stuff to see if I had the right kind of plug to hook up the saw…. and I don't

Home Depot here I come.
 

Attachments

#91 ·
stripped threads repaired & wings sanded

Got a couple hours in on the project today….. started by breaking out my 7 amp DeWalt and drilled and then hand tapped new threads on the motor mount lock bolt.

Tire Automotive tire Bicycle tire Bicycle handlebar Bicycle fork


Automotive lighting Gas Tints and shades Automotive exterior Auto part


Of course, I forgot to stop by the hardware store on my way home from work Friday…. So I don't have a 1/2-13×3/4 bolt.

Next I brought in and cleaned up the Fence rails…. and I must say that Biesemeyer certainly didn't skimp out on the steel on these beastly boys! They are heavy.

Then I wired up the motor and put knock out plugs in some of the extra holes in the cabinet.

Finally I sanded and scrubbed the cast wings…

Wood Gas Flooring Automotive exterior Machine


They look great…. untill you get close up :^(

Brown Road surface Wood Asphalt Grey


Oh well, beggars can't be choosers.

Then I waxed the table and wings to preserve my efforts.

And last of all, I scrounged through my bins of wiring stuff to see if I had the right kind of plug to hook up the saw…. and I don't

Home Depot here I come.
Looks like you are getting closer to completion
 

Attachments

#98 ·
progress with wiring and misc. pics

Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….

220v 15amp outlet (dedicated circuit wired with 12-2 Romex)

Wood Flash memory Technology Computer data storage Usb flash drive


Dust Collector motor starter relocated…

Audio equipment Electricity Gas Machine Electrical wiring


better than where it used to be…

Gas Camera accessory Tints and shades Machine Electric blue
 

Attachments

#99 ·
progress with wiring and misc. pics

Randy wants pics… so here they are…. not overly exciting at this phase of the game….

220v 15amp outlet (dedicated circuit wired with 12-2 Romex)

Wood Flash memory Technology Computer data storage Usb flash drive


Dust Collector motor starter relocated…

Audio equipment Electricity Gas Machine Electrical wiring


better than where it used to be…

Gas Camera accessory Tints and shades Machine Electric blue
These are by request for Phil, who has the same saw…

The door has two hooks at the bottom and a rotating cam latch on top

Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Vehicle Font Gas


Liquid Fluid Rectangle Automotive lighting Gas
 

Attachments

#108 ·
Time to think about the extension table

The original table is in pretty rough shape…

Wood Rectangle Gas Font Handwriting


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Gas Hardwood


The laminated surface on the top is pealing off in several places and the far end of the frame broke and has a shoddy repair, which included adding some angle iron to re-inforce the legs.

I initially thought I would cut off the top and save the frame and replace the top with a piece of melamine I have in my stash…. But cutting off the top and repairing the end sounds like more work than just making a new frame.

The good news is that the legs and even the hardware are serviceable.

So I think I'm going to make up a new frame with pocket hole construction and then put the melamine top on it. This way I can space the intermediate framing members to better accomodate the Rocker router plate I have.

Time to do my favorite gig…. design and model the new top in SolidWorks :^)
 

Attachments

#109 ·
Time to think about the extension table

The original table is in pretty rough shape…

Wood Rectangle Gas Font Handwriting


Wood Rectangle Wood stain Gas Hardwood


The laminated surface on the top is pealing off in several places and the far end of the frame broke and has a shoddy repair, which included adding some angle iron to re-inforce the legs.

I initially thought I would cut off the top and save the frame and replace the top with a piece of melamine I have in my stash…. But cutting off the top and repairing the end sounds like more work than just making a new frame.

The good news is that the legs and even the hardware are serviceable.

So I think I'm going to make up a new frame with pocket hole construction and then put the melamine top on it. This way I can space the intermediate framing members to better accomodate the Rocker router plate I have.

Time to do my favorite gig…. design and model the new top in SolidWorks :^)
Add'l good news… I should be getting a package from HF tomorrow…..

apparently the link belt is not back ordered after all.
 

Attachments

#114 ·
bummin about humming

So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.

I also noticed that one of the bearings on the arbor is running warm. So I yanked the arbor again and attempted to loosen up the bearing. But since the bearing is press fit, both into the arbor bracket casting and onto the arbor shaft, this isn't as easy as simply loosening a nut.

After loosening the retaining nut, I gave the arbor a couple taps with a mallet, in an effort to relieve some pressure on the bearing. It seemed to spin just a tad more freely, but who knows…. may have done nothing at all.

Upon reassembly, I realize that the noise is actually more likely coming from the link belts….. (which are supposed to reduce vibration, not cause it). I had been uncertain about which way to mount the green link belts, as they don't have an arrow on them, like the red ones are reported to have…. but I had found this graphic on the web… and decided to follow it.

Rectangle Font Circle Pattern Number


But now I realize that this makes the drive pulley tend to push the tabs over backwards…. and though it looks like it would produce a better grip this way, I started wondering if it will run more quietly the other way. And come to think of it, when I put this same HF link belt on my jointer years ago, I now recall that I put it on one way, and then the other, and simply went with the way that was more quite. So I check the jointer…. and yup, it's the other way.

So I reversed the belts and put it all back together.

Now to get my arbor bracket off, I have to push the roll pin that secures the worm gear on the crank shaft, so I can pivot the bracket further to the rear and clear the ways. When re-installing the roll pin, the little monster went in 3/4 of the way, b4 I realize that the hole is not drilled plum, that I'm going in the out, and the exit hole in the worm gear doesn't line up…. AND…. that roll pin is not coming back out with vise grips :^(

Dremmel to the rescue…. I cut the last 1/8" of the pin flush and called it good, figuring that it was bound up in there so tight that the worm gear would never slip.

Bad news…. taking this apart again is going to be a major PITA

Good news…. between reversing the belts and playing with the arbor bearing, the vibration is gone.
 

Attachments

#115 ·
bummin about humming

So the saw is making a weird vibration/humming noise, but when I take off the belts and run just the motor it's amazingly smooth and quiet… even the starting surge is barely perceptible.

I also noticed that one of the bearings on the arbor is running warm. So I yanked the arbor again and attempted to loosen up the bearing. But since the bearing is press fit, both into the arbor bracket casting and onto the arbor shaft, this isn't as easy as simply loosening a nut.

After loosening the retaining nut, I gave the arbor a couple taps with a mallet, in an effort to relieve some pressure on the bearing. It seemed to spin just a tad more freely, but who knows…. may have done nothing at all.

Upon reassembly, I realize that the noise is actually more likely coming from the link belts….. (which are supposed to reduce vibration, not cause it). I had been uncertain about which way to mount the green link belts, as they don't have an arrow on them, like the red ones are reported to have…. but I had found this graphic on the web… and decided to follow it.

Rectangle Font Circle Pattern Number


But now I realize that this makes the drive pulley tend to push the tabs over backwards…. and though it looks like it would produce a better grip this way, I started wondering if it will run more quietly the other way. And come to think of it, when I put this same HF link belt on my jointer years ago, I now recall that I put it on one way, and then the other, and simply went with the way that was more quite. So I check the jointer…. and yup, it's the other way.

So I reversed the belts and put it all back together.

Now to get my arbor bracket off, I have to push the roll pin that secures the worm gear on the crank shaft, so I can pivot the bracket further to the rear and clear the ways. When re-installing the roll pin, the little monster went in 3/4 of the way, b4 I realize that the hole is not drilled plum, that I'm going in the out, and the exit hole in the worm gear doesn't line up…. AND…. that roll pin is not coming back out with vise grips :^(

Dremmel to the rescue…. I cut the last 1/8" of the pin flush and called it good, figuring that it was bound up in there so tight that the worm gear would never slip.

Bad news…. taking this apart again is going to be a major PITA

Good news…. between reversing the belts and playing with the arbor bearing, the vibration is gone.
this pic shows where the offending roll pin is located

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Vehicle brake Gas Rim


the belts are shown mounted in the "quiet" direction… which is how I first had them on, b4 I consulted the inter web :^(
 

Attachments

#120 ·
Wings mounted... ready for takeoff

I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"

Wood Machine tool Lathe Gas Thickness planer


Then I put on the wings and found that both sides were "drooping" so I had to shim them to get them coplanar with the table. I used clamps and blocks to mount them flush and I'm very happy with the results.

Next task was to square the blade to the table and check the arbor runout. I couldn't get my dial indicator to reach down in to read directly off the arbor, so I mounted a rip blade and ran off of that…

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Gas


I was pleased to see that even measuring off the blade at point ~7" dia. I was only getting +/- 0.0015", so I'm anticipating some really smooth cuts.

Barometer Motor vehicle Gauge Gas Measuring instrument

Scale Motor vehicle Gauge Barometer Measuring instrument


I started to mount the fence 'L' rails, and found the stock I'll need to make a new extension table frame.

I also found a slab of melamine large enough for the extension table…. So I'll take that into work tomorrow and look for an opportunity to stay late so I can get on the CNC router, to cut my router plate and fence cutouts.
 

Attachments

#121 ·
Wings mounted... ready for takeoff

I mounted and alligned the table today… I took a good long time using a combinatin square and feller gauges and got the blade parallel to the miter slot within ~.002"

Wood Machine tool Lathe Gas Thickness planer


Then I put on the wings and found that both sides were "drooping" so I had to shim them to get them coplanar with the table. I used clamps and blocks to mount them flush and I'm very happy with the results.

Next task was to square the blade to the table and check the arbor runout. I couldn't get my dial indicator to reach down in to read directly off the arbor, so I mounted a rip blade and ran off of that…

Wood Flooring Floor Hardwood Gas


I was pleased to see that even measuring off the blade at point ~7" dia. I was only getting +/- 0.0015", so I'm anticipating some really smooth cuts.

Barometer Motor vehicle Gauge Gas Measuring instrument

Scale Motor vehicle Gauge Barometer Measuring instrument


I started to mount the fence 'L' rails, and found the stock I'll need to make a new extension table frame.

I also found a slab of melamine large enough for the extension table…. So I'll take that into work tomorrow and look for an opportunity to stay late so I can get on the CNC router, to cut my router plate and fence cutouts.
Beautiful refurbish.
Looking real nice.
 

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